The Algarve isn't just about beaches and bars

The fortress of Castro Marim is seen from the walls of the village's castle.

Maybe I'm just not cut out for the Algarve. Or maybe living in a small rural village where I spend much of my time relaxing has shaped my idea of what makes a good vacation. I'd much rather get out and see new things, instead of sitting on a sunny terrace sipping cocktails all afternoon. The resort we're staying in Cabanas is a short drive from Tavira, Portugal. It's in Tavira that we spend one of the most delightful afternoons of our trip.

Another view from castle walls: This one in Tavira.

We enter Taviro by crossing this bridge across the Gilão River.

Fado Com Historia in Taviro is dedicated to the preservation of Fado music.

Tavira is a small city along the Gilão river that contains, among other charms, the ruins of a small medieval castle, 37 churches, and a few museums. Tavira is also home to Fado Com Historia, an association that offers daily concerts in the stunning Misericórdia Church. 

Tavira's Misericórdia Church is the stunning setting for daily Fado concerts.

Beautiful tiles line the walls of Misericórdia Church in Tavira.

We'd learned about Fado music on our previous trips to Portugal, but hadn't actually heard it performed live. Fado is traditional, often melancholy folk music accompanied by guitars or mandolins, or a Portuguese guitar. We've gotten our tickets and are among the first to arrive at the church. Soon all seats are full and the two guitar players and handsome singer begin the performance. Melancoly? Maybe. But by the end of the concert we're all clapping and singing along. Believe me, if you travel to the Algarve to sit around or beach hop, trade your flip-flops for shoes, and attend this fabulous concert.

The singer at the Fado concert we attended in Tavira was a past winner
of the national Fado competition.

We're enchanted by this performance on a Portuguese guitar at the Fado concert in Tavira.

On the way to Faro, we've decided to stop in Estoi. Another great decision! Here we visit the Roman Ruins of Milreu, the best preserved such ruins in Southern Portugal. 

The remains of a temple stand at the Roman Ruins of Milreu in Estoi.

In the 1st century AD, the site was an agricultural settlement. In the 2nd and 3rd centuries, it was converted to a luxury villa complete with temple and large bathhouse. Many of the intricate mosaics are intact. Our 1-euro admission allows us to explore the ruins at our own pace.

A number of mosaic walls are intact at the Roman Ruins of Milreu in Estoi. 

Mosaics at the Roman Ruins of Milreu in Estoi are well-preserved.

We enjoy a leisurely and fascinating walk through Roman Ruins of Milreu in Estoi.

Across the salt flats of Castro Marim we have a good view
of the Guadiana International Bridge.

Checking my trip notes, I find little about Faro to write about, so instead I'll skip ahead to Castro Marim near the border of Portugal and Spain. This small village, set along the Guadiana River is considered less touristy and more authentic than much of the Algarve. The main attraction is the Castle of Castro Marim. We pay the embarrassingly low admission of 55 cents and spend the next hour or so exploring the site. 

The Castro Marim fort can be seen from the ramparts of the castle. 

The castle was constructed in the 13th century by orders of King D. Afonso III as part of the fortification of the border between Portugal and Castile. In the 16th century, King D. Manuel I promoted improvements to the castle, which was subsequently fortified during the Portuguese Restoration War (1640-1668). Along with most of southern Portural, the earthquake of 1755 caused major damage.

The castle of Castro Marim once held an important defensive position along
the Portugal-Castile border.

Much of the Castle of Castro Marim was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.

Nothing like exploring to work up an appetite, so we head to the unforgettable Taberna Velho Cavalinho. We're a little early for lunch. but the tavern-keeper invites us to sit on the patio while he finishes his food-prepping. 

Although thousands of visitors a day is usual in the busy high season, today
we have the Taberna Velho Cavalinho in Castro Marim nearly to ourselves. 

Inside, the medieval tavern is dark (lit primarily with candles) and about as authentic as one can imagine. For the next two hours, we're treated like royalty, or at least visiting dignataries. We allow the proprietor to choose our fare after he determines that we're "pretty hungry." Plate after plate of meat-and-veggie pies, fish, cheese, fruit, and ripe red tomatoes appear before us. We're having such a good time that we're only vaguely worried what the bill will be. In the end, however, we leave with plenty of change for our 50-euro bill.  

Eating at Taberna Velho Cavalinho in Castro Marim is an unforgettable experience.

Back in Cabanas, we decide to take advantage of the resort's free boat shuttle to the ocean. (One can't actually get to the beach without taking a boat there.) It's a beautiful day, and we soak in the sun as we walk a mile or so up and down the sandy beach. I suppose it would have been wrong to spend the past two weeks on the coast of Portugal without actually touching the water. 

Our resort in Cabanas provides this transportation to the beach.

Yep, that's the ocean! We finally visit before heading home.

I include a rare picture of myself in today's post since it's one I don't hate.

Cabanas has a nice boardwalk, a big assortment of restaurants, bars, and cacti.