Visit a castle and catch a cruise in Nérac

The town of Nérac has plenty of charm and is the hub for
exploring the Pays d'Albret region.

It's been several years since I last visited in Nérac, the most prominent village in the Pays d'Albret region, but as the end of the summer nears, we visit again. The Albret, located in the southern part of the Lot-et-Garonne department between the Landes and Gascony, has a rich history centered around the Albret family. Jeanne d'Albret was the mother of "Good King Henry," who was King of France from 1589 to 1610. 

Château Henri IV in Nérac houses a pleasant museum.

In an Away to Live blog post I wrote in November 2014, I mentioned that on our first trip to Nérac, we had been unable to visit the city's main site, Château Henri IV because it was closed to the public. On a subsequent trip, I twisted my ankle just after arriving and so our plans to visit the château that day were again foiled. 

This painting by Pierre-Jérôme Lordon depicts Henri IV's
arrival in Libourne after the Battle of Coutras.

Why my interest in this particular castle? Despite having several impressive castles practically in our backyard, Château Henri IV is the only royal residence in our department. The castle was built in the 15th century by Alain d'Albret, great-great-grandfather of Henri IV.  The castle and the Nérac area gained importance when Marguerite d'Angoulême and her court resided there. Grandmother of Henry IV and sister of King (of France) François I, Marguerite is considered the first great feminine writer of the French language and an important figure in the French Humanism movement during the Renaissance. 

A scale model of Nérac's Château Henri IV depicts how the
castle looked before its partial destruction in the 18th century. 

The high corners of rooms in Château Henri IV in Nérac
contain surprising accents. 

The castle was nearly destroyed during the French Revolution. The only remaining part of the massive castle was the northern section, which was restored between 1924 and 1934. Today, Château Henri IV is a compact and interesting museum. Although it's not particularly opulent, it's well worth a visit. For a reasonable admission of 3 euros, we are able to visit the bathroom apartments and kitchen annex, as well as check out an exhibit of costumes similar to those worn by Marguerite's court and various royals.

Spices used to create perfumes are displayed at Château Henri IV in Nérac.

Our lunch cruise menu was ... not this. Rather, a medieval feast
like this might have been served at Château Henri IV in Nérac.

Costumes on display at Château Henri IV in Nérac are typical of
what was worn there in the 16th century.

This costume at Château Henri IV in Nérac inspired
me to research la praguette proéminete, or codpiece.

Another Marguerite, Marguerite of Valois, Henri IV's first wife, was also prominent in the history of Nérac and of France. Queen Margot, as she was known, expanded Le Parc Royal de la Garenne, a lovely promenade along both the Baïse River. A walk along this path takes you from the foot of the castle past several fountains, most notably La Fontaine de Fleurette, over a footbridge and past the octagonal Pavillon des Bains du Roy. The royal gardens are free and are open all year round.

In addition to Nérac's old town center, cross the Baïse River and
explore the neighborhoods around Église Notre-Dame.

The towers of Château Henri IV in Nérac can be seen from
across the Baïse River. 

We don't stroll along the royal garden paths on the day of our most recent visit to Nérac. Instead, I've booked us a lunch cruise. Les Croisières du Prince Henry offers 1-hour guided tours on the river and boat rentals. In the summer, lunch is offered with advance reservations.

We pass this traditional French riverside home on our 
Baïse River cruise.

Each passenger must show their passe sanitaire, but I'm still a bit wary when we're seated at long banquet tables, elbow to elbow with our fellow diners. I had expected the windows to be open, but they aren't, maybe because it's a cool, cloudy day. The wine and other local spirits flow freely, but as this is lunch and we have the drive home ahead of us, we stick to sips. The fig-based aperitif, Coucougnettes from Aurian L'Artisan Liquoriste, is especially good, and I buy a bottle to take home at the gift shop after the cruise. My husband enjoys eating both his and my paté and fois gras starters while I enjoy the melon. The magret de canard is overcooked and dry, but the baked tomatoes are tasty, and I eagerly accept a second helping. The meal finishes with a yummy tarte aux pommes and coffee. 

Our cruise boat turns back toward Nérac after reaching this
mill along the Baïse River.

Don't let this less-than-rave food review discourage you from experiencing this lunch cruise for yourself (unless you don't eat duck). It's a relaxing and novel way to pass a few hours. But do plan to spend an hour or so after lunch strolling the lovely paths along the Baïse.

An arch of Nérac's Vieux Pont (old bridge) frames the Baïse River.

Walk through Nérac's Tanneries neighborhood
on your way to the old bridge.

If you're heading to Nérac this month, note that there will be events at Château Henri IV during Les Journées Européennes du Patrimoine, September 18-19, 2021.

Baïse-ic Instinct: Nérac

Even the best planning sometimes doesn’t work out: On a recent trip to Nérac, we manage to miss the city’s most famous site. Yet we still enjoy our visit to this pretty riverside town. 

View of the rooftops of Nérac, in the Lot-et-Garonne

Nérac is located in the south central part of the Lot-et-Garonne department, in the Albret area. The town straddles the Baïse River, and our visit takes us back and forth across Pont Vieux and Pont Neuf. 

It’s market day in Nérac and the town is bustling, even more so because it’s the start of the annual cartoon art festival. Taking place in October, Les Rencontres Chaland honors a different cartoonist each year. In 2014 the exhibition features Charles Burns. (The monthlong festival ends on Nov. 8. For more information, click here.) During our short visit, we stop by a couple of the numerous venues associated with the event.

Our first stop is, as usual, the tourist office, where we are given a map and an English translation. Our self-guided tour takes us through the market and past le centre Haussman where an unusual clock catches my eye.

Candied fruit in the Nérac market

A clock on the façade of le centre Haussman, the old palais de la
Chambre des Comptes, which was restored in 1995

Along the way, we pass by colombage homes and pick up a sandwich to eat on the banks of the Baïse. In the high season, there would be boats filled with tourists on the river, but today, we watch workers polishing and maintaining one of the old garbares.

Colombage (half-timber) buildings in Nerac

Tidying up a riverboat on the Baïse in Nérac

After lunch, we continue along the south bank through the Parc Royal de la Garenne. This shady path takes us through the former royal hunting grounds and past several fountains. 

Mosaïques from the Gallo-Roman era were discovered in
le parc de la Garenne in Nérac in 1832.

La fontaine de Fleurette in le parc de la Garenne in Nérac

Fleurette was the daughter of the king’s gardener.

La fontaine Saint Jean in Nérac dates to the 15th century.

The path along the river in le parc de la Garenne in Nérac

La fontaine des Marguerite in Nérac

On our walk back to Nérac on the north side of the river, we pass le Pavillon des Bains du Roy, a 16th century changing room used by ladies when bathing in the Baïse.

Le Pavillon des Bains du Roy in Nérac 

Once back in town, we visit the stately L’Église Saint-Nicholas. Built on the ruins of a Roman edifice, the neoclassical church dates to the 18th century. 

Interior of L’Église Saint-Nicolas in Nérac 

We enjoy some cool refreshments while we wait for what we had anticipated would be the day’s highlight, a visit to Musée du Château Henri IV, which was scheduled to open at 3 o’clock. Alas, as the opening time come and go, and the museum’s doors remain locked, we grow restless. Eventually, the museum’s guide emerges and explains that a private tour is scheduled for 3:30 and she won’t be opening for another hour. We briefly consider sneaking in with the private group, but opt to call it a day. 

Musée du Château Henri IV in Nérac 

Musée du Château Henri IV in Nérac 

Une femme âgée knits in her courtyard behind Musée du Château Henri IV
in Nérac.

The courtyard near the entry to Musée du Château Henri IV in Nérac

But even without a look inside the château, we agree it has been a great day. Nérac is now on our list of destinations to take out-of-town guests, so we’re confident we’ll catch up with Henry IV next time we’re there.