Pondering war and peace in Normandy

Normandy American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer

As I write this, it is Memorial Day in America and the 72nd anniversary of D-Day, June 6, 1944, is approaching. Recently, we took our first trip to Normandy where we visited some of the landing beaches, sites, memorials and cemeteries that prominently figured into D-Day, the beginning of the end of World War II.

21,000 U.S. troops landed at Utah Beach on D-Day, along with
14,000 airborne troops. 

225 U.S. Rangers scaled Pointe du Hoc on D-Day. Initially there were only
15 casualties, but during the ensuing battles to fend off five
German counterattacks, 70 percent of the troops were lost.

We prepare for our trip with a bit of homework: We watch a few documentaries and pore over Normandy guidebooks in order to refresh our memories. Many of the basics learned in school have been replaced in our minds with scenes from "Saving Private Ryan" and "The Longest Day."

Higgins Boat Monument at Utah Beach honors the important role
of landing crafts on D-Day and in other WWII operations.

Dozens of museums and memorials line the beaches along the northern coast of France. where in five days 326,547 troops from a dozen countries entered France and ultimately liberated the country and defeated Nazi Germany.

More than 9,000 U.S. soldiers are buried at the Normandy
American Cemetery on a bluff overlooking Omaha Beach.

For me, the German cemetery at La Cambe is the most moving site
of our Normandy trip. More than 21,000 German soldiers are buried here
— each was once somebody's child.

The Urville cemetery in Granville-Langannerie is the only Polish WWII
cemetery in France. Most of the 696 men buried here belonged to
Major-General Maczek's 1st Armored Division, which
joined the Battle of Normandy in August 1944.

We opt to skip the museums centered around weaponry or specific battles and instead spend the day outdoors, walking along the landing beaches and visiting cemeteries where thousands of those who died in the Battle of Normandy are buried. Ultimately more than 425,000 allied and German soldiers died or went missing between D-Day and the end of August when Paris was liberated. The reverence we feel for these losses is combined with sadness and an overwhelming sense of the futility of war.

Immortalized by the film "The Longest Day," American
Pvt. John Steele's parachute was caught on the church steeple
in Sainte-Mère-Église, the first French town to be liberated.
Steele hung here for two hours before being taken prisoner
by the Germans; he was later released. Today a mannequin hangs
in his honor and stained-glass windows in the church are
dedicated to the paratroopers.

On a lighter note, we are tickled by the name of this
coiffure in Sainte-Mère-Église.

A billboard in Falaise shows what the square and Saint-Gervais church
looked like during the Battle of Normandy.

Église Saint-Gervais in Falaise

A museum dedicated to the civilian casualties of the
Battle of Normandy opened this month in Falaise.

Toward the end of our week in Normandy, we spend a half day at the Caen Memorial Centre for History and Peace. Here we find perspective and understanding of the complex events leading to war, the horrific barbarism of the Nazis and the Japanese, the impact the German occupation had on the France, and the Cold War. The Caen Memorial is less about the strategy of war and more focused on understanding. This should be a mandatory field trip for all politicians.

A huge sculpture based on the iconic Alfred Eisenstaedt
photograph of a sailor kissing a nurse in Times Square
on V-J Day stands outside the Caen Memorial.

Inside the Caen Memorial

Pieces of the Berlin wall are part of the Cold War
exhibition at the Caen Memorial.

Sculpture at the Caen Memorial

Les Arques — art colony in the heart of Quercy

The tiny village of Les Arques has been a haven to artists since 1988. Each year, several visual artists are invited to live here and create art, which is then exhibited throughout the summer.

View through a wall in Les Arques

The heart of the village belongs to sculptor Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), and a museum dedicated to him is located at the top of the road that runs through town. Five of Zadkine’s sculptures can be seen in and around Église Saint-Laurent, opposite Museé Zadkine. The church itself is a simple and lovely Romanesque building dating from the 12th century.

Sculpture by Ossip Zadkine in Les Arques

Église Saint-Laurent (Saint Lawrence Church) in Les Arques

Sculpture by Ossip Zadkine in Église Saint-Laurent in Les Arques

Zadkine was born in Byelorussia and spent most of his life in France. He settled in Les Arques in 1934, where he created his most significant works. Many of his stone, bronze and terracotta sculptures are on display here at the Museé Zadkine as well as at the museum that bears his name in Paris. The Les Arques museum also features oil paintings and lithographs by Zadkine’s wife, artist Valentine Prax (1897-1981).

Museé Zadkine is open every day except Mondays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3-7 p.m. April 1 to Oct. 31; from 2-6 p.m. Nov. 1 to March 31; closed in January. Call 05.65.22.83.37 or visit musees.lot.fr for more information

Home for artists-in-residence in Les Arques

In addition to the guest artists-in-residence program, the village offers houses and workshops to artists, writers and musicians for a nominal cost from July to November, thanks to the patronage of the association Les Ateliers Arques, the Ministry of Culture/DRAC Midi-Pyrénées, Midi-Pyrénées region, the department of Lot and the Community of Communes Salviac Cazals. 

Pretty house in Les Arques

The summer exhibition begins with a reception on June 8, 2016. Tours and workshops are available for free or for a nominal fee. For information, call Clémence Laporte at 05.65.22.81.70 or visit ateliersdesarques.com.

Une porte bleue in Les Arques

Les Arques is located in the Lot Department, 23 km from Cahors, the traditional capital of Quercy. A small nature workshop is housed in one of the ancient buildings. The village has what I am told is an excellent restaurant, La Recreation, but no other services to speak of. Nearby are the villages of Puy l’Eveque and Villefranche-du-Périgord where visitors can find a variety of places to eat.

Nature workshop in Les Arques

Un joli chat rests on a wall in Les Arques.

Here and high in Mont-Saint-Michel

A view of Mont-Saint-Michel from the bridge connecting it to the mainland

I've dreamed of visiting le Mont-Saint-Michel for a long time. And I'm not alone: With more than a million tourists annually, this majestic medieval walled city is France's top tourist destination outside of Paris. Located where Normandy and Brittany meet, Mont-Saint-Michel stands by itself on a granite outcrop, surrounded by the flats of the Couesnon river estuary.

View of the Couesnon river estuary from Mont-Saint-Michel

We arrive early on a spring morning. It's a weekday, but also an unofficial holiday, so by the time we leave, the massive parking lot will be full and traffic will be backed up for 10 km along the access road. We take advantage of the W.C.'s at the visitors center then board the free shuttle bus which takes us two-thirds of the way across the modern bridge across the mud flats. (My friend had recommended that we hike to le Mont, but we aren't that hardy and we haven't packed the appropriate attire.)

Fishing boat on the flats of the Couesnon estuary at Mont-Saint-Michel

It's about a five-minute walk (more with with stops to take pictures) from where we disembark the bus to the city gates. We join a hefty crowd and slowly inch our way up the main rue past dozens of souvenir shops and restaurants. I note that that the famous omelets served at Restaurant Le Mére Poulard cost €35 (about $40). Soon the famous eatery will be packed with hungry tourists.

The base of the busy, and oh-so-narrow shopping
street in Mont-Saint-Michel

How much would you pay for a world-famous omelet? Mére Poulard's are €35.

Actually, most everyone here is a tourist. The village has about 30 residents. Despite the crowds, there would be something quite magical about having le Mont-Saint-Michel as your address.

Pretty home in Mont-Saint-Michel

Rooftops and a French flag as viewed from Mont-Saint-Michel

Once off the main drag, the throngs dissipate and we are free to explore the narrow streets and leisurely walk along the ancient ramparts. 

A cemetery on the way to the abbey in Mont-Saint-Michel

Saint-George and the Dragon inside
 Église Saint-Pierre on Mont-Saint-Michel

Le Mont-Saint-Michel's monastery was considered to be one of the great places of learning during the Middle Ages. Its strategic location was important in wars between the Normans and the Bretons, the French and the Normans, and the French and the English. Eventually, William the Conqueror/Duke of Normandy, set up his court at Mont-Saint-Michel. The French captured and burned down the town in 1204, then subsequently rebuilt it. Later, the English tried, unsuccessfully, to re-take Mont-Saint-Michel during the Hundred Years' War.

A grand stairway leads to the entrance to the
Benedictine abbey on Mont-Saint-Michel.

Our visit includes a tour of the Benedictine abbey that sits atop the mountain. The foundation of the massive abbey is 1,000 years old. According to legend, the Archangel Michael told the local bishop to "build here and build high." The church's architectural potpourri ranges from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century when its iconic spire was added. 

Relief sculpture of the Archangel Michael offering a suggestion to the local bishop 

Cloister at Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey

Window and bench in the Guests' Hall at
Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey

Light art is reflected on pillars in the crypt at Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey.

An enormous wheel in the monks' ossuary was installed in 1820
and used to hoist provisions to the prisoners held in Mont-
Saint-Michel Abbey when it was a prison. It's a replica 
of the pulleys used for hoisting building materials in the Middle Ages.

Knights' Hall at Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey

On the way back to our lodgings near Caen, we talk about our visit to Mont-Saint-Michel. The village and abbey are impressive, but the crowds are  outrageous. If you plan to visit, do so in the off-season on a weekday and arrive early (although Mont-Saint-Michel at night is supposed to be pretty spectacular). We picked a good weather day ... always a bonus. We are proud that we skipped the overpriced food and chachkies, but wish we had packed a picnic. We're starving, but €35 for an omelet? Sheesh!

A visit to the land of chestnuts

Villefranche du Périgord

Le pays du châtaignier, or chestnut tree country, located in the Périgord Noir, is our destination one recent, and unfortunately, gray day. We head first to the pretty 13th-century bastide Villefranche du Périgord.

Arcades in the bastide Villefranche du Périgord

Villefranche du Périgord was founded by Alphonse de Poitiers, brother of Louis IX in 1261. In the center of its square sits a large covered marketplace, which holds daily cèpe markets during mushroom season. A nice selection of stores and restaurants are housed under the arcades, and the 19th-century église has an unusual façade. The church was desgned by Paul Abadie, architect of the Sacré Cœur in Paris.

Our Lady Assomption church is located in Villefranche du Périgord.

We decide to let the rain shower pass and visit the Maison de la Châtaigne, located in the tourist office. With posters, videos and hands-on displays, the museum is an appealing destination for children and others who wish to know all about chestnuts and mushrooms.

A mushroom display in Maison de la Châtaigne in Villefranche du Périgord

After the rain stops, we talk a walk around the village, using a map provided by the tourist office. Sans carte, we might have missed the ramparts. Although the wall is small, the view is lovely and green. The ramparts were constructed when the peaceful bastide was under British rule.

Rue des Remparts in Villefranche du Périgord

If you’re a chestnut connoisseur, mark your calendars for the third Sunday in October, when Villefranche du Périgord holds its annual Fête de la Chátaigne. The village’s weekly Saturday morning markets are supplemented by Tuesday evening markets in August.

Colorful goose on rue Notre Dame in
Villefranche du Périgord

Besse

Just 5 km up the road from Villefranche du Périgord, is our next stop: the tiny town of Besse. We seem to have the whole place to ourselves, which gives us time to peacefully appreciate l’église Saint-Martin.

L’église Saint-Martin in Besse

Formerly a Benedictine priory, the Romanesque church was built in the late 11th century. Added to and restored over the centuries, a most exciting discovery was made in 1961: Fragments of frescos dating from the 16th century are remarkably colorful. The beautiful carvings above the arched doorway also are worth a visit to Besse.

L’église Saint-Martin in Besse

16th-century frescos in the church in Besse

A bicycle serves as a flower box holder in Besse

Oversized pencil-holder in Besse