Tuesday, June 1, 2021

Enfin! Riding and dining in Puy l'Évêque

Looking downward offers an unusual perspective of the
Lot River in Puy l'Évêque.  

More than two months since the calendar declared it was spring, we finally enjoy some seasonal splendor this week. We join some friends for a bike ride along the Vallée du Lot bike path to the little village of Puy l'Évêque. As we're just emerging from our third confinement in France, it's a special treat to be able to have lunch on the terrace of a riverside restaurant. 

Puy l'Évêque is full of charming accents like these vines
cascading from a railing and a small mural.

We park a few kilometers to the east of Fumel, so the ride to Puy l'Évêque is an easy 10k. The path is flat and paved, and the rural scenery is lovely. Not trusting our guts at a couple of points, we stray from the path and end up on D-roads for part of our journey. The signage isn't perfect, but it'd be pretty hard to get lost. 

Rooftops and the river dominate views from Puy l'Évêque,

After arriving in Puy l'Évêque, we lock our bikes by the river, make a lunch reservation. then head uphill on foot to check out the village. Narrow passages contain steps that lead us to the medieval village and a quiet main street. I wouldn't describe the town as bustling on the day of our visit. Many shops are closed; either they haven't yet reopened or weren't able to stay in business during the pandemic. An art exhibition is taking place next to the Mairie, but we opt to wander the streets instead. We don't have time to visit the church, Église Saint Pierre, which is on the other side of the village, but we'll be sure to stop in the next time we're in town. Its interior is described on the Vallée du Lot website as "exceptionally rich."

A carefully look around the windows and doors in
Puy l'Évêque yields this gripping bit of art.

Because Puy l'Évêque is perched on a rocky outcrop (the word puy means spur), the views over the river and the vineyards of the Lot Valley are beautiful. 

A garden appears beyond an arch in Puy l'Évêque.

The hilly village of Puy l'Évêque gives its visitors gifts of
pretty views.

On our way back down to the river, we're greeted by some young school boys who show off their English salutations. We note that the school is in an idyllic setting as we head for our delicious lunch at L'Astrolabe. I'm glad I can work off calories from my burger de poulet et frites on the return ride. 

Medieval charms in Puy l'Évêque include this
ancient entry.