Head for the hills: Seillans

Known as one of France's plus beaux villages, it is easy to understand why my sister set her sights on buying a little pied-à-terre in the hilltop town of Seillans. Alas, the apartment she wanted was sold before she had the chance to put in an offer, but that doesn't diminish her passion for this artsy area.

The steep streets of Seillans are too narrow for cars, and sweet surprises seem to appear at every turn: whimsical planter boxes, fountain-watering bouquets and even a dragon. Surreal artist Max Ernst spent the last 12 years of his life here, and his widow, Dorothy Tanning, donated dozens of works to Seillans. The village also owns hundreds of works of Franco-Polish artist Stan Appenzeller, who lived here from 1956 to 1980. 

We take une pause café and consider options for lunch. Since it's Friday, my sister suggests we return to St-Raphaël and try the aïoli, a local specialty that is offered as le vendredi midi spécial. With all in agreement about the benefits of being infused with garlic, we catch the bus back to St-Raphaël.