Salerno is delightful entrée to Italy

Parc Pinocchio is a family friendly green space in Salerno. 

After our voyage to Italy via Spain by train, ferry, train, a couple of nights in Rome, and another train, we are eager to hunker down in our Salerno apartment. We've arrive at dusk, and we manage find our way to the municipal elevator that brings us to the doorstep of the our temporary home. Salerno is a port city with much of its old town tucked along steep hills. We'll use that elevator a lot in the next two weeks, but we'll also climb countless steps through charming old passages each day.

A boat rests in the Gulf of Salerno.

A family shrine in Salerno honors departed loved ones.

It isn't hard to slide into our daily routine: cappuccinos and cornetti, shopping and sites, lunches at trottorie where we let the proprietors decide what we'll eat, nice naps, seaside strolls, light dinners (wine and nibbles) at our apartment, evening gelati, and sound sleep. 

A saintly statue watches over the waters of Salerno.

A Salerno fountain contains this cherubic detail.

This vibrant doorway is a colorful standout in Salerno.

Rounding a corner, we come upon this urban waterfall in Salerno.

There's no shortage of churches in Salerno, the most notable being its cathedral, built on the site of Roman ruins. With a modest, rather austere exterior, we are surprised to find its interior, particularly the tomb of San Matteo, to be quite beautiful and ornate.

This ornate crypt in honor of Saint Matthew (San Matteo) is located 
downstairs at Salerno's cathedral.

A well-preserved fresco adorns a wall at the cathedral in Salerno.

Our visit to Arechi Castle in Salerno is worth the hike.

One day we hike up Monte Bonadies to visit Arechi Castle. We skip the museum but enjoy our morning cappuccino and views on the terrace. 

Ken pauses a moment during our climb up Monte Bonadies to
Castello di Arechi in Salerno. 

The port city of Salerno is viewed from Castello di Arechi.

Pinocchio seems pleased with the park
named for him in Salerno.

Another day, we head to Parc Pinocchio, just because it sounds charming. As a park, it's fine, but I really like the mosaics and statue in honor of the park's namesake. 

The beach isn't crowded on this winter day in Amalfi.

Salerno is known as the gateway to the Amalfi Coast, so one day we take a bus along a very winding route to the town of Amalfi. Being here in the winter means we miss the crowds, but the legendary romantic reputation of this area isn't obvious. Compared with our former home in Sausalito, Amalfi seems nice, not outstanding, but very pleasant. I'm sure these coastal towns have an entirely different feel in the summertime.

The Duomo di Almalfi is dedicated to the Apostle Saint Andrew.

The Amalfi cathedral is a blend of Romanesque, Gothic,
Baroque, and Byzantine architectural styles.

I'm charmed by this miniature village in Amalfi.

This miniature village was set up in 1974 in the
Capa e Ciuccio fountain in Amalfi.

Here's an intriguing fountain in Amalfi.

The day's highlight is a delicious lunch on a terrace by the sea. Satiated and sleepy, we hop on the bus to go back to Salerno but end up on the wrong bus, which is heading in the other direction. We get off in Positano and look for the tabacccheria, the only shop that sells bus tickets, or so we're told. The shop is closed, so I ask a police officer what we should do since we don't have return bus tickets. She says she is pretty sure the bus driver will make an exception and let us pay on the bus. Back at the bus stop, we meet an American family who tell us they tried to pay on the previous bus and were denied. As we nervously await the next bus we prepare to be pushy and relentless. No need: This driver lets us pay onboard. 

Lemons bigger than your hand are grown along the Amalfi Coast.

Eventually we're back in Amalfi, and after an hour or so, we board the right bus to Salerno. Our earlier frustrations dissipate as we are treated to a gorgeous sunset over the Tyrrhenian Sea.