Showing posts with label La Rochelle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label La Rochelle. Show all posts

Thursday, February 24, 2022

La Rochelle's towers and a wetlands walk

La Rochelle has become one of our favorite destinations. 

During our recent trip to La Rochelle, the weather was clear and cold. Now that we're fairly frequent visitors to this beautiful city on France's west coast, thanks to having family living there now, we're less likely to sightsee. However, this trip we visited the city's maritime fortifications. We also took a lovely walk along new paths through an urban marsh, le marais de Tasdon.

The Towers of La Rochelle

An artist's view of the port of La Rochelle in the 18th century

A 21st-century view of La Rochelle's port

La Rochelle's most recognizable landmarks are its three towers. In 1372, after being bounced back and forth between France and England rule, the city became autonomous. La Rochelle's port was strengthened by the construction of two towers: Tour Saint-Nicolas and Tour de la Chaîne, the Chain Tower. These two towers became the symbol of a renewed alliance with France's King Charles V.  Soon afterwards, La Tour de la Lanterne, the Lantern Tower, completed the trio. 

Tour Saint-Nicholas in La Rochelle

According to the website tours-la-rochelle.fr, all three towers were built to be lived in, but two of them, Saint-Nicolas and Chaîne, were used as prisons for Huguenots, foreign sailors, and military prisoners. Lanterne was used to disarm boats entering the harbor and as a lighthouse.

Looking across the La Rochelle's harbor from one of its towers

A visit to the towers includes climbing a lot of stairs, with the lots of great views along the way. The walls of many rooms are etched with intricate graffiti of former occupants. 

La Rochelle's other two towers as viewed from
Tour de la Lanterne 

This engraved sea scene was likely created by a sailor held
captive in the Lantern Tower in La Rochelle.

A colorful view from one of La Rochelle's towers


Port Neuf can be seen in the distance from La Tour de la Lanterne
in La Rochelle.

The towers are open every day (closed the first Monday of the month) from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2:15-5:30 p.m. (6 p.m. in the summer). One ticket (9.50€) allows access to all three towers.


Le marais de Tasdon

The Tasdon marsh is located two kilometers from the center
of La Rochelle.

The Tasdon marsh is a network of paved paths and footbridges through an area of La Rochelle that had been salt marshes since the Middle Ages. In the 1930s, the marsh became a cattle grazing area. In 1962, the area was cut off from the sea with the construction of the Moulinette dam, and then was partially filled in when a new neighborhood was constructed. 

More than 150 species of birds can be found at Tasdon marsh
in La Rochelle, although we saw hardly any at all on our walk.

This wetlands area has seen a lot of changes in recent years, with a focus on the environment. I asked a friend who lives in La Rochelle if she walks at le marais de Tasdon, and she said she had never heard of it. This could be why we saw few other walkers on the crisp sunny day of our stroll there.

A friendly walker waves at us up in a watch tower at Tasdon
marsh in La Rochelle 

We saw few birds on our winter walk in La Rochelle's Tasdon
wetlands, but we did spot this goat. 



Friday, November 1, 2013

Une petite escapade d'automne to Charente-Maritime

A colorful carousel is a site 
common to nearly every French ville.
Since we returned to France from our three-week trip to the U.S., Ken has spent nearly every day trimming our unruly pommier (apple tree). With the weather getting colder every day, we decide une petite escapade is in order, so we head several hours north to the Charente-Maritime department.
Cognac
The guidebooks tell us we must taste Cognac on our first stop, but we have a long road ahead and neither of us particularly love Cognac (the drink). But we stop for coffee and a W.C. break. Ken is most impressed that a rugby team is at the café, having coffee and playing cards.


Next, we head to Saintes. While we ponder where to eat lunch, we check out the Roman Arch of Germanicus (AD 19), which used to mark the entrance to the only bridge over the lower Charente River.

Arch of Germanicus, Saintes
Arch of Germanicus, Saintes


For lunch, Ken boldly tries the plat de jour (something to do with veal liver ... mon dieu!), and I choose a big bowl of fruits de mer.


Saintes
Saintes
Saintes

We work off lunch with a long walk through the city's garden, and admire other landmarks as we search of Saintes's first- century Roman amphitheater.





It's a longer trek than we had anticipated, and by the time we get to the amphitheater, we decide to skip the entrance, take some pictures from afar, and head back to the car.

Roman amphitheater, Saintes
Roman amphitheater, Saintes
Roman amphitheater, Saintes
Unlike our usual mode, we intend to be footloose and fancy free on this trip. I haven't made any room reservations; our friends have assured us we would have no trouble finding places to stay. I had written down the addresses of some promising gites and chambres de l'hôtel. Good thing, too! Our first two stops (about 50 km from Santes) come up empty: the first is locked up tight and the second is full. We pull out our emergency phone and finally find a place (50 km back the way we have come). Turns out we hit the mutha load: a gracious welcome, a comfy room and a phenomenal breakfast in the morning, complete with a wide assortment of homemade confitures.

La Rochelle
It's raining as we say goodbye to our hosts, Patricia and Daniel at Magasin de la Coinche. If we ever find ourselves in Chérac, we certainly will stay at this B&B again. But now, it's on to our primary destination: La Rochelle.

A few nervous minutes of big-city driving, and we are safely parked in an underground garage. With my 20-centime guidebook procured from the office de tourisme in hand, and with a gusty vent blowing, we're ready to explore this belle ville maritime.
La Rochelle
La Rochelle




La Rochelle
La Rochelle



As is our custom, each day at noon, we are hungry and it's time for déjeuner. I tackle more crevettes and their cousins, this time in a delightful salad. Ken has something else: decidedly NOT veal liver.

Mid-afternoon, we decide to let our fingers do the walkin' and we call about a dozen B&B's with no luck; everyplace is full. So we decide to look for a room in one of La Rochelle many small hotels.


The view from our room at
Hôtel de Paris, La Rochelle
The receptionist at the Hôtel de Paris hands us the key to No. 3 and urges us to check out the chambre. Converted from two rooms into one, the room is huge and quite clean. It overlooks one of La Rochelle's charming little shopping streets. Oui! This will be more than acceptable, we decide.

La Rochelle
La Rochelle

Down the block, there is another carousel to photograph on Place Verdun. (Love those merry-go-rounds!) And in the morning, we visit La Rochelle's colorful marché.

La Rochelle
La Rochelle


Rochefort
Rochefort
We finally are graced with a blue sky when we arrive in Rochefort. Another city with with a rich maritime history, Rochefort's main attractions are ... not stinky cheese, if that's what you're thinking ... its shipyard and Corderie Royale, where visitors can explore the art of rope-making.


Our last stop is the tiny, picturesque village of Talmont sur Gironde (pop. 100). The village was built in 1284 by England's King Edward the first. Our brochure says Talmont is a "peninsula on the estuary of the Gironde river (the biggest of Europe)." (I'm not sure if the pamphlet refers to the peninsula, the river, or the estuary, but I suspect it is the estuary that is the continent's largest.) Since it's off-season, Talmont is pretty much closed up, but the day is glorious, and Ken and I agree that our time here has been well-spent. What a perfect ending to our impromptu little autumn getaway.

Talmont sur Gironde
Talmont sur Gironde

Talmont sur Gironde
Approaching Eglise Ste-Radegonde, Talmont sur Gironde