Dôme-it!

Our very special visitor is returning home soon, so we head to France's Massif Central region for a few days for one last road trip. Since I am the family's self-appointed tour director, and since I want to see some volcanos, dammit, our first stop is at Puy de Dôme, one of France's "Grand Sites."


Since this is just the beginning of little getaway, we take our time along the way and enjoy les vues incroyables. 

The Mont Dômes (or Les Puys) chain of volcanos is part of parc naturel régional des Volcans d’Auvergne, Europe's largest regional park and one of its oldest. The 40-kilometer chain has around 80 dormant volcano domes.

In researching this post, I came across an interesting notation about the Puy de Dômes département on Wikipedia:

Inhabitants were called Puydedomois until December 2005. With effect from Spring 2006, in response to a letter writing campaign, the name used for the inhabitants was changed by the departmental General Council to Puydômois, and this is the name that has since then been used in all official documents and publications. 

I'm not sure how many authentic Puydômois we meet that day, but for a major tourist attraction, there sure aren't a lot of visitors ... a sign of the dismal summer season local business owners have been lamenting.

We arrive at Puy de Dôme too late in the day for a hike to the top. Another option, is a train (cars are not allowed), and once at the top, visitors can find several nature hiking trails. In fact, there are more than 3,000 hiking trails in the area. Since thunder showers are threatening, we are content to explore the volcano's base and visitors center, where we find memorabilia from the 1964 Tour de France. Of course everyone must know that one of the most exciting moments in Tour history took place here that year when Raymond Poulidor and Jacques Anquetil raced up the mountain nearly side-by-side. (I actually had no idea; thanks again Wikipedia.) 

I have become an avid collector of tourist attraction pamphlets, and before we're even out of the parking lot, I already am planning our next trip to the Auvergne department when we can spend a week or so, hiking, enjoying the natural spas and spending some quality time on la route des fromages with some new friends: bleu d'auvergne, fourme d'ambert, cantal, salers, and Saint-nectaire. We'll pass on the paragliding, though.

Bastid'art is high-flying entertainment

If high-wire acts and acrobats take your breath away, or if you fancy clowns or marionettes, don't miss this weekend's Bastid'art. It's the 20th year for the arts festival, which is held in the streets of Miramont-de-Guyenne (47).

Circo Bocabajo, from Spain and Argentina

The weekend actually kicks off in Marmande on Thursday evening, July 31. The following day, the festivities move to Miramont, where there is virtually non-stop entertainment beginning around noon on Friday, Aug. 1 and at 10 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday, Aug. 2-3. Several performances charge a modest admission, but the vast majority are gratuite.

This will be my third Bastid'art and I plan to catch all three days, including (sshhh, it's a surprise) a flash mob on Saturday at 1930. More than 50 companies of artists from around the world are scheduled to perform at this year's Bastid'art.

Here are some photos from last year's event:

Circo Bocabajo, from Spain and Argentina

From Italy, Mattatoio Sospeso

Alchymere, from the Haute-Garonne, France

Clown/mime Roland Zee, from Paris

Bulles de Zinc from Loire Atlantique, France

Les FrHaven acrobats from Alpes Maritimes, France

Bastid'art publishes a great little program. Be sure to pick one up when you arrive at the event so you can plan out your day. For more information, visit the Bastid'art website here.

It's raining men ... in bike shorts

The Tour de France came to our neck of the woods today. We watched from the hilltop village of Monbazillac, about 10 km before the race ended for the day in Bergerac. Maybe you saw us on TV. We were the wet ones with the cheerful dispositions.

The pre-game show: Toss some swag my way, SVP

Don't rain on my race

The main event: Allons-y!

Play a little at Bridoire

Bridoire calls itself le château des jeux — the castle of games — so on a recent visit we put that motto to the test: What better "taste tester" than a lively 5-year-old?

Château Bridoire

The castle's history is not an entirely happy one. Built in the 12th century, Bridoire has seen battles of religion and decades of plunder. Its current owners, Catherine and Jacques Guyot, bought Bridoire in 2011 and brought it back to life. As they describe in the visitors' guide:

"After 9 months work to repair the damage of time and by people, Bridoire has risen from the ashes and is now open to the public. We are proud to welcome you here and share this exhilarating moment with you."

As we approach Bridoire, after parking just across the lane and paying a reasonable tarif of 8€ adult, 5€ child, we cross an expansive yard with intriguing, low-tech games that beckon. Knowing we face a time limit on our young friend's attention span, we decide to tour first and play later.

We start our visit in the kitchen on the ground floor where I find myself with a serious case of copper-pot envy.

Château Bridoire

Château Bridoire

We also visit the château's dining, billard and sitting rooms as well as its chapel. Along the way, we stop to admire (and try on) some armor.

Château Bridoire

Champing at the bit to play, we head outside where we spend more than an hour, trying out various games within the château grounds and just beyond the gate.

Château Bridoire

Château Bridoire

Château Bridoire

Château Bridoire

Château Bridoire

It's time for a snack ... good thing la maman de notre petit ami packed a generous amount of food with which to refuel, because the fun is not yet over. Next stop: corn maze!

Less than two minutes later, we pull into the parking lot at Labyrinthe Végétal, les Fées Mères (the fairy mothers). We are given our choice of "clues" to help guide us through the extensive corn maze. We let our young friend lead the way, although we insist on holding hands so he doesn't take off and leave us lost, forever, in the labyrinthe.

Labyrinthe Végétal

Labyrinthe Végétal

Labyrinthe Végétal

Spoiler alert: We successfully find our way to the exit. And while the old folks rest and have a cold refreshment, le garçon amuses himself in the bounce house. He'd be there still if we hadn't bribed him with another snack.

Labyrinthe Végétal

Labyrinthe Végétal has a pleasant snack bar with reasonable prices, a covered picnic area, a selection of farm animals for petting and an intriguing looking WC, which I didn't visit, but do include a picture below for your viewing pleasure.

Latrine at Labyrinthe Végétal

Château Bridoire (24240 Ribagnac) is located 12 km south of Bergerac. The château is open every day 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. in the summer, and for night visits on Thursdays and Saturdays until August 23. For more information, visit chateaudebridoire.com.

 (24240 Ribagnac) is open every day until September 15 from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and in the evening on Thursdays and Fridays. Visit les-fees-meres.fr for more information.