Pretty villages and food foraging in Occitania

Artists and visitors are inspired by the views from Cordes-sur-Ciel. 

My sister has come up with the perfect idea for a little sisterly getaway. So one recent weekend, we head to the heart of the Occitainie region to learn to forage and cook vegan cuisine. Our destination is the achingly pretty village of Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val. But before we settle in for the night at our bed & breakfast, we head a bit further down the road to the absurdly lovely village of Cordes-sur-Ciel. 

Stone and sky are some of the charms of Cordes-sur-Ciel.

Cordes has been on my must-visit list for a long time. This Gothic-style town is one of the oldest bastides in Occitania. Its name, Cordes-sur-Ciel, translates to "ropes on the sky." The village is perched atop the Puech de Mordagne ridge, and although the views from Cordes are fantastic, the most iconic views of the village would be from a neighboring hill. In the right weather, Cordes seems to float above the clouds. 

This charming vegetarian restaurant, Sur les Pavés in
Cordes-sur-Ciel, offers a delicious lunch assortment.

I've made a lunch reservation at a little vegetarian café, Sur les Pavés, where, apparently, time has stood still since around 1972. As we admire the eclectic décor, and ponder our lunch choices, the owner/chef comes by to say bonjour and take our drink order. We are delighted to discover that the five dishes listed on the menu board aren't choices: Our lunch will include all of them. Yummy! 

The streets of Cordes-sur-Ciel are quiet on this April afternoon. 

Cordes-sur-Ciel has a rich heritage, which I'll skip for this post. I am determined to return soon and explore as many of the 22 villages of the Cordais and Causse area with my husband. If we don't get there before summer, I'll aim for autumn, after the tourists depart and the leaves start to turn. Maybe we'll even luck out and get to see the village floating in the sky.

After lunch, my sister and I head to Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val, our home and culinary classroom for the weekend. We're the only guests staying at the lovely chambre d'hôte Le Cheval Blanc. We're greeted by our host who shows us to a spacious room that oozes Old World charm. He suggests we take advantage of the break in the weather and explore the village before dinner. He tells us to be sure to look up, as there are lots of gargoyles hanging about. (Unfortunately, we spot not a one.)

This carving above a door in Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val
gave la Maison de l'Amour its name.

Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val has long been a popular village with tourists, but with the 2014 food porn film, "The Hundred Foot Journey," the town has become a culinary destination. The movie's plot involves a family of immigrants from India who establish a restaurant across the street from an upscale establishment run by an uptight Helen Mirren. Comedy, food, and romance ensue.

This medieval-style garden was created in 2009 in Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val.

The story of how our hosts, Peter and Nathalie, came to Saint-Antonin is reminiscent of the film's story. According to Peter, Nathalie's bike broke down a few kilometers outside of the village. They walked to Saint-Antonin, fell in love with the place, and eventually opened Le Cheval Blanc. I don't watch British television, but several friends here in France are acquainted with Peter and Nathalie through a TV series that features them from time to time. In addition to a B&B, Le Cheval Blanc is a restaurant, cooking school, and purveyor of bike holidays.

(An aside: Peter bought a car from dear friends of ours. The distance from Saint-Antonin to our friends' village is about 150 kilometers. Peter rode his bike to pick up the car. As the Brits say: Crikey!)

Auberge du Lion d'Or is an 18th century inn
in Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val.

Following the route suggested on a tourist map, my sister and I manage to see all the village highlights in about two hours. We return to our hotel in time for dinner — an incredible vegan meal adorned with edible flowers. 

The scene above the entry to the 19th-century Neo-Gothic
church in Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val catches my eye.

Saturday morning, after helping ourselves to several cups of coffee and enjoying another delicious meal prepared by Nathalie, we're off to the countryside to learn about foraging for food. Our guide is Stephane, botanist-extraordinaire. We roam through the fields collecting various leaves and flowers, which we'll cook with  later. I almost immediately forget much of what Stephane tells us, but a few days after getting home, I receive an email with photos and plant descriptions. One tip that I do remember: If I'm going to forage, I should invest in a good plant book. Also, just because a plant looks edible, it doesn't mean it is.

This vine-covered bench is located in a garden near
Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val.

Our menu will depend on what we're able to forage and today's haul is rich in stinging nettles. I learn why the plant has that name. (Here's another tip: Wear gloves while foraging. My fingers hurt like hell for a full day.) Later, back at Le Cheval Blanc, Nathalie guides us as we turn nettles into delicious soup, pesto, and even cake. 

The rain holds off until after we forage for our Le Cheval Blanc
cooking workshop in Saint-Antonin Noble-Val.

Stephane, our French plant guru, guides us
through the Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val countryside. 

My sister's vegan pizza is a delicious hit at our Le Cheval
Blanc cooking workshop in Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val.

The pea fritters take some concentration at our Le Cheval
Blanc cooking workshop in Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val.

Pretty villages, good food, great company. I'd call this weekend another epic adventure with ma sœur préférée et meilleure amie.

Be charmed by Lauzerte's art, views, and sweet wine

Written and photographed by Mimi Beck Knudsen

This post originally appeared on the Places & Faces blog for The Local Buzz.

A cannon in Lauzerte's barbican reminds us that this esplanade was built for
the defense of the town.

Our recent day trip to the Tarn-et-Garonne, included a stop in the village of Lauzerte, one of France's Plus Beaux Villages. The hilltop town was built in the late 12th century at the bequest of the count of Toulouse. The count had received the hill as a gift on which to build a castelnau — a city protected by a castle. For 500 years, Lauzerte served as a defensive stronghold, a center of trade, and a regional court of appeal. Today it is known for its artisans, its views, and its bounty of fruits, particularly Chasselas grapes and Quercy melons.

Steep streets in Lauzerte lead to the top of this charming village in the
Tarn-et-Garonne department.

This house with a blue door can be found in Lauzerte.

This cat seems to blend in with the sandstone buildings in Lauzerte.

The Church of the Carmelites stands at the foot of the village of Lauzerte.

We park in the lower part of town, about halfway up the hill and wind our way on foot to the top of the village. It's a quiet weekday afternoon and we have les rues nearly to ourselves. The houses are made of sandstone and many are Gothic or Renaissance style. Somewhat out of breath, we stop to admire the views from La Barbacane, described in a poem by Pierre Sourbié (1906-1985) as "an ancient rampart overlooking the plain, where the long green ribbon of Lendou unfolds."

The Pilgrim's Garden in Lauzerte traces the history of the pilgrimage to
Santiago de Compostela.

The rich farmland of the Tarn-et-Garonne can be seen from Lauzerte.

A large shade tree frames a view from the barbican in Lauzerte.

From the barbican's terrace, we have a bird's eye view of Jardin du Pèlerin — the Pilgrim's Garden, which contains a path with signs that tell the story of those that hike the Camino de Santiago — the Way of Saint James. Lauzerte is a prominent stop along this famous route, and even this late in the year, we see several hikers.

This unusual upturned corner in Place des Cornières in Lauzerte
was installed in 1987.

This upturned corner in Lauzerte's Place des Cornières was designed by
Jacques Buchholtz and is made of reinforced concrete and mosaic tiles

As we reach the upper edge of town, we notice the houses have become larger; these are the mansions that once belonged to the wealthier merchants. Here we find Place des Cornières, Lauzerte's small-ish, pretty square bordered by arches, that contains a unique raised corner. The feature was designed  by Jacques Buchholtz, a famous ceramist who, in 1998, died in a small plane crash. Buchholtz's wife Marielle Homberg, a painter, a two others were also killed in the crash.

The painted panels in Saint Bartholomew's Church in Lauzerte are attributed to
Joseph Ingres and his students.

Located at the far corner of the square is Église Saint-Barthélemy, a somewhat somber church that blends several different styles. Its nave is flanked by six side chapels, and its choir is enclosed by a five-sided apse. The church contains panels that were painted by French Neoclassical painter Joseph Ingres (1755-1814) and his students.

Fifteen wrought-iron signs like this one can be found in the streets of Lauzerte.
They were created by Sylvain Soligon, a former iron worker.

With its many artisan shops and artistic accents, Lauzerte is clearly a village that is explicitly linked to art. Fifteen wrought-iron signs depicting various trades can be found throughout the village. These signs were created by Sylvain Soligon, a former iron worker. We also spot several whimsical Capuchin friars, created by Soligon's son Didier.

This figure of a Capuchin friar on a wall in Lauzerte was
designed by Didion Soligon, son of the iron worker/artist
Sylvain Soligon.

Life here slows down after the summer is over, but off-season visitors will still be charmed by Lauzerte. Market days are Wednesday and Saturday mornings, and the Journée de L'Arbre et du Bois (tree and wood festival) is held each November, (this year on Nov. 17, 2019). And while you're there, stop in one of Lauzerte's 10 restaurants for a glass of Chasselas and a bite of something flavored with saffron — a spice that has grown in this area since the Middle Ages.

Artwork seems to grow in the village of Lauzerte.

Lauzerte is located in the northwest corner of the Tarn-et-Garonne, about 40 km north of Montauban, 55 km east of Agen, and 40 km southwest of Cahors. Pair a visit to Lauzerte with a trip to Moissac, a half-hour away, for a terrific day in the Quercy Blanc region.