Belcastel melds medieval past with modern art

The village of Belcastel is perched on the slopes of the Aveyron river.

A common tale is that of a once-magnificent castle that falls into ruin. Thankfully, the story of the Château de Belcastel in Aveyron (12) has a much happier ending. In 1974 the famed architect Fernand Poullion purchased the château and began a massive restoration project. He encouraged local residents to help in the restoration of their village, and the result is un plus beau village — one of the most beautiful villages in France.

An unusual altar is found midway across Belcastel’s stone
bridge. In the 15th century passersby would stop here
to pray and pay. 

Pouillon, who was born in Cancon (47) in 1912, has a very interesting bio, from architectural projects in Marseille to a stint in jail and a prison break. (He eventually was acquitted of the original crime.) Pouillon’s last years were spent in Belcastel where he died 1986.

An artsy fisherman stands along the Aveyron river
in Belcastel.

We decide to make a short detour to Belcastel on our way to Millau. We park in a lot beside a grassy river bank where we have a picnic lunch before hiking up to the village. This path across a bridge and along the river bank was the only way to enter the village until the second half of the 20th century, and the short walk provides us with a memorable perspective of Belcastel.

An ancient stone urn beside Belcastel’s church is filled with flowers.

Belcastel’s 15th-century church contains the tomb of
its founder Alzias de Saunhac.

Our first stop is at the village church, Église Sainte Marie-Madeleine. Inside are a contemporary set of Stations of the Cross by artist Casimir Ferrer along with the tomb of Alzias de Saunhac, who had the church built in the 1400s. Saunhac, who was once Lord of Belcastel, also is responsible for the stone bridge. Halfway across the bridge is a cross and altar where those who crossed over would stop to pray and leave offerings.

Belcastel’s Four a Pain Fagegaltier was constructed in 1953.

Scattered throughout the village are whimsical sculptures that seem to pop out of doorways and from behind trees. A pretty garden on the lane leading to the château contains several of these contemporary pieces of art.

Art seems to be everywhere in Belcastel.

A pretty garden appears along the stone path through Belcastel.

Belcastel has a number of cafés and restaurants, and a stop that the whole family may enjoy is La Maison de la Forge. This museum dedicated to the ancient trades of blacksmith, fisherman and clog maker, is open April through October. A visit to the museum can be combined with a guided visit of the village. For information, contact the Belcastel tourism office at 05.65.64.46.11 or visit the Belcastel website here.

Detour to the Tourtrès windmill

The mill in Tourtrès originally was built in 1620.

Our relaxed lives here in south west France mean we are rarely in a hurry. Out on a drive one pretty day on our way to do some research for another Lot of Livin’ blog post, our GPS, which sometimes gives us questionable directions, takes us by the village of Tourtrès. I’ve noticed this windmill high on a hill many times, but finding ourselves in its shadow seems too good to pass up. Certainly, our original errands can wait.

Tourtrès is located in the Lot-et-Garonne about 2 km from Tombebœuf, 50 km north of Agen and 33 km north of Villeneuve-sur-Lot.

Our car’s GPS unexpectedly (and fortunately) directs us to the
tiny village of Tourtrès.

We park in a lot and take a short walk up a paved path. The village of Tourtrès (pop. 136 in 2009) has only a few houses and no business that I can see. What it does contain is Église Saint-Pierre with a four-arcade Gothic bell tower, centuries-old cypress trees, and the aforementioned mill. The crystal-clear day also provides beautiful views across the surrounding countryside.

In addition to a windmill, Tourtrès contains an ancient church.

Église Saint-Pierre in Tourtrès has a striking four-arched Gothic bell tower.

It is not until a few months later as I am preparing to write this post that I discover the mill’s rich history. Originally the village contained three mills; the one that still stands was built in 1620. In 1892 the mill was demolished, only to be rebuilt three years later. The mill worked until it was abandoned in 1925.

Centuries ago, three mills in Tourtrès provided a
livelihood to villagers.

In 1950, a Swiss poet named Armel Guerne bought the mill, which, by that time, had a collapsed roof and failing walls. Guerne restored the structure so he could live in it. During the restoration, epigraphs from 1801 were discovered. After Guerne died in 1980, the mill was purchased by one of his relatives and was again restored in 1997. Although the mill doesn’t actually work, it is lovely to look at.

A stop in the village of Tourtrès provides pretty views across
the countryside.

Tourtrès most famous resident was artist Eliane Thiollier (born in 1926 in Saint-German en Laye) who was known for her paintings and lithographs. She died in an automobile accident in the Lot-et-Garonne in 1989.

I am grateful for the Region Aquitaine website that provided me with the mill’s history. And I am also grateful for the reminder to never pass up an interesting detour — there’s always time to be a little late.

This wayfarer’s cross stands in Tourtrès.

Terceira is a fine finish to our Azores trip

Monte Brasil can be seen across Fanal Bay on the island of Terceira.

Our recent trip to the Azores ends in Terceira, an island that may be my favorite of those we visited. Like other islands (São Miguel, Faial, Pico and São Jorge) Terceira has incredible views, blue oceans, green pastures, delicious food and friendly residents. What sets this island apart for me is its largest city Angra do Heroísmo (or Angra for short). With a population of around 35,000, Angra is an ideal size in my book. Here we find a good array of restaurants, a swim-able beach, and plenty of opportunities to explore the history, culture and natural beauty of the city.

Fortress of São João Baptista is located at the base of Monte Brasil in
Angro do Heroísmo on the island of Terceira.

On our ride from the airport, our host tells us that one thing we absolutely must do during our week here is to hike up Monte Brasil. This volcanic peninsula, flanked by the Bay of Angra and the Bay of Fanal, has a couple of peaks that can be reached by a series of trails, but we opt to mostly stick to the paved road. (Two in our party take a taxi to the top and then leisurely walk down the mountain.) We're uncertain what to expect, but it turns out to be a nice 45-minute walk. As we begin, we pass Fortress of São João Baptista, also known as the Fort of São Filipe or Fort of Monte Brasil. We veer off the main road and check out a small chapel. As we near the top of Pico das Cruzinhas, we meet our party and pause for a few minutes to watch some military target practice on the slopes below us.

Angra is seen through the flora on Monte Brasil.

The monument atop Monte Brasil's Pico das Cruzinas
honors the Age of Discoveries.

We've brought along some sandwiches and have no trouble finding picnic tables on Pico das Cruzinhas. There's also a zoo here, along with a soccer field, playground and a monument honoring Portuguese occupation of the Azores during the Age of Discoveries.

Buildings along Angra's main street are adorned with iron balconies and
borders of color.

Visitors are welcome to check out Angra's city hall (Paços do Concelho).

Jardim Duque de Terceira is located in the center of Angra.

The windows of Casa do Sal cultural center in Angra are delightful. 

I'm amused by this unusual mural in Angra.

Sé Catedral de Angra do Heroísmo was built in the 16th century.

Chapel of the Misericórdia of São Sebastião in Angra do
Heroísmo has a beautiful ocean view.

Angra is a walkable city, filled with buildings accented with ornate iron balconies and several colorful churches — a refreshing change from most other churches we have seen in the Azores. The pale yellow Cathedral and sky blue Misericordia are two standouts, but my favorite is Church of Our Lady of Guia, part of the monastery São Francisco in which the Museu de Angro do Heroísmo is located. The explorer Vasco da Gama's brother Paulo is buried here.

Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Guia is part of the Museu de Angro do Heroísmo.

We are delighted by the museum. We had expected our visit to be short, but we end up staying nearly three hours. The museum is filled with a large variety of pieces, from ancient stonework to a re-creation of a cinema. There are signs in English and several spots to sit down and watch short films.

Museu de Angro do Heroísmo is located in the monastery São Francisco.

A replica of the ship Santa Catarina do Monte Sinai can be found at Museu
de Angro do Heroísmo.

A stone warrior stands inside Museu de Angro do Heroísmo.

Old photographs are part of the ecclectic collection at
Museu de Angro do Heroísmo.

Our visit to the Algar do Carvão on Terceira provides us with the
singular chance to visit the inside of a volcano.

As our time on Terceira is nearly over, we hire a taxi to take us to the Algar do Carvão, an attraction that is on my can't-miss-on-Terceira list. Located in the center of the island, Algar do Carvão is a large volcanic cone accessible to the public. We pay a small admission and walk downstairs about 80 meters nearly to the bottom of the crater. Being inside a volcano is incredible. Milky white stalactites and stalagmites cover the walls and roof of the volcano, and lush vegetation lines the upper portions of the opening at the top. The lava tube (algar) is home to beetles, centipedes and spiders, although we don't run into any of the natives during our visit here.

The cavernous Algar do Carvão was formed around 3,200 years ago.

Flora inside Algar do Carvão includes dozens of species of
liverwort, moss and ferns.

Our last day here, we are driven to the airport by the brother of our host, who stops at a miradouro for one last group photo and one more spectacular view.

We pose for one last photo on Terceira before heading home across
the Atlantic — two head east and two head west.

Read about our earlier stops in the Azores by clicking on these links for São Miguel and the central islands.