Angers is lively and lovely

An arch at Château  d'Angers provides a framed view across the Maine River. 

 My sister and I recently spent a few days in Angers, a beautiful city located at the edge of France's Loire Valley. Currently ranked as one of the country's greenest cities, Angers is known for its environmental focus as well as its rich history. The centerpiece of that history is Château d'Angers.

From fortress to palace to prison to royal residence,
Château d'Angers is now a monument and an exhibition space.  

The castle has been an important fortress and home to various royals since the 13th century. Its most notable resident was King René who expanded the legacy of the Plantagenet dynasty and turned Angers into an important European intellectual capital. Good King René (le bon roi René) was, among his other accomplishments, a poet, composer, and all-around patron of the arts. 

The royal residence at Château d'Angers was built by
King René in the 15th century.

Formal gardens surround the base of Château d'Angers.

Angers Château is an impressive collection of buildings including a royal residence, which now is an exhibition space, a chapel, courtyards, formal gardens, and, most importantly, the Apocalypse Gallery. This modern space houses the oldest and largest surviving set of tapestries, collectively known as the Apocalypse tapestry. 

The 100-meter long Apocalypse tapestry was created during the
Hundred Years' War, a period when France was struggling with 
famine and plague.

The Apocalypse tapestry originally comprised six 6 x 23-meter panels.
It is made entirely of wool.

We probably should have opted for a guided tour in order to more fully understand the tapestry's story, which is based the Book of Revelation in the New Testament. In a nutshell: St. John had visions, Good and Evil struggled, catastrophes ensued, and Christ emerged triumphant. 

 Le Musée Jean-Lurçat in Angers originally was a hospital.
It now houses exhibits of contemporary tapestries.

The connection between Angers and tapestries continues in another exhibit at the château, as well as in a delightful exhibition at Le Musée Jean-Lurçat. We can't pass up the current show: a sampling of tapestries on loan from Aubusson based upon the stories of J.R.R. Tolkien. (And yes, I'm a LOTR super fan.) I think I need to make another trip to Aubusson, a town in the Massif Central that I visited and wrote about in 2014. 

The reverse side of a canvas illustrates how tapestries are created. 
It is part of the Tolkien exhibit at Le Musée Jean-Lurçat in Angers.

Boats, including the one we have lunch on, are moored at
Quai des Carmes in Angers.

A feature of Angers that makes it such an appealing place for outdoor activities is its huge green space. We aren't here long enough to walk along the Maine River, but instead enjoy it from the water during a scrumptious lunch cruise on L'Hirondelle Bateau Promenade Restaurant. 

Our bateau lunch cruise on the Maine River heads back to Angers.

This 15th-centry half-timbered house is located at Place Sainte-Croix in Angers. 

Le Jardin des Plantes in Angers dates back to the 18th century.

With its population of 150,000, about 25,000 of whom are university students, Angers is a lively and affordable city. One evening, we skip dinner and instead share a bottle of wine and a platter of vegetarian dips (with delicious bread) at a Les Trois Pinardiers, a wine bar around the corner from our apartment. Earlier that afternoon we check out Jardin des Plantes, where flowers are blooming and families are frolicking. After several recent trips where I saw more rain than sunshine, it's especially great to have some good weather.

Sculptures are found throughout the Jardin des Plantes in Angers.

Oh, and I usually mention the local tourist office at the beginning of my posts, but it isn't too late to give a shout-out to the one in Angers. We arrived in Angers by train and  had a few hours before our lodging was available. After we had a great lunch at a Thai restaurant, we headed to the Office de Tourisme hauling our luggage on our backs. The staff there is super-friendly and we were able to stow our backpacks in a locker there (for a small fee) while we visited the château.  

The Office de Tourisme in Angers ranks high on my list of tourism
offices for its friendliness, helpfulness, and storage lockers.  

Paris needn't break the bank

Some familiar Paris landmarks are seen across the Seine.

Even in a city as pricey as Paris, it's not hard to find lots of things to do that cost only the energy needed to get there. On our recent last-minute trip to France's capital (and most everyone's favorite city), we found plenty of free sites that we could walk to from our hotel in the Marais quartier. Don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with taking the metro, but the weather was fabulous during our stay and we both love to walk. By the end of the day, though, we are exhausted and can't muster the energy to explore Paris after dark. That's fine ... we're both early-to-bed-early-to-rise kind of people.

Place Vosges is the oldest planned square in Paris.

After our long trek from Gare Montparnasse to our hotel, we just drop our bags, catch our breath, and head to Place Vosges, the city's oldest planned square. If you were hanging out here before 1900, you would have called this beautiful square Place Royale. It's free to visit, but don't bring your dog. On this beautiful afternoon, there are lots of visitors lounging on the lawn and relaxing on benches. The plaza is surrounded by stately red brick buildings, one of which houses Maison Victor Hugo. 

A portrait of Victor Hugo by Alphonse Monchablon
is displayed at Maison Victor Hugo in Paris.

The writer lived here for 16 years between 1832 and 1848.  Hugo's apartment is located on the second floor (that's the third floor if you're American) and includes a half-dozen rooms filled with pieces that document his extraordinary life, both in Paris and when he was in exile in Guernsey. In addition to writing, Hugo is said to have had quite the flair for interior design. The museum is one of 14 museums owned by the City of Paris and thus is free of charge to visit, although there can be a charge for temporary exhibits.

The bed where Hugo died is displayed at Maison Victor Hugo in Paris.

Visitors to the Carnavalet Museum in Paris enter via this newly
designed introductory room.

The wonderful Carnavalet Museum is located just around the corner. I love this museum, filled to the brim with Paris history. Here, we explore Paris from prehistoric times, through the Middle Ages, the French Revolution, Napoleon's reign, and into the 21st century. There's so much to see at this free museum that it's no wonder I visit the Carnavalet nearly every time I'm in town.

The facade of the Lescot Pharmacy was the first storefront to be
acquired by the Carnavalet Museum in Paris.  

Paris's Carnavalet Museum takes visitors from
prehistoric times to today.

Josephine and Napoleon are one of France's most prominent power couples. 

A dignified Marie Antoinette is escorted from the Consiergerie to the
guillotine in this 1885 painting displayed at the Carnavalet Museum in Paris.

Pére-Lachaise cemetery in Paris contains an estimated 1 million graves.

About a half-hour walk from our hotel is the famed and massive (110 acres) cemetery Père-Lachaise. We're running out of steam during our visit, and the map on my phone is too small to read, but we stroll through the tree-lined avenues of the cemetery grounds, admiring the various tombs and gravestones. So many famous people are buried here including Frederic Chopin, Edith Piaf, Balzac, Colette, Proust, Jean de la Fontaine, Maria Callas, Oscar Wilde, and Jim Morrison. Père-Lachaise is not only an open-air museum, but it's also the largest park in Paris. It's free to visit, of course, but I'd recommend getting a printed map if you want to see the graves of anyone in particular. 

Crypts like this one stand along tree-lined avenues at
Pére-Lachaise cemetery in Paris,

The symbol of the 2024 Summer Olympics, the Paris Cauldron
makes a return visit to Tuileries Gardens in the summer. 

Our August 2025 visit coincides with the first return of the iconic Paris Olympic cauldron balloon, now officially called the Paris Cauldron. (Those Olympics folks are pretty strict with branding). After its debut at last summer's Olympic Games, the balloon was technically improved so it could withstand months on display, rather than the original 30 days. Located in the Tuileries Gardens near the Louvre, the balloon re-launched on June 21, the day Fête de la Musique is celebrated here. Each evening (weather permitting) it rises into the air providing a stunning reminder of the city's spirit of the Games. After its three-month stay, the cauldron will be put away again. But there are plans for at least the next two years to bring the Paris Cauldron back between June 21 and Sept. 14. 

The Paris Cauldron is anchored on the site where
French inventor Jacques Charles took his first
gas balloon flight in 1783. 

You never know what you'll see while walking through Paris. From "Joanie on a Pony" to a volleyball match with Paris firefighters, there's so much to take in. 

This gilded bronze statue of Joan of Arc, affectionately known as
'Joanie on a Pony' is located at Place des Pyramids in Paris.

We're fortunate to catch a pompiérs volleyball tournament
at Hôtel de Ville in Paris.

Keep your eyes open for tromp d'œil murals while
strolling in Paris.

Each summer Paris creates a beach along the Seine.

But, even the most intrepid of us need a break, so it's perfect that the Paris Plages are open during our visit here. Located along the Seine, there are comfortable sling-back chairs to lounge upon and umbrellas for shade. After a particularly long morning of walking, we pick up some sandwiches and drinks, find ourselves a couple of nice beach chairs and, for a few hours, watch the world, and about a thousand joggers, go by. Les doux moments de Paris.

The Paris plage is the perfect place to pause and enjoy the day.

Visit these sites for more information about:

Maison Victor Hugo

Musée Histoire de Paris Carnavalet

Père-Lachaise Cemetery

The Paris Cauldron

Late winter in Provence is all about pink, not lavender

Thousands of Flamants roses hang out in the Camargue region of France.

After five mostly damp days along the Costa Brava, we head back to France to spend a few days in Provence. Too early in the year for lavender, we opt instead to visit ancient Roman sites and are thrilled by close encounters with pink flamingos. 

Surrounded by Corinthian column capitals, Maison Carrée
in Nîmes is considered an architectural masterpiece 

We've decided to spend our first day in Nîmes. Tucked between the Cévennes mountains and the  Mediterranean, this splendid city dates back to the 6th century B.C. Striking remains of its Roman heritage can still be explored. We buy the three-site ticket that gives us entry to Maison Carrée, a pristine Roman temples; Les Arènes, considered to be the world's best-conserved Roman amphitheater; and Tour Magne, or Big Tower, which stands above a Roman sanctuary and was part of the Augustan walls. Clearly, we have a lot of walking ahead of us today. 

Built at the end of the 1st century, Les Arènes in Nîmes could hold
more than 24,000 spectators of gladiator fights and other events. 

The Roman amphitheater Les Arènes in Nîmes is still used
for bullfights, concerts and sporting events.   

The Quay de la Fontaine leads to the famed gardens in Nîmes.

After a breathless exploration of the amphitheater, we set out for the Jardins de la Fontaine. Built around Roman sanctuaries and fountains, the gardens were transformed in the 18th and 19th centuries, and are said to be among the first public gardens in Europe. After admiring various sculptures, the Temple of Diana, and the grand stairways around a spring, we begin the steep walk to the Tour Magne.

This smiley statue is located in Jardins de la Fontaine in Nîmes.

No one know the backstory behind the Temple of Diana in Nîmes.

Tour Magne in Nîmes was built over an Celtic tower
as part of the city's Augustan walls.   

The views from the top of Tour Magne in Nîmes are, of course, spectacular.

Full up on antiquity, we head to lunch before knocking about Nîmes for the afternoon. I'm really delighted with this very walkable city, and I add it to my list of France favorites.

The Romans won a victory over Egypt in 31 B.C. and created a coin
to celebrate. That coin, minted in Nîmes, had a crocodile on it.
Yada yada yada, the crocodile is the symbol of Nîmes. 

We're now off to Arles. The centerpiece of this thousand-year-old city on the Rhone River, is yet another Roman site: a two-level amphitheater that hosts shows, concerts, and bullfights — both the kind where no bull is hurt (the tauromachie) and the traditional (barbaric) kind. 

This Roman amphitheater in Arles was plundered as a quarry
over the centuries, but what remains is an impressive site.

Beyond the Roman sites, Arles is known for being home for a number of years to Vincent Van Gogh, and visitors can retrace his steps to see where he painted some of his best known masterpieces. He painted 300 pieces while he lived here, but none are housed in the city's museums.

Primatial Basilica of Saint Trophimes in Arles was once a cathedral.

The Romanesque-Gothic church of Notre Dame de la Major
in Arles was built in the 12th century.

After a morning of walking around Arles, we head south to the Camargue. This sprawling wetlands park attracts those wanting to ride horses, cycle, hike, or just chill on a remote beach. Visitors keep their eyes open to spot wild white horses or bulls. But for me, I've come in search of les flamants roses: pink flamingos.

I'm fascinated watching the pink flamingos in the Camargue.

I wouldn't call myself a bird enthusiast, but I've heard a lot about these flamboyant pink birds, and I can't recall seeing them except in a zoo. At the Parc Ornithologique Pont du Gau we are handed a trail map and pointed in the right direction. After admiring some egrets, ducks, and herons, we turn a corner and suddenly come upon hundreds of flamingos. Following the path which takes us at times to the water's edge, we'll see thousands of these beautiful birds. No exaggeration: An estimated 10,000 flamingos come here each year to breed. 

Flamingos' pink color comes from the algae and shellfish they eat.

Flamingos are drawn to the open, salty marshes and ponds of the Camargue. 

In addition to pink flamingos, the Camargue is home to hundreds
of species of birds, like this gray heron.

And onto another city packed with history: Avignon.

The huge Palais des Papes dominates the skyline of Avignon.

It's the final day of our visit to Provence, and the weather has turned wicked. Our guide on a walking tour of Avignon claims it's the coldest day of the winter. This city is best known for its sprawling Papal Palace. In the 14th century, Avignon was the seat of the Christian world. Nine successive popes lived in this massive Gothic palace. These days, visitors are given tablets that provide a virtual tour of the 25 rooms that are open to the public.  

Nine popes lived in the Papal Palace in Avignon in the 14th century.

Rather than committing to a few hours (and hefty admission price) to the Papal Palace, we check out a couple of Avignon's free museums. The Petit Palais Museum houses a lot of Italian religious art, much of it part of the Louvre collection. More to my taste is the Palais du Roure, a 15th century manor that was once the cultural hotspot for Provençal culture.  

Avignon's Petit Palais Museum houses religious art and artifacts.

Palais du Roure invites visitors to admire the art and furnishings
inside a stately mansion in Avignon.

Avignon's Grand Opera has been hosting performances for 200 years.

Sur le pont d'Avignon, a song I memorized as a child, claims that people used to dance here. Alas, that's probably only a tale as the bridge is very narrow. Once nearly a kilometer long and featuring 20 arches, the Pont d'Avignon fell victim to the Rhone's many floods. Today just a small bit of the bridge remains, which one can visit, but not actually dance upon. 

This trompe l'œil shows Picasso gazing out a window.
He was living in Avignon when World War I began.

A gilded statue of the Virgin Mary sits atop Avignon's cathedral.

For more information:

Nîmes Jardins de la Fontaine
Parc Ornithologique Pont du Gau