A dancing garden is on display in Villeneuve-sur-Lot

Flowers of light come to life in the Extra Natural 2021 exhibition
by Miguel Chevalier at Musée de Gajac in Villeneuve-sur-Lot.

The original walls of Villeneuve-sur-Lot lined the Lot River.

European Heritage Days (Journées du Patrimoine) is a perfect chance to get out and see some sites that are unavailable the rest of the year, take a tour of a town you've been meaning to visit, or treat yourself to a fresh look at your own little village. The weekend takes place each September; this year it was on the 18th and 19th, so last Sunday, we headed to Villeneuve-sur-Lot, a small-ish city about 45 minutes from home. 

Villeneuve-sur-Lot's Musée de Gajac is located along
the Lot River on the site of an old mill.

Our first stop is Musée de Gajac, a small arts museum. In addition to a very nice collection of paintings, drawings, and sculptures, the museum is hosting a special exhibition through Oct. 24, 2021, which turns out to be the delightful highlight of our day. Digital artist Miguel Chevalier's Extra-Natural 2021 includes colorful panels and a light show inspired by nature. The artist's vision of weird, luminescent, and dazzling exotic flowers is truly mesmerizing.

Miguel Chevalier's Extra Natural incredible garden
was created digitally. It's on exhibit at Musée de Gajac 
in Villeneuve-sur-Lot through Oct. 24, 2021. 

Artist Georges Rohner's Fenêtre sur la rue Bonaparte
is on display at Musée de Gajac in Villeneuve-sur-Lot.

La Fête du Grand-Père by Maurice Realier-Dumas
is on display at Musée de Gajac in Villeneuve-sur-Lot.

We could have lingered at the garden ballet all day, but we have more on our agenda for the afternoon. 

Sunday afternoon is quiet in Villeneuve-sur-Lot's main square.

Under a rain-threatening sky, we take our time walking through Villeneuve-sur-Lot, a bastide town known for its half-timbered (colombage) buildings and its vast church made of bricks, a material we don't often see in this part of France. The historical center is quiet today, and we notice that not all of our fellow pedestrians are adhering to the mask mandate. 

A sign of the times goes ignored by many of the people we
come across during our afternoon in Villeneuve-sur-Lot.

Villeneuve-sur-Lot's impressive church, Église Sainte-Catherine,
is less than a century old.

An organist is rehearsing when we step inside Église Sainte-Catherine, a Roman-Byzantine-style church built in the early 20th century — brand-new, compared to most churches around here, but impressive nonetheless. 

The bell tower of Église Sainte-Catherine in
Villeneuve-sur-Lot was inspired by the Saint-Sernin
basilica in Toulouse. 

We cross the Lot River via Pont des Cieutats and eventually arrive at la Foire Bio, a special outdoor market where we peruse a variety of stands selling organic food and other goods. 

Le Vieux Pont is one of several bridges crossing the Lot River
in Villeneuve-sur-Lot.

We end our visit to Villeneuve-sur-Lot with a stop at the Tour de Paris, one of two remaining city gates built in the 14th century. As part of Heritage Days, we are allowed to climb the narrow stone steps to the first floor of the tower, where we check out a small exhibit and the view down Rue de Paris. 

During Journées du Patrimoine, we are able to
take in this rare view from the Tour de Paris
in Villeneuve-sur-Lot.

Villeneuve-sur-Lot is the center of the area called Le Grand Villeneuvois, which includes the towns of Laroque Timbaut, Dolmayrac, Sainte-Livarde-sur-Lot, and Casseneuil, as well as the stunning little village of Pujols. We've visited many of these places before, but we're planning to delve deeper into this belle campagne.

Visit a castle and catch a cruise in Nérac

The town of Nérac has plenty of charm and is the hub for
exploring the Pays d'Albret region.

It's been several years since I last visited in Nérac, the most prominent village in the Pays d'Albret region, but as the end of the summer nears, we visit again. The Albret, located in the southern part of the Lot-et-Garonne department between the Landes and Gascony, has a rich history centered around the Albret family. Jeanne d'Albret was the mother of "Good King Henry," who was King of France from 1589 to 1610. 

Château Henri IV in Nérac houses a pleasant museum.

In an Away to Live blog post I wrote in November 2014, I mentioned that on our first trip to Nérac, we had been unable to visit the city's main site, Château Henri IV because it was closed to the public. On a subsequent trip, I twisted my ankle just after arriving and so our plans to visit the château that day were again foiled. 

This painting by Pierre-Jérôme Lordon depicts Henri IV's
arrival in Libourne after the Battle of Coutras.

Why my interest in this particular castle? Despite having several impressive castles practically in our backyard, Château Henri IV is the only royal residence in our department. The castle was built in the 15th century by Alain d'Albret, great-great-grandfather of Henri IV.  The castle and the Nérac area gained importance when Marguerite d'Angoulême and her court resided there. Grandmother of Henry IV and sister of King (of France) François I, Marguerite is considered the first great feminine writer of the French language and an important figure in the French Humanism movement during the Renaissance. 

A scale model of Nérac's Château Henri IV depicts how the
castle looked before its partial destruction in the 18th century. 

The high corners of rooms in Château Henri IV in Nérac
contain surprising accents. 

The castle was nearly destroyed during the French Revolution. The only remaining part of the massive castle was the northern section, which was restored between 1924 and 1934. Today, Château Henri IV is a compact and interesting museum. Although it's not particularly opulent, it's well worth a visit. For a reasonable admission of 3 euros, we are able to visit the bathroom apartments and kitchen annex, as well as check out an exhibit of costumes similar to those worn by Marguerite's court and various royals.

Spices used to create perfumes are displayed at Château Henri IV in Nérac.

Our lunch cruise menu was ... not this. Rather, a medieval feast
like this might have been served at Château Henri IV in Nérac.

Costumes on display at Château Henri IV in Nérac are typical of
what was worn there in the 16th century.

This costume at Château Henri IV in Nérac inspired
me to research la praguette proéminete, or codpiece.

Another Marguerite, Marguerite of Valois, Henri IV's first wife, was also prominent in the history of Nérac and of France. Queen Margot, as she was known, expanded Le Parc Royal de la Garenne, a lovely promenade along both the Baïse River. A walk along this path takes you from the foot of the castle past several fountains, most notably La Fontaine de Fleurette, over a footbridge and past the octagonal Pavillon des Bains du Roy. The royal gardens are free and are open all year round.

In addition to Nérac's old town center, cross the Baïse River and
explore the neighborhoods around Église Notre-Dame.

The towers of Château Henri IV in Nérac can be seen from
across the Baïse River. 

We don't stroll along the royal garden paths on the day of our most recent visit to Nérac. Instead, I've booked us a lunch cruise. Les Croisières du Prince Henry offers 1-hour guided tours on the river and boat rentals. In the summer, lunch is offered with advance reservations.

We pass this traditional French riverside home on our 
Baïse River cruise.

Each passenger must show their passe sanitaire, but I'm still a bit wary when we're seated at long banquet tables, elbow to elbow with our fellow diners. I had expected the windows to be open, but they aren't, maybe because it's a cool, cloudy day. The wine and other local spirits flow freely, but as this is lunch and we have the drive home ahead of us, we stick to sips. The fig-based aperitif, Coucougnettes from Aurian L'Artisan Liquoriste, is especially good, and I buy a bottle to take home at the gift shop after the cruise. My husband enjoys eating both his and my paté and fois gras starters while I enjoy the melon. The magret de canard is overcooked and dry, but the baked tomatoes are tasty, and I eagerly accept a second helping. The meal finishes with a yummy tarte aux pommes and coffee. 

Our cruise boat turns back toward Nérac after reaching this
mill along the Baïse River.

Don't let this less-than-rave food review discourage you from experiencing this lunch cruise for yourself (unless you don't eat duck). It's a relaxing and novel way to pass a few hours. But do plan to spend an hour or so after lunch strolling the lovely paths along the Baïse.

An arch of Nérac's Vieux Pont (old bridge) frames the Baïse River.

Walk through Nérac's Tanneries neighborhood
on your way to the old bridge.

If you're heading to Nérac this month, note that there will be events at Château Henri IV during Les Journées Européennes du Patrimoine, September 18-19, 2021.