Wednesday, May 11, 2016

A visit to the land of chestnuts

Villefranche du Périgord


Le pays du châtaignier, or chestnut tree country, located in the Périgord Noir, is our destination one recent, and unfortunately, gray day. We head first to the pretty 13th-century bastide Villefranche du Périgord.

Arcades in the bastide Villefranche du Périgord


Villefranche du Périgord was founded by Alphonse de Poitiers, brother of Louis IX in 1261. In the center of its square sits a large covered marketplace, which holds daily cèpe markets during mushroom season. A nice selection of stores and restaurants are housed under the arcades, and the 19th-century église has an unusual façade. The church was desgned by Paul Abadie, architect of the Sacré Cœur in Paris.

Our Lady Assomption church is located in Villefranche du Périgord.


We decide to let the rain shower pass and visit the Maison de la Châtaigne, located in the tourist office. With posters, videos and hands-on displays, the museum is an appealing destination for children and others who wish to know all about chestnuts and mushrooms.

A mushroom display in Maison de la Châtaigne in Villefranche du Périgord


After the rain stops, we talk a walk around the village, using a map provided by the tourist office. Sans carte, we might have missed the ramparts. Although the wall is small, the view is lovely and green. The ramparts were constructed when the peaceful bastide was under British rule.

Rue des Remparts in Villefranche du Périgord


If you’re a chestnut connoisseur, mark your calendars for the third Sunday in October, when Villefranche du Périgord holds its annual Fête de la Chátaigne. The village’s weekly Saturday morning markets are supplemented by Tuesday evening markets in August.

Colorful goose on rue Notre Dame in
Villefranche du Périgord

Besse


Just 5 km up the road from Villefranche du Périgord, is our next stop: the tiny town of Besse. We seem to have the whole place to ourselves, which gives us time to peacefully appreciate l’église Saint-Martin.

L’église Saint-Martin in Besse

Formerly a Benedictine priory, the Romanesque church was built in the late 11th century. Added to and restored over the centuries, a most exciting discovery was made in 1961: Fragments of frescos dating from the 16th century are remarkably colorful. The beautiful carvings above the arched doorway also are worth a visit to Besse.

L’église Saint-Martin in Besse


16th-century frescos in the church in Besse


A bicycle serves as a flower box holder in Besse



Oversized pencil-holder in Besse





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