The Algarve isn't just about beaches and bars

The fortress of Castro Marim is seen from the walls of the village's castle.

Maybe I'm just not cut out for the Algarve. Or maybe living in a small rural village where I spend much of my time relaxing has shaped my idea of what makes a good vacation. I'd much rather get out and see new things, instead of sitting on a sunny terrace sipping cocktails all afternoon. The resort we're staying in Cabanas is a short drive from Tavira, Portugal. It's in Tavira that we spend one of the most delightful afternoons of our trip.

Another view from castle walls: This one in Tavira.

We enter Taviro by crossing this bridge across the Gilão River.

Fado Com Historia in Taviro is dedicated to the preservation of Fado music.

Tavira is a small city along the Gilão river that contains, among other charms, the ruins of a small medieval castle, 37 churches, and a few museums. Tavira is also home to Fado Com Historia, an association that offers daily concerts in the stunning Misericórdia Church. 

Tavira's Misericórdia Church is the stunning setting for daily Fado concerts.

Beautiful tiles line the walls of Misericórdia Church in Tavira.

We'd learned about Fado music on our previous trips to Portugal, but hadn't actually heard it performed live. Fado is traditional, often melancholy folk music accompanied by guitars or mandolins, or a Portuguese guitar. We've gotten our tickets and are among the first to arrive at the church. Soon all seats are full and the two guitar players and handsome singer begin the performance. Melancoly? Maybe. But by the end of the concert we're all clapping and singing along. Believe me, if you travel to the Algarve to sit around or beach hop, trade your flip-flops for shoes, and attend this fabulous concert.

The singer at the Fado concert we attended in Tavira was a past winner
of the national Fado competition.

We're enchanted by this performance on a Portuguese guitar at the Fado concert in Tavira.

On the way to Faro, we've decided to stop in Estoi. Another great decision! Here we visit the Roman Ruins of Milreu, the best preserved such ruins in Southern Portugal. 

The remains of a temple stand at the Roman Ruins of Milreu in Estoi.

In the 1st century AD, the site was an agricultural settlement. In the 2nd and 3rd centuries, it was converted to a luxury villa complete with temple and large bathhouse. Many of the intricate mosaics are intact. Our 1-euro admission allows us to explore the ruins at our own pace.

A number of mosaic walls are intact at the Roman Ruins of Milreu in Estoi. 

Mosaics at the Roman Ruins of Milreu in Estoi are well-preserved.

We enjoy a leisurely and fascinating walk through Roman Ruins of Milreu in Estoi.

Across the salt flats of Castro Marim we have a good view
of the Guadiana International Bridge.

Checking my trip notes, I find little about Faro to write about, so instead I'll skip ahead to Castro Marim near the border of Portugal and Spain. This small village, set along the Guadiana River is considered less touristy and more authentic than much of the Algarve. The main attraction is the Castle of Castro Marim. We pay the embarrassingly low admission of 55 cents and spend the next hour or so exploring the site. 

The Castro Marim fort can be seen from the ramparts of the castle. 

The castle was constructed in the 13th century by orders of King D. Afonso III as part of the fortification of the border between Portugal and Castile. In the 16th century, King D. Manuel I promoted improvements to the castle, which was subsequently fortified during the Portuguese Restoration War (1640-1668). Along with most of southern Portural, the earthquake of 1755 caused major damage.

The castle of Castro Marim once held an important defensive position along
the Portugal-Castile border.

Much of the Castle of Castro Marim was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.

Nothing like exploring to work up an appetite, so we head to the unforgettable Taberna Velho Cavalinho. We're a little early for lunch. but the tavern-keeper invites us to sit on the patio while he finishes his food-prepping. 

Although thousands of visitors a day is usual in the busy high season, today
we have the Taberna Velho Cavalinho in Castro Marim nearly to ourselves. 

Inside, the medieval tavern is dark (lit primarily with candles) and about as authentic as one can imagine. For the next two hours, we're treated like royalty, or at least visiting dignataries. We allow the proprietor to choose our fare after he determines that we're "pretty hungry." Plate after plate of meat-and-veggie pies, fish, cheese, fruit, and ripe red tomatoes appear before us. We're having such a good time that we're only vaguely worried what the bill will be. In the end, however, we leave with plenty of change for our 50-euro bill.  

Eating at Taberna Velho Cavalinho in Castro Marim is an unforgettable experience.

Back in Cabanas, we decide to take advantage of the resort's free boat shuttle to the ocean. (One can't actually get to the beach without taking a boat there.) It's a beautiful day, and we soak in the sun as we walk a mile or so up and down the sandy beach. I suppose it would have been wrong to spend the past two weeks on the coast of Portugal without actually touching the water. 

Our resort in Cabanas provides this transportation to the beach.

Yep, that's the ocean! We finally visit before heading home.

I include a rare picture of myself in today's post since it's one I don't hate.

Cabanas has a nice boardwalk, a big assortment of restaurants, bars, and cacti.

Rainy skies in Aveiro turn blue in Évora

If one picture can sum up our week in Aveiro, Portugal, this might be it.

Deciding on a winter getaway seems to be more of a challenge these days. While in past years, February travel has been ideal weather-wise, we weren't so lucky year. Flying to an island isn't for us — we're not exactly beach people. We wanted to drive somewhere, so we looked to one of our favorite countries: Portugal. 

Fish mark the spot at Aveiro's tourism office.

We take our time, stopping in two Spanish cities on the way, and run into stormy weather about an hour outside of our destination of Aveiro. I wonder if anyone has every counted the number of cities that have given themselves the moniker of "The Venice of ... (fill in the name of the country)." Aveiro is one such city, due to its canals and colorfully painted boats. To be fair, we aren't able to fully enjoy the coastal charms of this place due to the weather, but we take a lot of walks and manage to visit some cool museums. 

Museu de Arte Nova in Aveiro is located in a former private residence.

Aveiro can rightfully boast a strong Art Nouveau influence. We see plenty of beautiful (and some rundown) buildings in my favorite architectural style. There's even an Art Nouveau museum, although the building's exterior is more impressive than the modest exhibits inside. 

Art Nouveau architecture is found along Aveiro's famed canals.

Aveiro's patron saint is Sainte Princess Joana, and traces of her can be found all around town, particularly at the Museum of Aveiro. Housed in the Dominican convent where Ste. Joana once lived, the exhibits are, unsurprisingly, primarily religious. 

Visitors can learn all about the city's patron saint. at the Museum of Aveiro. 

The museum is next door to Sé Catedral de Aveiro. Built on the site of the 15th century Church of Nossa Senhora de Misericórdia, the lovely white cathedral is a stylistic blend of Mannerism, Baroque, and Modernism. 

Aveiro is strongly connected to its Roman Catholic roots. 

This boat, called a Moliceiro, is located in Aveiro's City Museum.

The Aveiro City Museum is more to our tastes. Here we learn about Aveiro's important salt industry and are treated to a personal tour by a friendly docent. She asks us lots of questions about our lives both in France and in the U.S. Our conversation becomes one of the most pleasant memories of our entire trip. 

It's easier to photograph Aveiro's colorful sign from behind.

The sky finally clears on our last day here allowing us a final chance to explore this beautiful city on the northern Portuguese coast. 

Évora is known for its white houses and rich heritage. 

We now head south with an overnight stop in Évora, a truly charming city and a UNESCO World Heritage site. We bypass the recommended sites and savor the beautiful day. Here we have one of the best lunches of our entire trip at Tempora & Prosa, a small Brazilian restaurant tucked into a narrow street lined with white houses. 

Évora's Temple of Diana was actually built to honor Emperor Augustus.

Évora is home to a large Roman temple, long-thought to be dedicated to the goddess Diana. It's free to check out, and I'm finally able to make good use of my camera. 

The flowers are thinking of blooming in Conde Vila Flor square in Évora.

Other highlights of our brief stay in Évora are a trip to the barber for Ken, who had been looking a little grizzly, and a luxurious night at the Évora Olive Hotel, a rare treat for us.  

Évora's main square is Praça do Giraldo.

Next, we'll head to the Algarve along the southern coast of Portugal.

Porto, the second time around

The colorful Porto waterfront is seen from Vila Nova de Gaia.

Three years ago, we made our first visit to Porto. Evidently, we liked it because this year we decided to make the city our base for exploring Northern Portugal. Our apartment's location is perfect. It's an easy walk to restaurants, shopping, and transportation. In fact, after getting reacquainted with Porto's hills, we very smartly buy bus passes, which allow us the freedom to go anywhere we want without having to worry about the walk home.

 The Gustave Eifel-designed Ponte de Dom Luís I was the longest
bridge of its kind when it was built over the Douro in the late 1900s.

Once the mainstay of Porto public transportation, the city now has only
three lines using these historic electricos. 

Stopping to admire murals helps ease the pain of climbing a
long, long stairway in Porto.

Our host has given us a good list of restaurants, and in the course of our week here, we try them all. The best place to get a Francesinha (Porto's decadent sandwich) is two blocks away at Restaurante Capa Negra II. The place is huge and packed. We refuse to regret splurging (calorie-wise), but we vow to make this our only Francesinha meal this week.

The view of the Douro River from Vinum in Vila Nova de Gaia is almost
as good as the restaurant's food.

We enjoy an entirely different eating experience at Vinum, the beautiful restaurant located in Graham's Port Lodge. Locally sourced, fresh and healthy. I finish my meal with a glass of port instead of dessert. Unheard of for me!

While waiting for our bus, I take one more photo of Porto's Ribeira district.

Praia de Lavadores in Gaia marks the beginning of a stretch of beaches along
the Atlantic.  

After lunch we walk down to the river and look at Porto from the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the Douro. We think we're pretty clever taking a bus back home, but I've forgotten to check the route of our transfer bus and we end up at the ocean. Not an awful detour on a day such as this.

Porto's new-ish attraction for families is World of Discoveries.

Another new Porto experience is World of Discoveries, an interactive museum that opened since our last visit. Through video screens, life-size dioramas, and a boat ride across the world, visitors can learn all about Portuguese exploration.We have fun here, due especially to the young enthusiastic staff (most of whom are university students), and families with children should definitely put World of Discoveries on their lists of places to visit in Porto.

Interactive information screens (in a choice of languages) teach
visitors about exploration at World of Discoveries in Porto.

A life-size diorama shows the ship-building process at World of
Discoveries in Porto.

Boats carry visitors to the Amazon rain forests at World of
Discoveries in Porto. 

A simulated trip around the globe is the main attraction at Porto's World of
Discoveries. 

One afternoon we decide to go to the movies. I know roughly where the theater is — just up the street from the top of Praça da Liberdade. However, we have a heck of a time finding it as there is no marquee. Eventually we arrive and after buying our tickets I pop into the ladies room. There are three stalls here, but something is a bit odd. There's a bidet in each stall! Now, I have no problem with bidets although I don't generally use them when we are traveling. But I've never seen one in a public bathroom, and I can't ... well, let's just say, it seems very, very wrong.

I am bewildered by bidets in a public restroom in Porto.

Colorful tile buildings brighten up this Porto street.

Soon our visit to Portugal will be over. We're about to head to Spain where we will meet some incredible and inspiring new friends. In the meantime, see pictures from our first trip to Porto here.

University is Coimbra's crown jewel

The city of Coimbra (pronouced 'queen-bra') is seen from the University campus.

We're on a bus from Porto to Coimbra, and I'm studying up on Portugal's former capital and premier college town. The Universidade de Coimbra opened its doors in 1290 and is one of the world's oldest universities. For a time, until 1911, Coimbra was Portugal's only university.

Before heading to the university at the top of the town, we need a mid-morning snack, and incredibly, I manage to find Mijacão, a tiny tavern in an alley off of Rua Da Sofia that serves yummy (and cheap) sandwiches throughout the day. Thus fortified, we stroll up the stunning Aveinda Sá da Bandeira on our way to the campus.

Steps lead to the Largo Dom Dinis at the University of Coimbra.

Once there, we meet two law students who sell us a postcard and direct us to the place that sells tickets to the historical sites on the university campus that we will be visiting.

The plaza of Paço das Escolas is the centerpiece of the University of Coimbra.

Three of these sites are located along the edges of the majestic plaza of Paço das Escolas. We've been assigned a specific time to be at the downstairs entrance to Joanine Library, the most famous and impressive site in Coimbra and one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. Originally known as the "Book House," the Biblioteca Joanina was commissioned in 1717  by King João V (hence the nickname). The building contains around 60,000 books from the 16th to 18th centuries and is still considered a valuable bibliographical resource for scholars.

The portal to the Joanine Library at the University of Coimbra is a
triumphal arch framed by ionic columns. Above the door is this message
in Latin: 'This is the home that august Coimbra donated to books so that
the library may crown its front.'

We enter at the lower level into what was once the academic prison. The prison was installed in 1593 underneath another building and moved to its present location in 1773. The jail was used until 1832 to host students who had committed disciplinary offences. The middle floor was once used for collections that only staff could peruse, but it is now used for temporary exhibitions.

The intermediate floor of the Biblioteca Joanina is used for temporary exhibitions.

As we move upstairs to the main level, I put my camera away. No photos are allowed here. Some travel writers claim that the library, and other parts of the campus provided inspiration to JK Rowling as she was writing the "Harry Potter" series. The three rooms that comprise the library are covered ceiling to floor on two levels with books. The walls and shelves are decorated with small oriental paintings of flora, fauna and figures. Ladders are built into the gilded wooden shelves and can be pulled out to retrieve books from upper shelves. The ceilings are covered with splendid trompe l'oeil murals. The library is also the home to bats, valued tenants who keep the moths and other destructive bugs at bay.

The interior of Saint Michael's Chapel at the University of Coimbra contains
tiled walls and this cheerful ceiling.

Because the campus will close at 1 p.m. for lunch, we hurry on to St. Michael's Chapel and the Royal Palace. The chapel dates back to around the 11th century but the current building was built in the 16th century. The interior is slightly newer (from the 17th and 18th centuries). The chapel's outstanding feature is the church organ, but I fancy the ceiling.

A detail of the interior of St. Michael's Chapel at the University of Coimbra
depicts The Last Supper. 

Doctorate candidates would take their oral exams in secret at night in the
Examination Room of the Paço des Escolas in Coimbra.

The Royal Palace, Paço das Escolas, has a long rich history. The Ceremonial Hall, Sala dos Capelos, was originally the Throne Hall. Ceremonies such as the formal opening of the Academic year, the investiture of the rector, and PhD oral examinations are still held here.

A male frog, in shorts, was mated with a female frog, thus creating the first
artificial condom for animals. This is one of the scientific discoveries exhibited
at the Science Museum at the University of Coimbra.

As the bells signals the end of morning classes, we head to the Science Museum, which doesn't close at midday; its young staff evidently doesn't get a lunch break. The museum, which was formerly classrooms, features hands-on exhibits. Across the street, a natural history wing contains hundreds of animal skeletons and stuffed animals.

Can you spot Ken in this photograph taken at the University of Coimbra's
Science Museum?

Ken contemplates the beauty of the University of Coimbra's Botanical Garden
and calculates how far we've walked today.

We still have a few hours before our bus, so we take a walk in the university's Botanical Garden. Created by an initiative of the Marquess of Pombal in 1772, the garden is a living laboratory for science and nature education, research, and the promotion of biodiversity conservation.

An angel appears to take flight from this church roof along Rua da Sofia
in Coimbra.

The return walk from the university to downtown is much easier, and we have time to stop in some shops and have dinner before heading back to Porto — the subject of my next post.