Donkeys find love at Hee Haws

This pair of donkeys have become inseparable at Hee Haws
donkey rescue. 

Not far from Eymet in France's Dordogne department, a gentle woman and a band of volunteers have created a home for neglected and mistreated donkeys. I recently visited Hee Haws and, in one hour I learned a whole lot about these sweet creatures. 

Carina, right, shares donkey tales with a guest at Hee Haws
donkey rescue.

For Carina, rescuing donkeys and running a non-profit organization are labors of love. Many of the donkeys that have found a refuge at Hee Haws were in bad shape when they arrived. It turns out, donkeys need a lot of care. Their diet needs to be regulated or they may get too thin or too fat. Their feet must be cared for by a professional farrier — an occupation that requires patience, gentleness, and courage, as a donkey's kick can send a feed bucket clear across the pasture. 

This agile donkey is a resident of Hee Haws donkey rescue.

Some of the donkeys that live at Hee Haws were saved from slaughter. (I'm horrified to find out that eating donkeys is actually a thing!) If you want to avoid inadvertently eating donkey sausage, watch out for something called saucisson d'âne.  

Dolly, or perhaps it's Beatrice, is a longtime resident at Hee Haws
donkey sanctuary.

Holly and Willow nuzzle a cat at Hee Haws donkey sanctuary.

After the donkeys are healthy, Carina looks for homes for them. A few of the residents will remain at Hee Haws forever, as they have become part of Carina's family. Some must be adopted in pairs or even threes, as donkeys grow attached to their roommates. That's another thing I learn during my visit: Donkeys shouldn't be alone. They are very social animals. 

Lottie, Wilfred, and Theo trot over to greet visitors at Hee Haws
donkey sanctuary.

One pair of donkeys that had recently arrived at Hee Haws surprised Carina when they saunter over to greet her, even though there are other people around. This pair had been mistreated and were quite shy of humans. Another trio trots to the fence to say hello, delighting Carina because one of them had only recently been able to run at all due to painful feet. 

This shy donkey (Billie or Teddy?) enjoys a little scratch
behind the ears from Carina at Hee Haws donkey sanctuary.

Carina doesn't publicize the exact location of her donkey sanctuary, but she welcomes visitors by appointment and asks only for a small donation to help cover expenses. She plans to add a gift shop at the property to sell Hee Haws swag like greeting cards and tee shirts. (Last year I sent out Hee Haws holiday cards.) 

There's a lot involved in raising donkeys, as I learn during my
visit to Hee Haws donkey sanctuary.

Hee Haws also offers memberships and opportunities to sponsor individual donkeys. For more information, visit heehaws.fr . Hee Haws also has a Facebook page. Carina can be reached at heehawsfr@gmail.com or 06.17.30.14.00. 

There's plenty of room to roam at Hee Haws donkey sanctuary.  

This donkey, perhaps named Angel, peeks out
from its stall at Hee Haws donkey sanctuary.

One last thing: All the donkeys at Hee Haws have names, but I'm lousy with names, so if I've made any errors in my captions, I bray you'll forgive me.

Flower markets are in bloom

This post originally appeared on the Places & Faces blog for The Local Buzz.

The Marché aux Fleurs in Duras kicks off the flower- and plant-buying season. 

After months of weekends with slim pickings on the calendar, flowers, farms and vide greniers are bustin' out all over.

Marché aux Fleurs in Duras

Although the skies are overcast on Easter Day here in the Lot-et-Garonne, we check out the Marché aux Fleurs et Vide Greniers in Duras. We're somewhat addicted to vide greniers but rarely buy anything. However, today we splurge on some local craft beer, a gently used mandoline slicer, and a 10-minute Reiki massage for my husband's aching back.

A vide greniers accompanied the Marché aux Fleurs in Duras.

A vide greniers accompanied the Marché aux Fleurs in Duras.

We also buy some tomato plants — we look forward to tasting the tomate poire jaune variety this summer.

Marché aux Fleurs in Duras

Marché aux Fleurs in Duras

Marché aux Fleurs in Duras

The Local Buzz What's On section is your best first stop for finding out about upcoming flower markets and other events. Be sure to mark your calendar for these upcoming flower and plant foires, fêtes and marchés:

27 April 2019: Foire aux Fleurs et aux Miels, Libourne (33)

27-28 April 2019: De Ferme en Ferme, Lot-et Garonne (47)

28 April 2019: Foire aux Fleurs, Le Bugue (24)

28 April 2019: Fête des Fleurs et des Abeilles, Eymet (24)

28 April 2019: Vide Greniers et Fête du Printemps, La Sauvetat-du-Dropt (47)

1 May 2019: Les Créneaux Fleuris, Montaut-les-Créneaux (32)

1 May 2019: Marché aux Fleurs et Vide Greniers, Pellegrue (33)

1 May 2019: Marché aux Fleurs, Saint-Félix (46)

1 May 2019: Foire aux Fleurs, Tournon-d'Agenais (47)

5 May 2019: Aubus en Fleurs, Aubus (24)

5 May 2019: Marché aux Fleurs, Issigeac (24)

5 May 2019: Marché aux Fleurs, Jegun (32)

5 May 2019: Fête des Plantes, Saucats (33)

5 May 2019: Foire aux Plants et Vide Greniers, Lévignac-de-Guyenne (47)

8 May 2019: Fête des Plantes et de l'Artisanat, La Romieu (32)

8 May 2019: Marché aux Fleurs de Bazas (33)

11-12 May 2019: Les Floralies de Saint Jean de Côle (24)

11-12 May 2019: Marché aux Fleurs, Nérac (47)

12 May 2019: Jardi'Rêve, Val de Virvée (33)

12 May 2019: Vide Jardin, Beauville (47)

18-19 May 2019: Vente de Plantes, Payzac (24)

19 May 2019: Foire aux Fleurs, Monpazier (24)

26 May 2019: Marché aux Fleurs et Vide Greniers, Toulenne (33)

30 May 2019: Fête des Fleurs, de la Nature et du Chaval, Cazals (46)

1-2 June 2019: Idées de Jardin, Arcachon (33)

2 June 2019: Fête des Plantes Rares, Lamontjoie (47)

10 June 2019: Foire aux Plantes, Layrac (47)

Departments

24 Dordogne

32 Gers

33 Gironde

46 Lot

47 Lot-et-Garonne

Marché aux Fleurs in Duras

All hail the prune harvest

This post originally appeared on the Places& Faces blog for The Local Buzz.

Prunes, or plums as we say in America, are nearly ready for harvesting at
Les Vergers de Bertounèche.

It's nearly prune harvest time again, and in the Lot-et-Garonne, this is serious business. France averages 40,000 tons of prunes each year, with nearly all coming from the Agen area, which includes the Lot-et-Garonne (76 percent), Dordogne (8 percent), Gironde (6 percent), Tarn-et-Garonne (4 percent), Gers (3 percent), and Lot (2 percent).

Prune trees soak up the sun about a month before harvest at
Les Vergers de Bertounèche.

The average orchard size is 10 hectares, and the countryside surrounding the village in which I live is dotted with arbres de pruneaux. We've become friendly with Corinne and Frank Hayer, owners of Les Vergers de Bertounèche in Saint-Colomb-de-Lauzun and we have visited their orchard several times. Les Vergers de Bertounèche has a Véritables Pruneaux d'Agen designation, which means the orchard adheres to strict quality guidelines.

The Lot-et-Garonne department is dotted with beautiful prune orchards
such as Les Vergers de Bertounèche in Saint-Colomb-de-Lauzun.

Frank Hayer, owner of Les Vergers de Bertounèche, describes
the process of growing prunes to visitors.

Corinne has a "day job" as a high school science teacher where she has summers off. However, growing prunes is a year-round job. The whole family is involved, including their teenagers and Frank's father (and co-owner), especially at harvest time.

Equipment, including this receiver, is ready for the prune harvest at
Les Vergers de Bertounèche.

Getting the prunes from tree to table, starts with a shake. A shaker and a receiver are positioned under each tree. The receiver is wrapped around the trunk and the prunes fall onto its folding canopy. It's a fascinating process that involves two operators. If you happen to be passing by a prune orchard during the harvest, stop and enjoy the show.

After being harvested, prunes are washed at Les Vergers de Bertounèche.

Prunes are cleaned and sorted at Les Vergers de Bertounèche.

Next, the prunes are washed and sorted, a task that involves another crew. The fruit is loaded onto trays that are then put into a huge oven. During this stage, Frank will be on hand every three hours to move the carts containing the trays of prunes that have finished "cooking."

Les Vergers de Bertounèche owner Frank Hayer slides trays
of prunes into the oven. 

Freshly dried prunes beg to be tasted at Les Vergers de Bertounèche.

Some prunes will be soft, others dry and chewy. Some fruit is destined to become juice, pulp or maybe even that potent potable eau de vie.

Musée et Ferme de Pruneau offers a glimpse into the prune industry.

A visit to the Musée et Ferme de Pruneau in Lafitte sur Lot (47) offers visitors the opportunity to see the processing if visited during the harvest (mid-August through mid-September). The quaint low-tech museum also provides a history lesson into all things prune.

A life-size display at Musée et Ferme de Pruneau shows
the prune-drying process.

The gift shop at Musée et Ferme de Pruneau carries an assortment of
prune products.

Eclectic music man

Lowland pipes, played by Bernie Precious, are from
the South of Scotland. These smaller pipes are more conducive
to playing indoors than their larger cousin the bagpipe.

Hear bagpipes and think of kilt-wearing Scotsmen, but the history of this woodwind instrument may go back more than a thousand years. Consisting of blowpipe or bellows, bag, chanter and drone, this complicated instrument emits a sound that is an acquired taste to some and a cherished tradition to others. Local musician Bernie Precious plays the pipes and recently shared with me some of his unusual collection of musical instruments.

Lowland pipes, played by Bernie Precious, are from the South of Scotland. These smaller pipes are more conducive to playing indoors than their larger cousin the bagpipe.

Bernie Precious demonstrates how to play the nyckelharpa,
a traditional Swedish stringed instrument.

The nyckelharpa, shown here played by Bernie Precious, is a traditional Swedish
instrument related to a fiddle or a hurdy-gurdy.

Bernie and his wife Elaine moved to their countryside home in the northern Lot-et-Garonne (47) a few months ago and they are still settling in. The floor of Bernie’s studio is crisscrossed with cords, and instrument cases encircle the room.

Each of Bernie’s instruments comes with an origin story and during my visit I receive lessons in history, geography and sociology. He sits down at a small organ and points out that its shell is actually a carrying case. Organs like this were brought by pastors or priests to the battlefields during WWI to accompany hymns, he tells me.

Bernie Precious plays a tune on a portable organ dating from
World War I.

As he moves from banjos to mandolins to pipes, Bernie tells me his own story too. Born and raised in London, he moved to Scotland when he was in his mid-30s as a research scientist at the University of St. Andrews. There he met his future wife Elaine.

In addition containing Scotland’s oldest university, St. Andrews is known for golf and is home to what many consider to be the world’s oldest golf course. His friend was shooting a documentary about golf and asked Bernie to score the film, thus launching Bernie on a quest to find and master traditional Scottish musical instruments.

“My friend [the filmmaker] said I should think ‘sepia,'” Bernie says. “It was the only instruction he gave me.”

Bernie Precious plucks out a tune on a mandolin, an Italian relative of the lute.

Bernie has had little formal musical training. Other than taking piano lessons when he was 16 from a neighbor, he is a self-taught musician. His first instrument was a recorder that he learned to play when he was around 7. Four years later, he took up guitar, and by the age of 14, Bernie was playing in a local blues band.

Bernie Precious demonstrates the low whistle,
possibly the world’s oldest tuned instrument.

“I was a keyboardist [in several bands] for years,” he tells me. “But it became pretty boring [playing the same songs over and over]. I even fell asleep one night during a show.”

Bernie Precious demonstrates the banjo, one of many
musical instruments in his collection.

When he retired, Bernie and Elaine sought a sunny location in which to live. After spending a bit of time in Greece, they moved to southwest France two years ago. This past year, Bernie connected with the Folk Forum 47 Club that puts on monthly concerts and other musical events in Lauzun. The club’s First Friday Folk concerts include traditional songs performed by a core group of singers and guest artists performing folk music from around the world.

Musician Bernie Precious plays the hurdy-gurdy,
an instrument of Arabic origin.

Beyond the tuning pegs of Bernie Precious’s hurdy-gurdy
is a hand-carved figure

Each July, Bernie and Elaine join thousands of lovers of traditional music at Le Son Continu Festival at the Château d’Arts near La Châtre, located in the center of France in the Indre (36) department. Here more than 100 craftspersons demonstrate and sell their handmade traditional and ethnic instruments including bagpipes, accordions and hurdy-gurdies. Several instruments in Bernie’s collection were made by artisans he met at the festival.

Bernie Precious demonstrates a Weissenborn,
which he describes as a second cousin to the steel guitar.

This banjo, fashioned from a gourd, was made in America by a friend of
musician Bernie Precious.

I ask Bernie what kind of music he enjoys listening to and, after thinking for a moment he rattles off a list of a couple of dozen artists and genres. His taste, quite unsurprisingly, is eclectic.

School’s out for Toussaint — Kid-friendly fun

Autumn school holidays are upon us. It’s been more than a decade since I’ve had to worry about keeping kids entertained during school breaks, but I remember it well. The Toussaint vacation offers opportunities to get out and visit some places, some of which close for the winter right after break. Here are 10 ideas and a few extra Halloween-only events.

Villascopia

Villascopia is a premier place to visit Gallo-Romaine ruins.

Go way back in time to the Gallo-Roman era with a visit to Villascopia, located in Castelculier, about 7 km from Agen. Visits start with a Scenovision Spectacular film, continue through exhibition rooms and then a walk among the ruins. Villascopia is open during Toussaint from 2-5 p.m., and the venue is hosting a special Halloween event, Les Sorcelleries de Villascopia, from Oct. 23-31. For admission prices and more information, visit the Villascopia website here.

Aquarium du Périgord Noir

An alligator seems to be checking me out at Aquarium du Périgord Noir in Le Bugue.

The largest private freshwater aquarium in Europe is in La Bugue (24). It is home to around 6,000 fish that swim about in 66 basins containing 33 million liters of water. The young friend that we took along on our visit especially liked the alligators and snakes — go figure. A prehistoric-themed labyrinth is right next door. For ticket information and hours, visit the Aquarium du Périgord Noir website here.

Musée de l’Histoire du Costume

This display, created by Dolène Durieux at the at the Musée de l’Historire
du Costume in Lauzun, is inspired by a painting by Franz-Xaver Winterhalter.

I’ll admit I am partial to this small museum, and not only because it is located just outside my village of Lauzun (47). Madame Dolène Durieux is one of the sweetest people I’ve encountered, and her collection of handmade costumes on dolls is a delight to behold. Well-known historical figures as well as contemporary celebs are all here. The museum is open by appointment; call 05.53.94.10.62 or email durieux.m@wanadoo.fr.

Château du Gavaudun

The ramparts of the Château du Gavaudun offer a rocking view of
the surrounding valley.

Standing atop the Château-fort de Gavaudun (47), one can imagine keeping watch over the valley below. The fortress was built in the 11th century on the river Lede in the lovely Gavaudun Valley between Biron and Lacapelle. The fortress is just a skeleton now, but it is still spectacular (although not handicapped-accessible). Gavaudun can be visited 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. everyday until the end of October. On Thursdays during Toussaint, Gavaudun presents a special family treasure hunt for ages 6-8 and 9-12. For information, visit the Château du Gavaudun website here.

Maison des Gens de Garonne

A cannon stands at the site of Couthures’s original suspension
bridge. The village is home to Maison des Gens de Garonne.

This place is on my to-do list, and I finally have plans to visit Maison des Gens de Garonne before it closes for the season. The site, located in the pretty village of Couthures-sur-Garonne (47), close to Marmande, offers visitors a chance to learn about the history and people who inhabited this area of France. A visit includes two films (one in 3D). Maison des Gens de Garonne is open 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. from Oct. 21-Nov. 5. Admission is 8€ for adults, 6€ for ages 6-12 and free for age 5 and younger. The Gens de Garonne website doesn’t appear to be working, so to contact the attraction, call 05.53.20.67.76.

Canal Bike Ride

I met this badling of ducks along one of my first Canal bike rides.

For families on two wheels, there’s nothing like a long flat road with no cars. The path along the western extension of the Canal du Midi, or more properly called le Canal de la Garonne, is one of my favorite places to ride. It runs from Toulouse to the Atlantic. Look at a map and pick out a spot to park the car. If it’s a nice day, pack a lunch, or plan to stop at one of the villages along the canal.

Bridoire Château des Jeux

Games are the hook at Bridoire Château.

If you have children, you’ve likely visited the 12th-century castle Bridoire. This château caters to kids offering games and activities for young visitors. During the Toussaint holiday, Bridoire presents Les Fantômes de Bridoire, a special Halloween adventure from 2-6 p.m. each day. After Nov. 5, the château closes until spring. Bridoire is located in Ribagnac (24), near Monbazillac, 12 km south of Bergerac. For information about visiting this “castle of games,” visit the Château de Bridoire website here.

Les Grottes de Maxange

Another attraction that will soon end its season are the Maxange caves located in Le Buisson de Cadouin (24), between Bergerac and Sarlat. In 2000, Angel Carballero whose family who had operated a quarry here for two generations, discovered the network of grottes containing astonishing crystal geodes. The distinct conditions of the cave have resulted in rare geological art that is beautiful and eccentric. For hours and tariffs, visit the Les Grottes de Maxange here.

Take the train to Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a great family destination during Toussaint.

This city is so intertwined with wine, that some may not realize that it is a delightful destination for children too. Bordeaux’s CAP Sciences museum presents Luminopolis, which the Bordeaux Tourism website describes as “a city of knowledge that contains everything there is to know about light.” An Escape Game makes exploring the exhibition great fun. During the school vacations the museum is open 2-6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, and 2-7 p.m. on weekends. For details, visit the CAP Sciences website here.

Bordeaux’s Quai Richelieu is hosting the tall ship Mir from Oct. 27 to Nov. 7. Visitors can visit the ship, which is one of five sister ships built at the Lenin shipyard in Gdansk, Poland. The Mir, whose name means “peace”, is designed to be sailed with a crew of 200. Details can be found on the Bordeaux Tourism website here.

To top off the day, ride the ferris wheel at the Bordeaux Fun Fair, located at the Esplanade des Quinconces.

For information about Bordeaux, visit the Bordeaux Tourism website here.

Zoo de Mescoules

Although this small zoo is close by, I only just heard about it. And if I can spirit away my favorite young French friends for a few hours, I plan to visit Zoo de Mescoules. located between Bergerac and Eymet. I mean, who doesn’t love giant snakes, crocs, alligators and other slithery creatures from exotic locations? The privately owned zoo was established in 2009 and is open all year round. For hours and tariffs, visit the Zoo de Mescoules website here.

Halloween

Pumpkin-themed markets such as this one in Issigeac
(this year on Oct. 22), are a highlight of the Halloween season. 

I know Halloween is relatively new to France, but it’s catching on. Many villages are hosting special markets, and pumpkin-centric events. For example, Chateau de Duras (47) invites Halloween revelers to its Ado’lloween event for ages 10 and up beginning at 7 p.m. on Oct. 31. Halloween treasure hunts are taking place in Allemans-du-Dropt and Casteljaloux (sign up at the local tourism offices). Older kids who seek some Halloween cinematic scares can head to the Cinema Le Plaza in Marmande for a triple feature: “The Addams Family,” at 7 p.m.; Francis Ford Coppola’s “Dracula” at 9:15 p.m. (both in VF); and the Stephen King/Brian de Palma classic “Carrie” at 11:30 p.m. (in English). Each film’s admission is 4.30 € .

Stop by your local tourism office or Mairie to find out what’s happening on Halloween in your village.