So much art, so little time in Florence & Bologna

Lennon lyrics shine on a Bologna street.

I have only two items on my must-do list for our brief visit to Bologna: pasta with bolognaise sauce and a baloney sandwich. Even though we're here for only one night, I manage to find both at an unassuming little restaurant along a busy pedestrian street that serves its meals on paper plates. (We're not fussy.) We have a starter of little sandwiches with mortadella (fancy bologna) and a scrumptious lasagne with — you guessed it — bolognaise sauce.

Our dinner in Bologna includes the best boloney sandwiches ever.

Bologna's Piazza Maggiore is hopping on the Friday evening of our visit. Before we find the Tourism Office, I stop to admire the Fountain of Neptune, one of the city's symbols. It seems everyone is here, getting primed for this final weekend of Carnivale. 

The Flemish sculptor known as Giambologna designed
the Fountain of Neptune in Bologna.

Following the "three hours in the heart of our city" route that is suggested on the map, we manage to cover a lot of ground. We also leave plenty of sites to discover the next time we visit Bologna. 

This typically stunning building is located along
via dell'Indipendenza in Bologna.

The Basilica of San Petronio in Bologna contains the
world's largest sundial as well as this beautiful altar.

If I think I may come back to Bologna, I'm certain I'll return to Florence. Our three days here aren't  enough to see everything. We've barely dipped our toes into the Renaissance riches that abound here. 

This replica of David stands in Piazzale Michelangelo in Florence.

Our apartment in Florence is ideally situated in a quiet neighborhood at the base of Giardino Delle Rose, the mountain that Piazzale Michaelangelo sits atop. Once we settle into our excellent lodgings, we walk up to the plaza that contains wonderful views as well as one of the city's two replicas of David. The original David is located in the Gallerie dell'Accademia, a museum that we don't have time to visit this trip, unfortunately.  

This guy seems to be stepping off the Grazie bridge in Florence.

Packed with people and jewelry stores, we only bother crossing
Ponte Vecchio once during our visit to Florence. 

This replica of David stands in Piazza della Signoria
(Duomo Square) in Florence.

Filled with statues, Piazza della Signoria is Florence's
main square. 

Sandro Botticelli's The Birth of Venus is displayed
at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Because we're here in the winter, the major museums offer deeply discounted passes. Our ticket to Galleria Degli Uffizi includes entry to the Archeological Museum, the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. With about 70 museums in Florence there will be plenty left to see the next time we visit. 

The corridors of the Florence's main art museum, Uffizi Gallery, contain hundreds of Roman and Greek sculptures from the Medici collection. If you were to stop and study each piece, you'd never make it to many of the 100+ rooms  containing more than 2,200 works of art from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Our hours here are both exhilarating and exhausting. It's about all we can tackle, artwise, for today.

This sculpture of Hercules slaying a centaur is an important example
of an ancient statuary that was completed in the modern era. 
It is on display at Uffizi Gallery in Florence.   

Caravaggio's painted shield depicting Medusa was given to Grand
Duke Ferdinando by Cardinal Francesco Maria del Monte in 1598.
It is on display at Uffizi Gallery in Florence.  

The next day, we're off to visit Palazzo Pitti. This vast palace was once owned by the Medici family, who turned a mere castle into one of Florence's most important art museums. The Palatine Gallery, the Royal Apartments, the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Gallery of Modern Art, and the Museum of Costume and Fashion, are all housed inside the Pitti Palace. It's smart to look up: The ceilings here are amazing. 

The ceilings at the Pitti Palace in Florence are as
glorious as the artwork contained there.

This marble sculpture entitled "The Young Michelangelo"
is by Emilio Zocchi. It is on display at Pitti Palace in Florence.

Adjacent to Pitti Palace is Boboli Gardens, the largest monumental green space in Florence. One needs a separate ticket to visit Boboli, which is more open-air museum than garden. It was created over a 400-year period in the 15th through 19th centuries. Originally designed by the Borgolo family, the garden was expanded and designed by the Medici family. Included are an amphitheatre, fountains, a rampart built by Michelangeo, and, if you visit in the right season, flowers. Amazing views await those who  climb to the top level.

Neptune's fountain in Florence's Boboli Gardens is nicknamed "The Fork." 

Giotto's Bell Tower and the Cathedral of Florence are seen from Boboli Gardens. 

We seem to be the only visitors to Museo Archeologico, although soon a school group arrives, which provides a soundtrack of chatter and giggles to our exploration. The museum's Egyptian Collection is Italy's second most important after the one in Turin.  

Mummies and other relics from Egypt are on display at Florence's
Archaeological Museum. 

This piece is on display at the Archaeological Museum in Florence.

Our trip to Italy is nearing its end. We'll return to France via train to Genoa, Flixbus to Marseille, and another train home. We're proud that we've done this whole trip via ground mass transit. Far less stressful than driving, parking, and planes, we'll certainly be opting for trains and buses for many of our future adventures. 

I'll have the Padua with some Venice on the side

Prato della Valle in Padua is one of Europe's largest squares.
Constructed atop a pesky swamp, it is considered to be
a great feat of architectonics.

We've made the city of Padua our base for the northern Italy part of our recent trip. Its proximity to Venice (just a half-hour by train) is one factor, but Padua has a charm and heritage that rivals its more famous neighbor. 

Kids! Stop pulling on the lion's ears.

The University of Padua's faculty honored on this wall and ceiling
include Galileo Galilei. (Fun fact: Copernicus was a student here.) 

Padua, or Pavlova, is located on the Bacchiglion river. The university here was founded in 1222 and is the world's fifth-oldest continuously operating university. 

Orto Botanico di Padova is often called the original botanical Garden.

Padua's botanical garden, the Orto Botanico di Padova is the world's oldest academic botanical garden. It was established in 1545 by the Venetian Republic for the purpose of growing medicinal plants. In the winter, the exterior gardens aren't in bloom, however the greenhouses are a treat. Here, we pass through Earth's habitats, from tropical to desert.

Branches fan out at Padua Botanical Garden. 

Cocoa pods are native to South America. These are in the
tropical greenhouse at Padua Botanical Garden. 

Cacti catch my eye at Padua Botanical Garden.

Padua's Duomo was built between the 16th and
18th centuries. A fire in 1821 and air raids in two
world wars damaged the cathedral.

For those who have more fascination than I in religious sites, Padua's Basilica di Sant’Antonio di Padova and Cappella degli Scrovegni would be a can't-miss destinations. We prefer browsing in the city's market, which has operated for more than 800 years. The plazas in Padua are large and lively, and the canals and astronomical clock located in Piazza dei Signori give the city a Venetian vibe.

The astronomical clock of Padua's Torre dell'Orologio
is similar to the one in Venice's Piazza San Marco.
Both date to the 15th century.

This canal is in Padua.

This canal is in Venice.

We take a very early train to Venice, arriving just as the Tourism Office is open. With map in hand, we head to St. Peter's Square in order to beat the crowds. Before too long, the tour groups arrive, and I have to elbow my way to the railing to get a glimpse the Bridge of Sighs. (Thanks to the film "A Little Romance," this was another item on my must-do list. )

Saint Mark's Square is light on tourists, for the moment.

Visitors make their way to Saint Mark's Basilica in Venice.

We had planned to visit the Guggenheim while in Venice, but we didn't buy our tickets in advance, and the line to get in is disorganized. So, we skip it and head off to find some food that won't break the bank. We settle into an outdoor table at a waterside bàcaro and order a few cicchetti (small snacks) and Aperol Spritzes. Consequently, I'm starting to warm up to Venice. 

Morning fog adds to the legendary aura of Venice.

It's required, I think, to get lost in Venice, and so we do, several times throughout the day. I even have to ask directions to the train station when we are literally around the corner from it. I hope I'm not losing my map-reading skills and natural sense of direction. We still have a week left in Italy with a lot more to explore. 

That's the Bridge of Sighs over my shoulder.

Napoli's piazzas, pizza, and pizzazz

The Fountain of Neptune in Piazza Municipo in Naples was built in 1601.
It was moved several times as the city expanded.

The city of Naples (Napoli) entices us to visit it twice during our two-week stay in Salerno. On the first day, we join a street food tour, giving us the chance to get the lay of the land, learn a bit of history, and taste some of the city's casual cuisine. 

Vibrant and bustling markets can be found throughout Naples.

Some residents of Napoli's Spanish Quarter live along
narrow passageways like this.

Our tour group is tiny, just the two of us, a young American who just moved to Prague, and our guide. As we head from Piazza Municipio to the street market, we wind through some narrow residential streets. Once at the market, we try a variety of street food, starting with tripe and ending with a glass of limoncello. 

Ken seems pleased with his fried pizza during our
street food tour in Naples.

After the tour, we head to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, one of the world's most important archeological museums. Its vast collections include Greek, Roman, and Renaissance works, and, in particular, artifacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Since we had just visited Pompeii, the model of the city is of particular interest to us.

The Naples National Archeological Museum houses the Farnese
Collection, a large exhibition of classical Greco-Roman sculptures 

Artifacts from the Vesuvian towns and Roman and Greek relics are
found in abundance at the Naples National Archeological Museum. 

A large model of the city of Pompeii is located in Naples
National Archaeological Museum

Our visit to the museum leaves us too exhausted to stick around Naples for dinner, so we decide to skip the meal and return to Salerno early.

 

Naples Cathedral, or Duomo, is also widely known as
Cattedrale di San Gennaro (Cathedral of Saint Januarius),
in honor of the city's patron saint.

A week later we're back in Naples. After all, eating authentic Neapolitan pizza is on my gotta-do list for our Italy trip. On our way to the Spanish Quarter where I hope to see all those street murals I've heard about, we pop into the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, known simply as the Duomo.

The ceiling of the Naples Duomo is quite fancy.

I don't find any street art, but we hit the jackpot for our pizza lunch in a small bistro tucked away on a side street in the Quartieri Spagnoli. In the weeks ahead, I'll eat a whole lot of amazing food here in Italy, but on this day, this pizza, is deliziosa e perfetta!

These kids and their clever mom are on their way to
a Carnivale parade in Naples.

Imagine Pompeii before the blast

Mount Vesuvius watches over the city of Pompeii.

Some sites must be experienced in person to really grasp their size and importance. The archaeological park of Pompeii is one such place. Getting to Pompeii is fairly easy from our base in Salerno, Italy. We take a local train and disembark in the small city. Easy so far, right?

View of Pompeii from the Tower of Mercury

 
Upon exiting the train station, we're directed to a visitor's center, where we receive a fast-talking sales pitch from someone who obviously is working on commission. We already bought our tickets online, so I'm suspicious of the hard sell: All visitors must each rent their own audio guide — no sharing! — and if you want a map, you'll have to buy this book for 17 euros. Ah ha! This is a private sales office and definitely not affiliated with Pompeii Archeological Park. We make a hasty exit and head on foot toward the park entrance.

Unfortunately, we overshoot the entrance, and walk about a mile out of way. Oh well! We stop at a coffee shop for a cappuccino & cornetto before setting off again. Thus fortified, we find the the right entrance, pick up a free map, and enter Pompeii.

Temple of Apollo in Pompeii

I usually do my homework before sightseeing. This time, though, I'm woefully unprepared for the enormity of Pompeii. We probably should have joined an official tour, as we would have better understood the intricacies of this vast site. However, even muddling through on our own, we have an amazing day there and are thoroughly awed by Pompeii. 

View of Pompeii from the Tower of Mercury

The park is divided into six regions filled with ruins of villas, shops, restaurants, theaters, schools, and churches. The park's signage is good, and friendly docents scattered about are happy to explain what we're looking at. 

An ancient Roman mural in a Pompeii restaurant

The city of Pompei and the surrounding area had an estimated population of around 20,000 when Mount Vesuvius erupted in the year 79. Most of its citizens survived the volcano's devastation, but Pompeii, Herculaneum, Torre Annunziata, and other towns were reduced to rubble and buried under ash. 

The garden of the House of Marco Lucrezio in Pompeii

The area was left undisturbed until the 1700s when the world was amazed as the sophisticated Greco-Roman city was unearthed. Astonishing discoveries of daily life were made, such as an oven with loaves of 600,000-day-old bread inside. Some preserved human remains were also found.

A public fountain in Pompeii

Today the area is a UNESCO World Heritage site and an active archaeological excavation site. 

Pompeii's amphitheatre

An excellent reference about Pompeii's history is located on the Britannica website here, and an awesome animated video from the Melbourne Museum entitled "A Day in Pompeii" can be found on YouTube or click here.