Drifting through the Valley of Man

The Vezere Valley from the river

Readers of this blog may notice I recently posted a story of a canoe trip on the Dordogne. Although similar, a day spent on the Vézère offers a somewhat different experience — trading medieval châteaux for prehistoric dwellings. As I paddle the 19-km route from Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère to the base camp at Les Eyzies de Tayac, I sense an uncanny connection to those who lived in caves high above the shores some 30,000 years ago.

A canoe trip on the Vézère river passes by high rocky
cliffs and large rock ledges.

The Vézère Valley is sometimes called la Vallée de l'Homme —Valley of Man. This area of the Dordogne has nearly 150 prehistoric sites, 14 of which are registered UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Our friends approach Pont du Moustier on the Vézère river.

Our route passes by prehistoric sites including La Roque Saint-Christophe, Maison Forte de Reignac and La Madeleine. Along the way, enormous rock ledges and tiny waterfalls dot the edges of the winding river.

 

Pont de Tursac on the Vézère river

A small waterfall on the shore of the Vézère river

Brochures for canoeing and kayaking outlets along the Vézère can be found at tourism offices. Paddles, a waterproof container and life jackets are included in the cost. Not all canoes offer seats with backrests — a feature my husband insists we'll have on our next canoe trip. Choose from a selection of launch points depending on how long your want to be on the river; our 19-km trip took about five hours.

Village de La Madeleine on the Vézère river

If you aren't too tired after your trip down river, visit Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies. One of the most renown museums of prehistory, the architecturally stunning museum displays tools, art and artifacts from 400,000 BC to 10,000 BC.

An ancient ancestor greets visitors to Musée National
de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies.

The terrace of the Musée National de Préhistoire, as photographed on a 2012 visit

Canoeing in the land of châteaux

The "lazy hazy days" of summer don't get much better than this.

La Roque-Gageac as seen from the bow of a canoe

We wake up early, forego our (my) daily workout, rub on sunscreen, put on bathing suits, load the car with towels, snacks and wide-brimmed hats and head to the river.

One recent jour trop chaud we drive to Port d'Enveaux where we're taken by van upriver to just past La Roque-Gageac. We're the first departure of the day so before 10 a.m. we are on the Dordogne. After a bit of frustration trying to figure out who is supposed to be steering the canoe — bow or stern — we're on our way.

 

Canoeing along the Dordogne at La Roque-Gageac

Along our 14 km journey we pass by the village of La Roque-Gageac and châteaux Beynac, Castelnaud and Milandes, among others in the distance.

Castelnaud from a canoe on the Dordogne

The village and Château de Beynac from a canoe on the Dordogne

Aside from fellow river drifters, we spot some swans and lots of fish. We stop a couple of times for cool dips in the crystal-clear water. And really, before we know it, we're back at base camp. It's just starting to get hot and the gnats are starting to swarm around my face, so even though my heart says I could have stayed on the river another hour, my reddening shoulders tell me it's time to go home.

 

A garbarre tour out of Beynac on the Dordogne river

Swans on the Dordogne

If you go

There are lots of canoe and kayak rental places along your river of choice. Pick up brochures at your local tourism office. Call ahead for reservations. By the time we returned to base camp, the parking lot was full of cars. Also, we tried to reserve a canoe the last week of June and were told the river was too high and fast due to recent rains. Typically, you can choose from half- or full-day rentals, costing between 8 and 25 euros per person. Most places offer a snack bar at base camp, but bring along water and munchies for the "road." And don't forget the sunscreen.

A family canoes on the Dordogne river.