The islands of the Azorean triangulo

A stop at a miradouro provides this view of the Baia da Ribeira
das Cabras on the northern shore of Faial.

After five days on the island of São Miguel, we travel by plane to the second stage of our visit to the Azores. During our week here, we stay on two of the islands that make up the triangulo: Faial and São Jorge. We also spend the day on the second largest island in the Azores, Pico.

Faial

Caldeira do Faial is a volcanic crater located in the middle of the island.

Our first stop is Faial, where we hunker down in Horta, the island's largest city. Faial is known as the "blue island," in tribute to the abundance of hydrangeas that grow here. Once an important whale-hunting port, Horta remains a stopover point for yachts en route across the Atlantic.

Peter's Cafe and Scrimshaw Museum is popular with tourists.
Peter's various enterprises take up most of this block in Horta.

Our guide shares with us his favorite view of the Faial coast.

A church on the Faial coast comes with a magnificent ocean view.

A huge volcano erupted here in 1957 and the result was a change in the local geography. Our guided tour of the island includes a stop at the Volcão des Capelinhos on Faial's western coast. We also have a chance to peer inside the Caldiera at the center of the island.

Ponta das Capelinhos on Faial is the site of a large volcanic eruption. 

Lava from a large volcanic blast in 1957 added some real estate to Faial.

The city of Horta hugs the waterfront, and steep streets continue up the hillside. Our calf muscles get a workout here. The pleasant weather on the island contrasts with choppy seas, which thwart my plan to go whale-watching while we're here. My disappointment is short, however, as we discover some simple delights during our walks around the city.

I didn't know bananas grew upside down until I came
upon this bananeira in our Horta neighborhood.

As one of our travel companions is a retired firefighter, a visit to Horta's
Corpo de Bombeiros is required.

Horta's harbor-side road is Avenida 25 de Abril — commemorating the
overthrow of Portugal's authoritarian regime in 1974. 

This statue is inside the Igreja de Nossa Senhora das
Angústias, one of Horta's many churches.

Pico

Pico is the highest mountain in Portugal (7,713 feet).

You won't find white sandy beaches on Pico, the second largest island in the Azores, but its offbeat black lava beauty is breathtaking. Dominating the island is Pico mountain, the centerpiece that brings hikers, bikers and other trekkers here. Our primary reason for visiting is because this is the island where many of my husband's ancestors came from.

On a warmer afternoon, this would be a sunny spot to relax on Pico.

After we disembark the ferry in Madalena, we stop for coffee and sweets and hire a cab to take us to the village of Santo Amaro, where Ken's great great grandfather is buried. Although we're unable to find his grave, just being here is moving for my husband and his mom.

Grapes are grown on the hills above the village of Santo Amaro on Pico,
an island known for its wine. 

Our taxi driver takes us along the northern coast of the island, past vineyards where Pico's renown wine grapes are grown. He points out the changing landscape, some parts are green and fertile, others are black and rocky.  Pico's lava beds were turned into orchards and vineyards in the centuries since the island's most recent volcanic eruptions in the 1700s.

Paved paths allow us to get an up-close look at Núcleo Cachorro on Pico.

São Jorge

This bright red gazebo in the Velas's main square, Jardim da República,
is a refreshing splash of color against the gray sky. 

São Jorge's history is a bit of a mystery, although there already were settlers here when its main city, Velas, was established in the 15th century by Wilhelm van der Haegen, a Flemish nobleman. Although Velas contains some charming touches, it is not my favorite stop in the Azores. The best part of our stay here is a scary dip in the ocean at a lagoon very close to our apartment.

We're a bit wary of the waves in this swimming lagoon in Velas.

This swimming lagoon on São Jorge is calmer than the one near where we stayed.

Like nearly all the churches we see in the Azores, Igreja Matriz in Velas is constructed of lava rock and thus is the requisite black and white. The city's auditorium/library, however, is a modern, bright orange structure at the edge of the water.

It seems that nearly all the churches in the Azores are black and white.

The modern Auditorio/Biblioteca in Velas stands out for its shape and color.

A rare touch of humor emerges from this fountain in Velas.

I am enamored of the burst of red in the center of Velas's main plaza.

Our taxi tour of the island takes us along steep coasts that dip down to small flat areas called fajãs at the water's edge. At one stop, we can see a crowd gathering on the edge of a village for a bullfight. At least a quarter of our party is uninterested in waiting around for the main event; I prefer my cows to be peacefully grazing on a mountainside. The main industry here is dairy, and these cows certainly earn their sweeping ocean views.

The dairy cows here are responsible for the famed São Jorge cheese.

The views are never dull in the Azores.

Next up on Away to Live is Terceira. In case you missed part 1 of the Azores posts, click here.

School’s out for Toussaint — Kid-friendly fun

Autumn school holidays are upon us. It’s been more than a decade since I’ve had to worry about keeping kids entertained during school breaks, but I remember it well. The Toussaint vacation offers opportunities to get out and visit some places, some of which close for the winter right after break. Here are 10 ideas and a few extra Halloween-only events.

Villascopia

Villascopia is a premier place to visit Gallo-Romaine ruins.

Go way back in time to the Gallo-Roman era with a visit to Villascopia, located in Castelculier, about 7 km from Agen. Visits start with a Scenovision Spectacular film, continue through exhibition rooms and then a walk among the ruins. Villascopia is open during Toussaint from 2-5 p.m., and the venue is hosting a special Halloween event, Les Sorcelleries de Villascopia, from Oct. 23-31. For admission prices and more information, visit the Villascopia website here.

Aquarium du Périgord Noir

An alligator seems to be checking me out at Aquarium du Périgord Noir in Le Bugue.

The largest private freshwater aquarium in Europe is in La Bugue (24). It is home to around 6,000 fish that swim about in 66 basins containing 33 million liters of water. The young friend that we took along on our visit especially liked the alligators and snakes — go figure. A prehistoric-themed labyrinth is right next door. For ticket information and hours, visit the Aquarium du Périgord Noir website here.

Musée de l’Histoire du Costume

This display, created by Dolène Durieux at the at the Musée de l’Historire
du Costume in Lauzun, is inspired by a painting by Franz-Xaver Winterhalter.

I’ll admit I am partial to this small museum, and not only because it is located just outside my village of Lauzun (47). Madame Dolène Durieux is one of the sweetest people I’ve encountered, and her collection of handmade costumes on dolls is a delight to behold. Well-known historical figures as well as contemporary celebs are all here. The museum is open by appointment; call 05.53.94.10.62 or email durieux.m@wanadoo.fr.

Château du Gavaudun

The ramparts of the Château du Gavaudun offer a rocking view of
the surrounding valley.

Standing atop the Château-fort de Gavaudun (47), one can imagine keeping watch over the valley below. The fortress was built in the 11th century on the river Lede in the lovely Gavaudun Valley between Biron and Lacapelle. The fortress is just a skeleton now, but it is still spectacular (although not handicapped-accessible). Gavaudun can be visited 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. everyday until the end of October. On Thursdays during Toussaint, Gavaudun presents a special family treasure hunt for ages 6-8 and 9-12. For information, visit the Château du Gavaudun website here.

Maison des Gens de Garonne

A cannon stands at the site of Couthures’s original suspension
bridge. The village is home to Maison des Gens de Garonne.

This place is on my to-do list, and I finally have plans to visit Maison des Gens de Garonne before it closes for the season. The site, located in the pretty village of Couthures-sur-Garonne (47), close to Marmande, offers visitors a chance to learn about the history and people who inhabited this area of France. A visit includes two films (one in 3D). Maison des Gens de Garonne is open 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. from Oct. 21-Nov. 5. Admission is 8€ for adults, 6€ for ages 6-12 and free for age 5 and younger. The Gens de Garonne website doesn’t appear to be working, so to contact the attraction, call 05.53.20.67.76.

Canal Bike Ride

I met this badling of ducks along one of my first Canal bike rides.

For families on two wheels, there’s nothing like a long flat road with no cars. The path along the western extension of the Canal du Midi, or more properly called le Canal de la Garonne, is one of my favorite places to ride. It runs from Toulouse to the Atlantic. Look at a map and pick out a spot to park the car. If it’s a nice day, pack a lunch, or plan to stop at one of the villages along the canal.

Bridoire Château des Jeux

Games are the hook at Bridoire Château.

If you have children, you’ve likely visited the 12th-century castle Bridoire. This château caters to kids offering games and activities for young visitors. During the Toussaint holiday, Bridoire presents Les Fantômes de Bridoire, a special Halloween adventure from 2-6 p.m. each day. After Nov. 5, the château closes until spring. Bridoire is located in Ribagnac (24), near Monbazillac, 12 km south of Bergerac. For information about visiting this “castle of games,” visit the Château de Bridoire website here.

Les Grottes de Maxange

Another attraction that will soon end its season are the Maxange caves located in Le Buisson de Cadouin (24), between Bergerac and Sarlat. In 2000, Angel Carballero whose family who had operated a quarry here for two generations, discovered the network of grottes containing astonishing crystal geodes. The distinct conditions of the cave have resulted in rare geological art that is beautiful and eccentric. For hours and tariffs, visit the Les Grottes de Maxange here.

Take the train to Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a great family destination during Toussaint.

This city is so intertwined with wine, that some may not realize that it is a delightful destination for children too. Bordeaux’s CAP Sciences museum presents Luminopolis, which the Bordeaux Tourism website describes as “a city of knowledge that contains everything there is to know about light.” An Escape Game makes exploring the exhibition great fun. During the school vacations the museum is open 2-6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, and 2-7 p.m. on weekends. For details, visit the CAP Sciences website here.

Bordeaux’s Quai Richelieu is hosting the tall ship Mir from Oct. 27 to Nov. 7. Visitors can visit the ship, which is one of five sister ships built at the Lenin shipyard in Gdansk, Poland. The Mir, whose name means “peace”, is designed to be sailed with a crew of 200. Details can be found on the Bordeaux Tourism website here.

To top off the day, ride the ferris wheel at the Bordeaux Fun Fair, located at the Esplanade des Quinconces.

For information about Bordeaux, visit the Bordeaux Tourism website here.

Zoo de Mescoules

Although this small zoo is close by, I only just heard about it. And if I can spirit away my favorite young French friends for a few hours, I plan to visit Zoo de Mescoules. located between Bergerac and Eymet. I mean, who doesn’t love giant snakes, crocs, alligators and other slithery creatures from exotic locations? The privately owned zoo was established in 2009 and is open all year round. For hours and tariffs, visit the Zoo de Mescoules website here.

Halloween

Pumpkin-themed markets such as this one in Issigeac
(this year on Oct. 22), are a highlight of the Halloween season. 

I know Halloween is relatively new to France, but it’s catching on. Many villages are hosting special markets, and pumpkin-centric events. For example, Chateau de Duras (47) invites Halloween revelers to its Ado’lloween event for ages 10 and up beginning at 7 p.m. on Oct. 31. Halloween treasure hunts are taking place in Allemans-du-Dropt and Casteljaloux (sign up at the local tourism offices). Older kids who seek some Halloween cinematic scares can head to the Cinema Le Plaza in Marmande for a triple feature: “The Addams Family,” at 7 p.m.; Francis Ford Coppola’s “Dracula” at 9:15 p.m. (both in VF); and the Stephen King/Brian de Palma classic “Carrie” at 11:30 p.m. (in English). Each film’s admission is 4.30 € .

Stop by your local tourism office or Mairie to find out what’s happening on Halloween in your village.

Casseneuil: Medieval charm on three rivers

A stone path leads to the Lède river in Casseneuil.

With its half-timbered houses from the 13th to 15th centuries, the little village of Casseneuil retains much of its medieval charm. If you find yourself in the center of the Lot-et-Garonne department, consider a brief stop in Casseneuil. The village is located on a natural peninsula at the confluence of the Lot, Lède and Sône rivers. Its name means “clearing in the forest of oaks.”

The Lède river is one of three that meet in Casseneuil.

Unsurprisingly, residents of Casseneuil, les Casseneuillois, welcome most of their tourists during the summer months. Boats paddle past on their way down the Lot River from Villeneuve-sur-Lot to Aiguillon, a 49-km ride, or canoes and kayaks can be rented at a base camp in the village. Each July, Casseneuil hosts a “big jump” party during which, as the name implies, brave souls jump into the waters of the Lot.

The Lot River in Casseneuil is the setting for a “big jump” each July.

A stop in Casseneuil at other times of the year offers the chance to spend a pleasant hour or so admiring the houses, castle ramparts, church and remains of an ancient theater. The village has a pizza place (Pizza Nini) and an auberge (Les 2 Marrionnniers) for those visiting around meal time.

Casseneuil’s former Mairie sits in the village square.

A nearby walking trail, Pech Neyrat, offers panoramic valley views as well as a bit of historical trivia: Some believe (though others do not) that in 778, Charlemagne’s wife, Queen Ermengard, gave birth to their son Grégoire (aka Louis the Pious) in a house commissioned by the Emperor and located in this scenic area.

Remains of castle ramparts still stand in Casseneuil.

Like many villages in this part of France Casseneuil has a sad history. Massacres, plagues, famines floods occurred here, as did a complete dismantling of the town in the early 13th century. The village was, unknowingly a staging area for the deportation of Jews to extermination camps during World War. II. The resilient village of Casseneuil has, nonetheless, survived. (A more detailed history, in French, of the village can be found on the Casseneuil Mairie website here.)

Notable people who were born in Casseneuil include Jean Alban Bergonié (1857-1925), a physician/surgeon who pioneered cancer treatment, X-rays, war surgery, and obesity treatment. He received the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honor 15 days before his death. Another native son, Marie-Joseph Cassant (1878-1903), was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 2004.

Église Saint Pierre et Saint Paul in Casseneuil is notable for its
frescoes dating back to the 15th to 16th centuries.

Casseneuil’s church, Saint Pierre et Saint Paul has been classified as an historical monument. It is notable for its frescoes.

Église Saint Pierre et Saint Paul in Casseneuil was built in
the 15th to 16th centuries.

Casseneuil is located halfway between Bordeaux and Toulouse, 9 km from Villenueve-sur-Lot and 40 km from Agen. Market day is Wednesday, and the village has Saturday evening markets during the summer.

Red adds a blast of color to the medieval village of Casseneuil.

Lush greens and hot springs on São Miguel

Lagoa das Furnas is located on São Miguel, the largest island in the Azores.

I wouldn't call myself a geography whiz, but I am surprised at how many people I've talked to recently who are unaware of the Azores. This island group in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean is the part of Europe that is closest to the United States. The Azores (os Açores) are part of Portugal and have a long history connected to exploration, shipping, whaling and the military. Nowadays, the islands' economy is based on food production (beef, cheese, fish, tea and pineapples) along with tourism.

The Azores archipelago is composed of nine islands spread out over 370 miles. There are three groups: São Miguel and Santa Maria in the east; Terceira, São Jorge, Pico, Faial and Graciosa in the center; and Flores and Corvo in the west. Our trip includes visits to five islands, which we get to by plane and ferry.

While my mother-in-law and her companion encounter delays on their trip from California through Boston, Ken and I have a uneventful flights from Bordeaux through Lisbon to Ponta Delgada on the island of São Miguel. This is the largest Azorean island and some say the most beautiful.

A brief stop at Miradouro de Santa Iria gives us this pretty view of São Miguel.

A waterfall in a garden in Ribeira Grande on the north side of São Miguel
offers me a chance to play with my camera settings.

I find a refreshing burst of color in Ribeira Grande. 

Our apartment is located at the edge of Ponta Delgada's center, an easy walk to restaurants and what is to become our favorite ice cream parlor, Abracadabra. (Don't pass up the pistachio!)

One of my favorite things to do in a city is to visit gardens like this,
Jardim Antonio Borges in Ponta Delgada. 

Jardim Antonio Borges is not your typical garden.

On a visit to Ponta Delgada's Jardim Botânico José do Canto
I spy this massive Australian banyan tree.

Folk dancers stop by for a performance at a Ponta Delgada restaurant.

Fancy carvings adorn the doorway of Ponta Delgada's Igreja Matriz.

The Town Gates (Portas de Cidade), built in the 18th century,
are featured on official Ponta Delgada postcards.

On Day 3 we hire a cab that takes us around the island. We stop at a number of miradouros (vistas) providing amazing views of this lush green island. Our trip also includes a visit to Plantações de Chá Gorreana, the oldest tea plantation in Europe. We have lunch in Furnas where our meat-heavy stew has been cooked underground in a volcanic lava pit. Afterward we enjoy a soak in a volcanic hot spring.

Sacks of tea whet our appetite for a tasting at Plantações de Chá Gorreana,
Europe's oldest tea plantation. 

Sulfur-infused steam rises from a lava pit along the shores of Lagoa das Furnas.

Pots of stew are are buried in the caldeiras (hot springs) at Lagoa das Furnas. 

A marker signifies that a pot of cozido is buried here.

Six hours of cooking in a volcanic caldeira yields Cozido das Furnas,
a rich Portuguese stew.

After lunch, we stop at Poça da D. Beíja for a dip in a natural thermal pool. 

On another day we opt for a Yellow Bus tour to see the western part of São Miguel. Here we see what turns out to be an Azorean highlight: Sete Cidades (Lagoon of the Seven Cities). These two lakes are connected, but are ecologically different — one is blue and the other is green. Besides being an important fresh water resource for the Azores, Sete Cidades comes with its own legend of a princess and the shepherd she loved but was forbidden to marry.

Despite stiff competition, Sete Cidades on the island of São Miguel may be
the most beautiful place I visit during my trip to the Azores.

We take an impromptu hike after I misread a sign at Lagoa do Canário.

Fast forward two weeks to the end of our trip: Ken and I return to Ponta Delgada where we enjoy a sunny afternoon  and dinner in a Mexican restaurant. Those who know me know that this is the cuisine I miss the most in rural France, and I will take any opportunity to eat Mexican wherever I go. This dinner, however, includes fresh pineapple margaritas. Did I mention that pineapples are a São Miguel specialty?

Museu Carlos Machado in Ponta Delgada was founded in 1888.

A fountain and war memorial are located at Forte de São Brás in Ponta Delgada. 

A cross is seen through a window of a ruined building in Ponta Delgada.

From São Miguel we fly to the central islands of the Azores — the subject of my next post on Away to Live.