Visit a castle and catch a cruise in Nérac

The town of Nérac has plenty of charm and is the hub for
exploring the Pays d'Albret region.

It's been several years since I last visited in Nérac, the most prominent village in the Pays d'Albret region, but as the end of the summer nears, we visit again. The Albret, located in the southern part of the Lot-et-Garonne department between the Landes and Gascony, has a rich history centered around the Albret family. Jeanne d'Albret was the mother of "Good King Henry," who was King of France from 1589 to 1610. 

Château Henri IV in Nérac houses a pleasant museum.

In an Away to Live blog post I wrote in November 2014, I mentioned that on our first trip to Nérac, we had been unable to visit the city's main site, Château Henri IV because it was closed to the public. On a subsequent trip, I twisted my ankle just after arriving and so our plans to visit the château that day were again foiled. 

This painting by Pierre-Jérôme Lordon depicts Henri IV's
arrival in Libourne after the Battle of Coutras.

Why my interest in this particular castle? Despite having several impressive castles practically in our backyard, Château Henri IV is the only royal residence in our department. The castle was built in the 15th century by Alain d'Albret, great-great-grandfather of Henri IV.  The castle and the Nérac area gained importance when Marguerite d'Angoulême and her court resided there. Grandmother of Henry IV and sister of King (of France) François I, Marguerite is considered the first great feminine writer of the French language and an important figure in the French Humanism movement during the Renaissance. 

A scale model of Nérac's Château Henri IV depicts how the
castle looked before its partial destruction in the 18th century. 

The high corners of rooms in Château Henri IV in Nérac
contain surprising accents. 

The castle was nearly destroyed during the French Revolution. The only remaining part of the massive castle was the northern section, which was restored between 1924 and 1934. Today, Château Henri IV is a compact and interesting museum. Although it's not particularly opulent, it's well worth a visit. For a reasonable admission of 3 euros, we are able to visit the bathroom apartments and kitchen annex, as well as check out an exhibit of costumes similar to those worn by Marguerite's court and various royals.

Spices used to create perfumes are displayed at Château Henri IV in Nérac.

Our lunch cruise menu was ... not this. Rather, a medieval feast
like this might have been served at Château Henri IV in Nérac.

Costumes on display at Château Henri IV in Nérac are typical of
what was worn there in the 16th century.

This costume at Château Henri IV in Nérac inspired
me to research la praguette proéminete, or codpiece.

Another Marguerite, Marguerite of Valois, Henri IV's first wife, was also prominent in the history of Nérac and of France. Queen Margot, as she was known, expanded Le Parc Royal de la Garenne, a lovely promenade along both the Baïse River. A walk along this path takes you from the foot of the castle past several fountains, most notably La Fontaine de Fleurette, over a footbridge and past the octagonal Pavillon des Bains du Roy. The royal gardens are free and are open all year round.

In addition to Nérac's old town center, cross the Baïse River and
explore the neighborhoods around Église Notre-Dame.

The towers of Château Henri IV in Nérac can be seen from
across the Baïse River. 

We don't stroll along the royal garden paths on the day of our most recent visit to Nérac. Instead, I've booked us a lunch cruise. Les Croisières du Prince Henry offers 1-hour guided tours on the river and boat rentals. In the summer, lunch is offered with advance reservations.

We pass this traditional French riverside home on our 
Baïse River cruise.

Each passenger must show their passe sanitaire, but I'm still a bit wary when we're seated at long banquet tables, elbow to elbow with our fellow diners. I had expected the windows to be open, but they aren't, maybe because it's a cool, cloudy day. The wine and other local spirits flow freely, but as this is lunch and we have the drive home ahead of us, we stick to sips. The fig-based aperitif, Coucougnettes from Aurian L'Artisan Liquoriste, is especially good, and I buy a bottle to take home at the gift shop after the cruise. My husband enjoys eating both his and my paté and fois gras starters while I enjoy the melon. The magret de canard is overcooked and dry, but the baked tomatoes are tasty, and I eagerly accept a second helping. The meal finishes with a yummy tarte aux pommes and coffee. 

Our cruise boat turns back toward Nérac after reaching this
mill along the Baïse River.

Don't let this less-than-rave food review discourage you from experiencing this lunch cruise for yourself (unless you don't eat duck). It's a relaxing and novel way to pass a few hours. But do plan to spend an hour or so after lunch strolling the lovely paths along the Baïse.

An arch of Nérac's Vieux Pont (old bridge) frames the Baïse River.

Walk through Nérac's Tanneries neighborhood
on your way to the old bridge.

If you're heading to Nérac this month, note that there will be events at Château Henri IV during Les Journées Européennes du Patrimoine, September 18-19, 2021.