Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Meet Dounyo, the glass-bender

Glass artist Dounyo Montbazet at work in her shop in Mouleydier

I am one of those people who, when passing an artisan’s shop, peek in the window but am shy about actually entering because I think I may be interrupting the artist or be pressured into buying something. I explain this to artist Dounyo Montbazet during a recent afternoon visit. She laughs, and says that she sees people like me pass by her shop frequently.

“There’s no reason to be shy,” Dounyo says. “You aren’t interrupting me. In fact, the thing I love the most is to show people what I’m doing.”

Glass artist Dounyo Montbazet at work in her shop in Mouleydier

What she is doing involves glass tubes, powdered paint, fire, safety goggles, a rubber tube, a heavy apron, steady hands and an artist’s skill. Her new shop, La Verrerie de Dounyo in Mouleydier (24) opened in March. Located on a prominent corner in this village along the Dordogne river between Bergerac and Lalinde, the shop is filled with wine glasses, vases, jewelry and lamps in graceful shapes and swirling colors.

Artist Dounyo Montbazet creates unusual glassware at her shop in Mouleydier.

A pineapple-shaped vase starts to take shape from the
flame and breath of artist Douyo Montbazet.

The 41-year-old artist learned the craft of glass-bending after attending university in Strasbourg where she studied chemistry.

“It was through chemistry that I discovered glass and torches,” she says.

Unable to find a job in her field, Dounyo turned her attention to art and embarked on a two-year apprenticeship with a professional glass-blower.

Unusually shaped wine glasses by artist Dounyo Montbazet


Meanwhile, Dounyo married longtime family friend François Montbazet and had the first of four sons. The boys are now ages 4 to 18. The family moved to the Bergerac area from the Paris suburbs in 2011.

Coquetiers (egg cups) created by artist Dounyo Montbazet


In addition to glass arts, Dounyo’s passions include ballet (she still takes classes) and writing. She has written and published a book of short stories and four novels. She says that it was Stephen King who inspired her to write.

“I read a preface in one of his books that advised those who want to be writers to start by simply sitting down and writing,” she says. “Although with the shop and the children, I have very little time to write these days.”

Vases created by artist Dounyo Montbazet displayed at a recent
exhibition in Monbazillac


While Dounyo struggles to repair a hole in a pineapple-shaped vase, François is busy upstairs refurbishing an apartment that the couple plans to rent to vacationers. As the torch blazes, Dounyo shows me the technique of patching mistakes in her creations. Eventually, with a resigned shrug, she turns off the burner and puts aside the unfinished vase.

“Some days are just like that,” she signs. “It seems as if nothing goes right.”

But I have no doubt that other days, things go quite right for this talented artist.

Vase-in-progress by glass artist Dounyo Montbazet


La Verrerie de Dounyo is located at 1 rue du Dr. Daudé Lagrave in Mouleydier. Summer hours are 3-6 p.m. Mondays, 10 a.m. to noon and 3-6:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, and 10 a.m. to noon and 3-6 p.m. Sundays.





Sunday, June 18, 2017

Sunny days in Brittany: Two out of three ain't bad

The Carnac countryside in southern Brittany is dotted with ancient megaliths.

When visiting Brittany in spring, one has to expect a little rain. During our first visit to this region (named Bretagne in French) in northwest France, we are lucky enough to have two sunny days. The third day it pours, causing us to cancel a planned visit to the Paimpont forest, but we console ourselves with scrumptious Kouign Amann (pastry oozing with butter) and getting acquainted with Paul Gauguin. But I'm getting ahead of myself.


The seaside near our campground in Le Raguénès gives us our first
glimpse of the Brittany coast.

For this little road trip, we decide to (kinda) camp. We've booked a mobile home in a Eurocamp park, just a 10-minute walk from the sea. There are resorts like this throughout Europe. Since we're here so early in the season, we've snagged a bargain rate. Later in the summer, this place will be teeming with families making use of the water slide and outdoor pools, but for now it's quiet and nearly deserted.


Concarneau


Ken poses with a big anchor on the bridge to the walled city in Carcaneau.

First thing in the morning we set out for Carcaneau, France's third-most important fishing port. The main tourist attraction here is the old walled city — ville close. The well-preserved neighborhood is set on an island 1,150 yards across. The square and surrounding narrow cobbled streets are charming, and we enjoy pretty views from the top of the ramparts.

The main square in Carcaneau is nearly empty on the morning of our visit.

Boats are moored at the inner harbor in Carcaneau.

A stone man keeps watch on a wall in Carcaneau.

This window contains another little stone man in Carcaneau.

A horse sits on a rooftop in Carcaneau.

Quimper


Quimper is the unofficial capital of Cornouaille, a historical region of Brittany steeped in culture, art and nature. The city stands at the confluence of the Odet, Steir and Jet rivers; appropriately enough, Quimper's Breton name is Kemper, which means "meeting place of three rivers."

A souvenir shop is adorned with ceramic bowls, a popular Quimper momento.

We spend a few hours exploring the city and have a great debate over where to eat lunch. I win, so the only thing left to do is choose from one of the dozens of crêperies here.

While in Quimper, we have to try authentic Brittany crêpes, and I choose the
picture-worthy smoked salmon with creamy leek sauce.

After lunch we wind up our visit to Quimper with a visit to Faïencerie de Quimper where the beautiful pottery for which this area is famous is created. Unlike the inexpensive knock-offs found in the local shops, this store (which also offers tours of its workshop) stocks the real thing ... lovely, but way out of my price range.

I develop a case of ceramic-envy in the Faïencerie de Quimper shop.

La Mise au Tombeau was installed in Quimper's Cathédrale Saint-Corentin in 1868.


I allow Ken to take my picture in Place Terre au Duc in Quimper.

Carnac

Église Saint-Cornély de Carnac is a mixture of
architectural styles.

Tuesday turns out to be the best day (weather-wise) of our trip. With clear blue skies we've picked the perfect day to check out the Alignements de Carnac. This area offers an exceptional archaeological landscape. More than 3,000 menhirs dominate the surrounding fields and pastures.


A farmhouse sits at the edge of a field of megaliths in Carnac.

The Carnac alignments (rows of standing stones) were erected in the Neolithic era (between the fifth and third millennia B.C.). The megalithic landscape includes menhirs (lone stones), mounds (individual tombs), and dolmens (collective tombs). No one know for sure why the stones were erected and arranged this way. Through the ages, the megaliths were at various times believed to be Roman legionaries turned to stone, magical rocks, Celtic temples, or burial grounds. In the last century, efforts have been made to preserve the megaliths and the land surrounding them. Visitors can walk in the fields among the stones in the winter, but between May and September must be part of small guided groups in order to preserve the ecology of the land.

The Alignments of Carnac are a 6,000-year-old mystery. 

Stacked stones, or dolmens, in Carnac are believed to be ancient tombs.

Presqu'ile de Quiberon


Yes, the sea really is that blue on the day of our visit to Quiberon.

As mid-day approaches we head to the Quiberon Peninsula, once an offshore island. The two-lane road along the peninsula is narrow enough for us to see the calm sheltered waters of the Baie de Quiberon to our left (east) and the tempestuous Côte Sauvage of the Atlantic Ocean to our right.

Auray


Saint-Goustan in Auray was once a busy port.

Perhaps my favorite village we visit on this little trip to Brittany is Auray. After our requisite stop at the tourism office, we follow the suggested route that takes us by Église Saint-Gildas, named for a monk from Cornwall who founded an abbey near here in the 6th century. Half-timbered houses from the 16th century and narrow freestone mansions from the 17th century line Place de la République, Auray's economic center since the Middle Ages.

Auray's Saint-Gildas Church contains a magnificent sculpted wooden organ.

From the main part of town we head down a steep hill to the Saint-Goustan quarter. This port was once one of the region's busiest, but the development of the nearby Lorient port and the railroad diminished its importance.

In 1776, Auray had a visitor, one that is of particular interest to us. Benjamin Franklin set off across the Atlantic to Nantes, entrusted with the mission of asking for France's help in the upcoming War of Independence. Bad weather forced Franklin's ship to dock at Auray where he spent the night before continuing on by land to Nantes.

Auray's port, Saint-Goustan, contains a quay named in honor of Benjamin Franklin.

This little stone watcher on a building in Auray sits above a sundial.

Pont-Aven


From beneath my umbrella on the opposite bank of the Aven river, I spot
this lovely vine-covered house in Pont-Aven.

OK, so Pont-Aven may be our second choice for where to spend our third and final day here, but the little artists' colony turns out to be a charming consolation prize, even in the rain. In addition to galettes ( butter biscuits), the village is best known for its association with post-Impressionist painter Paul Gauguin. At the end of the 19th century, the artist and his contemporaries, including Émile Bernard, Paul Sérusier and Maurice Denis,  formed the École de Pont-Aven art movement, which focused on color and symbolism. Housed in an annex of L'Hôtel Julia (which has its own fascinating history) Musée de Pont-Aven contains an impressive collection of works by artists of the Pont-Aven School.

Paul Gauguin created this zincography entitled Les Dames de la mer, Bretagne
in 1889.

Musée de Pont-Aven contains around 200 paintings and graphic artworks
of the famous Pont-Aven School.

This W.C. (public restroom) in Pont-Aven has to be
one of the most unusual we've encountered.


As the summer heats up here in France, our travels cool down. For the next few months we'll be sticking close to home, enjoying local events, spending time with friends (especially those with swimming pools), and avoiding large crowds. While the next big trip won't be until fall, you can keep up with me via Lot of Livin', the blog I write for the AngloInfo website, which you can find by clicking here.




Friday, June 9, 2017

Visions of liberté in Marmande

Galerie Égrégore in Marmande (47) opens its summer season with a freedom-themed exposition. The gallery put out a call to artists throughout France to create pieces depicting their visions of liberté. Around 2,000 artists responded. Eventually judges pared down the list to 1,000, then 100, and finally to 10 finalists. Works by these 10 artists are on display at the gallery through September 17.


This painting by Louis Gagez is part of Galerie Égrégore's challenge liberté
exhibition.

'Tibati' by sculptor Van Kal Mon is part of
Galerie Égrégore's challenge liberté exhibition.

The concept of liberté — freedom — as created by these artists is depicted through photographs, sculptures and paintings, and together the exhibition is on a par with modern art museums found in much larger cities.

This painting by Raphaëlle Boutié is part of Galerie
Égrégore's challenge liberté exhibition.

This sculpture by Iziak is part of Galerie Égrégore's
challenge liberté exhibition.

Local VIPs spoke at the vernissage for Galerie Égrégore's challenge liberté exhibition on June 4, 2017.

Local VIPs, artists and friends and family gathered at an opening day vernissage on June 4 where the winning artist was announced. However, the public is invited to vote for their favorite artist during the run of the exhibition.

Featured artists, places of residence, and mediums are:

  • Anne Bertoin, Lyon (69), painter
  • Raphaëlle Boutié, Aix-en-Provence (13), painter
  • Vincent Descotils, Combs-la-Ville, photographer
  • Louis Gagez, Vourney (38), painter
  • Etienne Gros, Ile de France (8), painter
  • Iziak, Normandy, painter and sculptor
  • Marc Krüger, Belgium, photographer
  • François Legoubin, Paris and l'Ariege (9), painter
  • Gérald Van Kal Mon, Eymet (24), sculptor
  • Oxo Yutz, Calvados (14), painter


Paintings by François Legoubin are part of Galerie Égrégore's
challenge liberté exhibition.

Galerie Egregore is located at 92 Boulevard Meyniel, Marmande. Hours are 2-7 p.m. every day except Tuesday. Admission is free, although guests are invited to donate a few euros.

Galerie Égrégore in Marmande is hosting the freedom challenge exhibition
through Sept. 17, 2017.