Ile de Ré is a biker's paradise

À velo is my preferred mode of transportation on Ile de Ré.

Ditch the car and ride a bike on Ile de Ré. On a recent trip to this beautiful island off the coast of La Rochelle in the Charente-Maritime department, it doesn't take us long to realize that driving here can be a nightmare, and riding a bike is the simplest and sweetest way to get around. The island, which is about 30 kilometers long, offers 110 kilometers of bike paths — and nary a hill to climb.

Part of a bygone stone structure sits in an Ile de Ré marsh. 

Salt and seafood, particularly les huîtres, are farmed on Ile de Ré 

My friends and I have planned this trip for the week following rentrée; the children are back in school and most vacationers have returned to work. There are still a bunch of people here, and getting a table at a choice restaurant might require a reservation. But the weather is gorgeous, and I'd be hard-pressed to find an actual throng of tourists. An added bonus for my friends: The end-of-season promotions offer some good deals on summer clothing. 

Phare des Baleines on Ile de Ré, was built in 1854 to replace
a lighthouse that was destroyed by fire. 

257 steps lead to the top of the main lighthouse at Phare des Baleines on Ile de Ré.

Since my armoire is already too full, I forego the boutiques and take off on my own to check out some tourist attractions. I've been peddling along at sea level, so it's time to see the island from above. In two days, I'll climb hundreds of steps to the top of the lighthouse at Phare des Baleines and the Clocher de Saint-Martin de Ré. My efforts are rewarded with amazing views and a couple of much-needed calf workouts.

The old tower and the museum are seen from the top of the Phare des Baleines
lighthouse on Ile de Ré 

I look to the east from the top of the Phare des Baleines lighthouse on Ile de Ré.

The citadel of Saint-Martin de Ré was once a jail, housing prisoners on their way
to New Caledonia and French Guiana. Guillaume Seznec, Alfred Dreyfus and
Henri Charriére (Papillon)  were among those who slept here. 

There are a mere 117 steps to the top of the clocher (bell tower)
of Saint-Martin de Ré. 

The views from the bell tower at Saint-Martin de Ré are spectacular,
particularly at sunset.

Interesting angles appear as the roof lines of the
Saint-Martin de Ré citadel converge.

Something else that gets a workout here is the bell on my bike. Crowded paths require one to adhere to the rules of the road: Signal (by bell or yell) that you're passing, and don't stop and block the bath. Not surprisingly, many of the bikes seem to be rentals, their requisite wire baskets hang from the handlebars. And in many of these paniers (as well as inside many of the trailers pulled behind) are little dogs. I have to wonder: Are the dogs thrown in for free when you rent a bike?

Those buying sea salt at this roadside stand on Ile de Ré can drop their
payments down the steel post on the left.

The Rivesaline stand on Ile de Ré offers a delicious assortment of sea-salt goodies. 

I'm also surprised by the salt stands along the paths. Riders looking to buy some sea salt can help themselves and pay on the honor system. One stand offers an array of gourmet salt products. I figure I can't go home without some sea-salt caramels, cumin-spiced sea salt, and a jar of salicornes, which I've never heard of. (It's a succulent plant that grows in salt marshes. One of these days I'm going to try it sauteed with garlic.) We tuck our money in the little tin can, wave at the security camera (which may or may not be real), and continue on our way. 

It's low tide in the Saint-Martin de Ré harbor.

Determined to maintain my régime, I savor the seafood here and limit myself to ice cream only twice (the island is known for its glace riche et crémeuse). The best meal I have all week is a salmon salad in La Rochelle, before we crossed the 3-km bridge (with a 16 euro toll!) onto Ile de Ré. I also enjoyed a take-out Greek salad bought at the daily market in Saint-Martin de Ré and eaten on a bench overlooking the harbor. 

One of the best swimming beaches on Ile de Ré is in La Couarde sur Mer.

Late afternoon before our last night on Ile de Ré, I check out the beach. Since I'm alone and don't want to leave any valuables on the beach, I don't dive all the way into the ocean, but I wade in up to my waist and gaze to the west. Way out there, across the sea, are some of the people I love the most. Today, by chance, is my granddaughter's first birthday. "Happy birthday, sweet Vivi!," I yell. And a part of me believes she hears me.

This merry-go-round in La Couarde sur Mer on Ile de Ré is charming.

Ars en Ré is a lovely village to have a drink and dream of owning a boat. 

The white bell tower with the black point in Ars en Ré is
a famous emblem of the island.

The exact date of the construction of this Saint Catherine Church of Loix on
Ile de Ré is unknown, but it is first mentioned as far back as the 14th century.

This flowery passage in Saint-Martin de Ré is named in honor of Alan Cope,
an American soldier in WWII who lived here until his death in 1999.

Red shutters, sashes, and doors delight the eye in Saint-Martin de Ré