In the pink: Montauban

Montauban’s Pont Vieux spans the Tarn river.

A recent day trip to Montauban, the largest city in the Tarn-et-Garonne, yields some pleasant surprises. So many villages in this area of France seem to be suffering — as evidenced by empty storefronts — and most close down for the winter. But Montauban appears to be quite healthy (thank you) and fairly lively, but without annoying crowds. We’ve picked a sunny day for our visit — the blue skies are a perfect backdrop to the pink brick buildings and sparkling Tarn river.

Montauban’s Place Nationale features unusual double arcades.

Montauban wears its age quite well. It is France’s second oldest bastide (after Mont-de-Marsan). Its central square, Place Nationale, is surrounded by unusual double arcades. The square and much of the medieval city were damaged by fires in 1614 and 1649 and were rebuilt “thanks to the royal generosity and willingness of consuls” in the early 18th century, according to the Montauban Tourism Office. The buildings surrounding the square, like much of Montauban, are constructed of the same pink-colored brick that gives nearby Toulouse its nickname: la ville rose — the pink city.

Place Nationale in Montauban

Montauban’s tourism office is located in the former Jesuits’ College, which dates back to 1629. Here we are given a handy brochure to guide us on a walking tour of the city. During the French Revolution, this building was used as a gun foundry.

Pénélope by sculptor Emile-Antoine Bourdelle
stands outside Montauban’s Visitors Center.

Our stroll takes us across the Tarn river twice, first via Pont Neuf, from which we enjoy an excellent view of Pont Vieux. The old bridge was built in the 14th century, and even then was known for its exceptional flat roadway. Seven high arches span the river below.

Montauban from Pont Vieux

The high arches of Pont Vieux in Montauban accommodate the water of the Tarn.

Montauban’s center contains two notable churches. The oldest is Église Saint-Jacques, which, along with Pont Vieux, is the only remaining medieval landmark in town, having been spared from the fires. The mosaic above the church’s Neo-Romanesque portal was added in the 19th century, but one can see cannonball scars on the facade from a siege in 1621.

Neo-Romanesque facade of Église Saint-Jacques in Montauban

Interior detail of Église Saint-Jacques in Montauban

Several blocks away, Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption provides a contrast in style compared to Saint-Jacques. Notre-Dame was built of white stone on the town’s highest plateau in the 1700s. Its interior is light and airy and quite beautiful. “The View of Louis XIII,” painted in 1824 by Montauban-born artist Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, hangs in the cathedral.

Cathédral Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption in Montauban

Interior Cathédral Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption in Montauban

The Ingres Museum, housed in a large building overlooking the river, features sculptures by Emile-Antoine Bourdelle as well as significant stone and archaeological pieces and a collection of 17th- and 18th-century European paintings. However, the Ingres Museum is closed for the next three years as it undergoes major renovations. Just across the road is the Victor Brun Natural History Museum where visitors can see lifelike dioramas, stuffed animals, and 23- to 40 million-year old fossils. Musée Victor Brun is open 10 a.m. to noon and 2-6 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, and 2-6 p.m. Sunday. Other museums in Montauban are dedicated to the Resistance, toys, and artisans. See the Montauban tourism website for details.

Montauban’s Musée Ingres is closed for renovations.

In the mid-18th-century, a theater was built in Montauban, but it proved to be too small and was rebuilt a century later. The facade of Théâtre Olympe de Gouges is adorned with four bas reliefs by the sculptor Abbal, representing Dance, Music, Poetry, and Comedy. Concerts, theater, dance, children’s events and spectacles of all types are presented here year-round. For a schedule, visit the Theatre de Montauban website.

Théâtre Olympe de Gouge in Montauban

We wind down our visit with a late lunch in Place Nationale. It’s mid-afternoon on a weekday so we share the square with just a few visitors who, like us, are thoroughly enjoying this beautiful, crisp day.

Looking up at Montauban’s old wall

Here’s a bit of Montauban trivia about the city’s most famous visitor: Leonardo Da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa” was briefly hidden here in a secret vault behind a wall cellar during World War II, and the masterpiece narrowly escaped an acid-wielding attacker during a visit to Montauban in 1956.