A whole lot of Joanie going on in Orléans

This fountain is located in Orléans, one of France's oldest cities.

Our recent trip to Orléans included some delightful surprises including a stop along the way where we had a great lunch and met a friendly woman at a quaint little museum filled with American memorabilia from the 1950s. Our primary destination revealed Joan of Arc around nearly every corner, as well as a fantastic park and a poignant museum created to remember the horrors of WWII.

The U.S. Museum in Châteauroux commemorates the era
when a  NATO base was located here.

We've pinpointed the city of Châteauroux as our lunch stop on our way to Orléans in north-central France. Once we've hooked up at the charging station (it's available and working!) we head to the city center. On our way we snag the last available table at a small boutique hotel dining room and have a delicious lunch. Then it's on to the Tourism Office, where a number of strolls are suggested. Because we don't have a lot of time, we decide to head to the US Museum. Now somewhat derided by residents of Châteauroux, this small museum turns out to be a charming remembrance of the years 1951-1967. This is when the city was full of American military personnel and their families who were stationed at the NATO base here. 

The Air Force serviceman who is represented at the U.S. Museum in
Châteauroux visited the museum decades after the NATA base here closed. 

Small items spark memories at the U.S. Museum in Châteauroux.

Our short visit is surprisingly enjoyable: So many of the household items and toys are things we remember having when we were kids. We strike up a conversation with a staff member who shares her own memories of the American friends she had as a child. (We try unsuccessfully to meet up with one of her friends in Reno when we are there the following week.) 

Jeanne d'Arc on horseback is the centerpiece of Place du Martroi in Orléans. 

According to Wikipedia, there are two statues of Jeanne d'Arc in Orléans, but it seems that tributes to the Maid of Orléans are everywhere. The first known monument to Jeanne d'Arc was erected in this city in 1456. The legendary national savior/warrior/martyr is still honored in Orléans, the site of a victory led by the 17-year-old Jeanne d'Arc that turned the tide in the Hundred Years' War between France and England. Her actual stay in Orléans was only 10 days, but everywhere she slept, ate, or worshipped is commemorated here.

Exhibits about The Maid of Orléans are presented at Maison Jeanne d'Arc,
which wasn't actually her home.

This painting and sculpture are displayed at Hôtel Groslot in Orléans.

This painting at Hôtel Groslot in Orléans originally depicted
someone else, and later it was altered to honor Jeanne d'Arc.

Artist Dany Dufour's take on The Maid of Orléans is exhibited at Hôtel Groslot.

Rue Jeanne d'Arc leads to Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans. 

The Gothic-style Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans has sustained
damages from wars several times since its completion in 1829.

In addition to Jeanne d'Arc, Orléans is known for its stunning Sainte-Croix Cathédrale. The gothic-style cathedral took 542 years to build and contains relics from the 7th century. We're delighted to discover that the building is free to visit. (This isn't always the case, and I'm reluctant to pay admission to a church.) Both the exterior and interior of the cathedral are beautiful. 

These gargoyles keep watch at Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans.

The length of Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans is just
one meter shorter than that of Notre-Dame in Paris.

New stained-glass windows at Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans
were installed during renovations at the end of the 20th century.

A statue of Jeanne d'Arc stands at the entrance to Hôtel Groslot in Orléans.

The following day, we visit Hôtel Groslot, another free site. Originally a private residence built by lawyer and bailiff Jacques Groslot between 1530 and 1550, the building became Orléans' city hall during the French Revolution. It's a beautiful Renaissance building full of paintings and tapestries showcasing the exquisite taste of its original owner. And yes, there are a few tributes to Jeanne d'Arc here too. 

Maison Morlon along Quai Barentin is a rare example of Art Nouveau in Orléans.

Orléans is located along the Loire River, and one afternoon between rain showers we take a stroll and spot one of the few buildings here in the Art Nouveau style. A bike tour of other examples is suggested by the Val de Loire tourism office. 

A château is seen from the rose garden in Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.  

We've dedicated a half day to visit Parc Floral de la Source, which has the deserved designation as "Jardin Remarquable." The park contains acres and acres of gardens known for their diverse species and plant collections. I especially enjoy the Butterfly House, which, along with an exotic bird collection, a herd of Chilean Flaminoes and a miniature farm, comprise the fauna portion of the park. We're here the right time of year to enjoy the Rose Garden, but are a bit too late for the Iris Garden. 

Sculptures are scattered among the gardens in Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.

Butterflies live among the banana and papaya trees, vanilla and ficus plants,
hibiscus flowers and orchids at Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.

This pair of butterflies at Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans seem to be chatting.

Several exotic bird habitats are located at Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.

Chilean Flamingoes are the emblematic bird of Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.

Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans is constantly being developed
and renewed for biodiversity reasons.

Aline (1939-1942), the symbol of the atrocities that occurred in
the internment camps in the Loriet region, is memorialized at the
Cercil Vel d'Hiv Children's Memorial Museum in Orléans

This area of France didn't escape the atrocities of World War II. We've chosen our last day in Orléans to visit the Cercil Vel d'Hiv Children's Memorial Museum, a history and remembrance center that traces the history of the internment camps in the Loiret region. Thousands of Jews and others were detained at the camps of Beaune-la-Rolande, Pithiviers, and Jargeau before being sent to death camps in Poland. Most notable were the 4,000 children along with their mothers who were arrested by French police at the Vel d'Hiv roundup in Paris in July 1942. The Memorial chose one child named Aline to be its symbol. The memorial is a sobering and important remembrance of these tragedies.

For more information

US Museum, Chateauroux

Parc Floral de la Source

Cercil Musée Mémorial des Enfants du Vel d'Hiv

Unforgettable Krakow

Cloth Hall is the centerpiece of Rynek Glowny, Krakow's main square.

This post is full of pictures — about twice as many as usual — thanks to the glorious spring weather my sister and I were graced with on our recent trip to Krakow. (I take much better photos when the sky is blue.) We recently spent three days exploring this beautiful city in southern Poland. Krakow was spared the destruction many European cities received in World War II because of its quick surrender to the Nazis, thus, many splendid old buildings are intact. The city boasts a huge central square, great museums, churches, a massive palace, and hearty delicious cuisine. I'll write about the most impactful part of our visit — a tour of Auschwitz and Birkenau — at the end of this post. 

The trees are blooming during our early spring visit to Krakow.

Our flight from Paris arrives early, and it's an easy train trip into the city where we have several hours to explore before we can check in to our apartment. We head to Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter. The neighborhood is known these days for its trendy boutiques, galleries, and bars, as well as its lively nightlife. 

But we're here at noon, so our minds are on lunch. We could not have found a more kitchy place than the colorful restaurant offering an array of pierogi. We nearly pass on it, but I'm charmed by the waitresses in their traditional Polish costumes. The little dumplings are delicious and extremely filling. 

Kazimierz is also where you'll find Poland's oldest synagogue, the Jewish Museum, the Galicia Jewish Museum, the Remuh and New Jewish cemeteries, and several notable churches.     

We pick this colorful place for lunch on our first day in Krakow.

Usually filled with potatoes and cheese, the pierogi in
Krakow are offered with an array of fillings. 

Since our backpacks are getting heavy, we head back towards our apartment, stopping for a coffee in the city's main square. Krakow's Rynek Glowny is the 40,000-square-foot centerpiece of the city's medieval Old Town. Sukiennice Cloth Hall stands in the center. Once a hub of commerce and trade, the long hall contains dozens of souvenir and craft shops. Ringing the plaza are restaurants and bars. St. Mary's Basilica is situated on the west side of the plaza, and Town Hall Tower stands at the southern end.  

Town Hall Tower is the only remaining section of
Krakow's 13th century town hall.

'The Head' is a controversial art piece located in Krakow's Main Square.

Underneath Cloth Hall, a new museum has been created from the archaeological excavation of the plaza that began in 2005. Foundations of market stalls, workshops, and a cemetery were unearthed, along with valuable objects from the 13th-14th centuries. Instead of relocating these discoveries to a museum, the city built a museum on top of the excavation site that visitors can access via Cloth Hall. Rynek Underground Museum is fascinating, but rather confusing. 

A hologram of a medieval craftsman is tucked in a corner
at Rynek Underground in Krakow.

We would have been well served getting an audio guide or reading up a bit before going. We spend a lot of time looking at rocks and soil layers before we get to the good stuff. It's dark in here and the signage and exhibition layout map are nearly impossible to read, although there are dozens of touchscreens that provide detailed information. Towards the end of our visit, we find a series of rooms showing films that depict the history of Krakow. I would have rather viewed these films at the start of our visit. 

Remains of 14-th century traders' stalls are
featured at Rynek Underground in Krakow.

Films depicting life in Krakow through the centuries are shown in
what were once the cellars of the Rich Stalls at Rynek Underground. 

We've scheduled a morning visit to Wawel Castle. Our stroll there takes us past several notable sites including the former home of Pope John Paul II, a beloved figure in Krakow. 

This mosaic of Pope John Paul II is located at the
Episcopal Palace, where he lived when he was
Archbishop of Krakow. 

Twelve apostles stand in front of Saints Peter and Paul Church
in Krakow. It may be Poland's oldest Baroque-style building. 

We see Sandomierska Tower on our way up Wawel Hill in Krakow.

Wawel Hill is considered to be Poland's most important historic and cultural site. Wawel Castle, a cathedral, several exhibitions, a tower, and even a dragon's den are found here, all of which can be visited separately. The castle was home to Polish kings for centuries, and today it is one of the country's premier art museums.

It's a beautiful spring morning on Wawel Hill in Krakow.

We've booked access to the castle's first and second floors and are given an audio guide upon our arrival. The guide has been extremely well designed. Highlights in each room are explained, and we are invited to take our time before moving on to the next room. Since our "guide" can sense where we are, it's almost as if we're on a personal tour with an actual human. I'm kind of wistful when our tour is over and we have to say goodbye. 

Tapestries from the Sigismund II Augustus collection are
displayed at Wawel Castle in Krakow. 

We admire the detail of a decorative heater at Wawel Castle in Krakow.

Krakow is relatively flat, but I find a good city view from a
window at Wawel Castle.

This gold ceiling is located in the Royal Apartments at Wawel
Castle in Krakow. 

Senators Hall, also known as Dancing Hall, is the largest room
in Wawel Castle in Krakow.

The Vistula River and beyond are seen from Wawel Hill in Krakow.

So much sightseeing means we need to power up from time to time. Polish cuisine is very hearty, but there are many options for vegetarians in Krakow too. Our apartment is a block away from Stary Kleparz market hall where we find an array of products we wish we had room in our luggage to take home. My sister does manage to fit some cottage cheese in her back pack. 

Cottage cheese, incidentally, is the preferred topping for bagels here. Although bagels were invented in Krakow, they aren't as popular as obwarzanek krawkowski, a braided ring of dough much like a bagel (but not as good, in my opinion). My sister and I decide to take a class in making these decidedly local snacks at the Zywe Muzeum Obwarzanka, or Krakow Bagel Museum. 

Another hearty meal in Krakow is this huge potato pancake
smothered with goulash. 

Stary Kleparz is a Krakow market hall filled with tempting foods.

We show off the obwarzanek krawkowski that we made at the
Krakow Bagel Museum. This popular local snack is sold on 
nearly every street corner.

The Barbican in Krakow is a premier example of medieval military
architecture in Europe. 

Old Town Krakow is ringed by Planty Park, a welcoming place to take a break.

We've booked a tour of Auschwitz and Birkenau through KrakowTrip.com. The driver picks us up at our apartment just before 8 a.m., and we're joined in the van by three other couples. The drive to Auschwitz takes about an hour and a half. The parking lot is packed with tour busses and cars. We're told that around 10,000 visitors will be visiting today. It's gratifying to see so many people, the school groups in particular, who have come here to bear witness. 

We're merged with some other groups so there's around 30 of us, and we have a dedicated guide. We spend several hours winding our way through the buildings and grounds of the largest of the German Nazi concentration and extermination camps. Great care has been taken with preserving and displaying the camp. Unfortunately, it would be very challenging for those with limited mobility to take this tour, as there are a lot of stairs. We continue on to Auschwitz II-Birkenau, where around 90% of the Auschwitz prisoners were killed. 

I do not take any photos during our visit. I won't need them to remind me of what I see here. This is a pilgrimage that everyone should make, and it should be a mandatory prerequisite for all world leaders. 

For more information, visit the Auschwitz Museum and Memorial website, Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Late winter in Provence is all about pink, not lavender

Thousands of Flamants roses hang out in the Camargue region of France.

After five mostly damp days along the Costa Brava, we head back to France to spend a few days in Provence. Too early in the year for lavender, we opt instead to visit ancient Roman sites and are thrilled by close encounters with pink flamingos. 

Surrounded by Corinthian column capitals, Maison Carrée
in Nîmes is considered an architectural masterpiece 

We've decided to spend our first day in Nîmes. Tucked between the Cévennes mountains and the  Mediterranean, this splendid city dates back to the 6th century B.C. Striking remains of its Roman heritage can still be explored. We buy the three-site ticket that gives us entry to Maison Carrée, a pristine Roman temples; Les Arènes, considered to be the world's best-conserved Roman amphitheater; and Tour Magne, or Big Tower, which stands above a Roman sanctuary and was part of the Augustan walls. Clearly, we have a lot of walking ahead of us today. 

Built at the end of the 1st century, Les Arènes in Nîmes could hold
more than 24,000 spectators of gladiator fights and other events. 

The Roman amphitheater Les Arènes in Nîmes is still used
for bullfights, concerts and sporting events.   

The Quay de la Fontaine leads to the famed gardens in Nîmes.

After a breathless exploration of the amphitheater, we set out for the Jardins de la Fontaine. Built around Roman sanctuaries and fountains, the gardens were transformed in the 18th and 19th centuries, and are said to be among the first public gardens in Europe. After admiring various sculptures, the Temple of Diana, and the grand stairways around a spring, we begin the steep walk to the Tour Magne.

This smiley statue is located in Jardins de la Fontaine in Nîmes.

No one know the backstory behind the Temple of Diana in Nîmes.

Tour Magne in Nîmes was built over an Celtic tower
as part of the city's Augustan walls.   

The views from the top of Tour Magne in Nîmes are, of course, spectacular.

Full up on antiquity, we head to lunch before knocking about Nîmes for the afternoon. I'm really delighted with this very walkable city, and I add it to my list of France favorites.

The Romans won a victory over Egypt in 31 B.C. and created a coin
to celebrate. That coin, minted in Nîmes, had a crocodile on it.
Yada yada yada, the crocodile is the symbol of Nîmes. 

We're now off to Arles. The centerpiece of this thousand-year-old city on the Rhone River, is yet another Roman site: a two-level amphitheater that hosts shows, concerts, and bullfights — both the kind where no bull is hurt (the tauromachie) and the traditional (barbaric) kind. 

This Roman amphitheater in Arles was plundered as a quarry
over the centuries, but what remains is an impressive site.

Beyond the Roman sites, Arles is known for being home for a number of years to Vincent Van Gogh, and visitors can retrace his steps to see where he painted some of his best known masterpieces. He painted 300 pieces while he lived here, but none are housed in the city's museums.

Primatial Basilica of Saint Trophimes in Arles was once a cathedral.

The Romanesque-Gothic church of Notre Dame de la Major
in Arles was built in the 12th century.

After a morning of walking around Arles, we head south to the Camargue. This sprawling wetlands park attracts those wanting to ride horses, cycle, hike, or just chill on a remote beach. Visitors keep their eyes open to spot wild white horses or bulls. But for me, I've come in search of les flamants roses: pink flamingos.

I'm fascinated watching the pink flamingos in the Camargue.

I wouldn't call myself a bird enthusiast, but I've heard a lot about these flamboyant pink birds, and I can't recall seeing them except in a zoo. At the Parc Ornithologique Pont du Gau we are handed a trail map and pointed in the right direction. After admiring some egrets, ducks, and herons, we turn a corner and suddenly come upon hundreds of flamingos. Following the path which takes us at times to the water's edge, we'll see thousands of these beautiful birds. No exaggeration: An estimated 10,000 flamingos come here each year to breed. 

Flamingos' pink color comes from the algae and shellfish they eat.

Flamingos are drawn to the open, salty marshes and ponds of the Camargue. 

In addition to pink flamingos, the Camargue is home to hundreds
of species of birds, like this gray heron.

And onto another city packed with history: Avignon.

The huge Palais des Papes dominates the skyline of Avignon.

It's the final day of our visit to Provence, and the weather has turned wicked. Our guide on a walking tour of Avignon claims it's the coldest day of the winter. This city is best known for its sprawling Papal Palace. In the 14th century, Avignon was the seat of the Christian world. Nine successive popes lived in this massive Gothic palace. These days, visitors are given tablets that provide a virtual tour of the 25 rooms that are open to the public.  

Nine popes lived in the Papal Palace in Avignon in the 14th century.

Rather than committing to a few hours (and hefty admission price) to the Papal Palace, we check out a couple of Avignon's free museums. The Petit Palais Museum houses a lot of Italian religious art, much of it part of the Louvre collection. More to my taste is the Palais du Roure, a 15th century manor that was once the cultural hotspot for Provençal culture.  

Avignon's Petit Palais Museum houses religious art and artifacts.

Palais du Roure invites visitors to admire the art and furnishings
inside a stately mansion in Avignon.

Avignon's Grand Opera has been hosting performances for 200 years.

Sur le pont d'Avignon, a song I memorized as a child, claims that people used to dance here. Alas, that's probably only a tale as the bridge is very narrow. Once nearly a kilometer long and featuring 20 arches, the Pont d'Avignon fell victim to the Rhone's many floods. Today just a small bit of the bridge remains, which one can visit, but not actually dance upon. 

This trompe l'œil shows Picasso gazing out a window.
He was living in Avignon when World War I began.

A gilded statue of the Virgin Mary sits atop Avignon's cathedral.

For more information:

Nîmes Jardins de la Fontaine
Parc Ornithologique Pont du Gau