A little more Brittany

Parc du Thabor in Rennes is home to this pair of pretty birds.

In pursuit of some new scenery, hopefully filled with colorful autumn foliage, we head to Brittany for a few days. We choose the city of Rennes as our home base and decide to confine our exploration to this area. Brittany is big, and having just a few days here, we know that points further afield will need to wait until a subsequent trip. 

Paimpont Abbey was founded by the King of Brittany in 6th century

I'm eager to explore Forêt de Brocéliande, the legendary home to Merlin and King Arthur. We arrive in the village of Paimpont in time for lunch. After satisfying our tummies and an exploration of the village, we have only a few hours before the sun will set. Thus, we'll need to limit ourselves to just one of the six forest hikes recommended by the tourist office. We drive about 20 minutes to Tréhorenteuc and look for the unmarked path around Arbre d'Or. I'd love to say that we completed the loop, but we were chilly and tired and eager to check in to our Rennes lodging before dark. A more thorough visit to Forêt de Brocéliande will also have to wait until our next trip.

From Tréhorenteuc, we set out on a path in the ancient Forêt de Brocéliande.

The first resident of La Tour Duchesne in Rennes was responsible for
opening and closing the Mordelaise city gates in the 15th century.

Rennes's city hall is located in Place de la Mairie, which also
contains the city's opera house.

On Day 2, so we forego the car and take a short subway ride into downtown Rennes. I don't feel at ease in a new city until I have a paper map in my hand, but unfortunately the tourist office doesn't open until the afternoon. Instead we muddle through using GPS and an online map that is too tiny to be much help. 

With its charming buildings and plenty of places to eat, Rennes
is a great city in which to spend a day.

Golden heralders are perched atop the Parliament building in Rennes.

Overall, though, we manage to see a lot of historical sites. Rennes is the capital of Brittany and in addition to an impressive Hôtel de Ville, the Parlement de Bretagne is here. One has to have advance reservations to tour the Parliament, which is now the city's Palace of Justice. Reservations are only handled through the tourist office, so there's no way we can join a tour today. 

Parc du Thabor is at beautiful place to walk in Rennes.

Instead, we head to Parc du Thabor. This being late in the year, there aren't many flowers, but the foliage more than makes up for that. We come upon an aviary where, despite not being a bird person, we spend an enjoyable half-hour watching the shenanigans of the winged residents. The park has a fascinating history. In 1867 Thabor was inaugurated by a decree from Napoleon III who commanded that every large city in France have a public park. Originally, only men were allowed, then another part of the park was open only for women. Within its 10.3 acres, visitors can find rare trees, rose and botanical gardens, ponds, waterfalls, a carousel, a bandstand, as well as the aforementioned aviary. 

Nearly 2 kilometers of walls surround the citadel of Saint Malo. 

The following day, we head about an hour north to the Emerald Coast. Our first destination is the Pointe du Grouin on the headlands just north of the town of Cancale. We arrive only to find that the parking and all access to Pointe du Grouin are closed for safety improvements. It would have been nice if there had been signs alerting us to the closure as we passed by Cancale. Oh well, on to Saint-Malo.

Expect tourist prices as well as ambience in Saint-Malo restaurants.

We park near the tourist office, just outside the old city walls. Saint-Malo was nearly completely destroyed during the allied invasion of 1944, and most of the buildings have been meticulously reconstructed. The old city is easy to explore, but as it starts to rain, we decide to have lunch (an overpriced, but yummy salmon galette) instead of walking along the 2-km-long ramparts.

Saint-Vincent Cathedral of Saint-Malo was severely damaged during
World War II, and its reconstruction was completed nearly 30 years later.

The 15th-century clock tower, Tour de l'Horage
dominates the town center of Dinan. 

The rain has stopped by the time we get to Dinan, a charming medieval town. We spend our time here strolling about and admiring the buildings, particularly the old clock tower. The tourist office, located near the Dinan Château provides a handy walking-tour map for a few centimes. 

Originally built by the Duke of Brittany to dominate Dinan's residents,
the château became the town's major defense against invaders.  

Upon reflection, November is not a bad month to visit this part of Brittany. The weather is a bit iffy, but there aren't any crowds. I look forward to allowing more time on our next trip here to explore much more of beautiful, rugged Bretagne.

Even when the weather is gloomy, the charm of Dinan shines through.

Finding joy on an imperfect trip to Italy

Pisa is seen at dusk from a bridge across the Arno River. 

Too hot. Too many tourists. These are the two main reasons that I usually avoid traveling in the high season. Last February my husband and I enjoyed a delightful month in Italy. But the occasion of my brother coming from California to visit us for the first time meant that we three, (my brother, my sister, and I) headed to Italy in September, still very much prime tourism season. 

Many people have their dream city: the place they've always wanted to visit. For me, it was Paris. For my brother, it was Florence. Well, you win some and you lose some. 

Catching Covid is likely the main reason this trip doesn't live up to expectations. The throngs of tourists and scorching heat don't help much. However, before our symptoms appear, we manage to enjoy a few days in Pisa and Florence. Later, when my siblings are sheltering at our apartment and before I test positive, I am able to get out on my own and see some sites that I had missed during my trip last winter. Here, I'll share some highlights and try to keep the kvetching to a minimum.  

Leaning in to Pisa

The Tower in Pisa does, indeed, lean a bit.

Our first stop is Pisa, chosen because this is where Ryan Air flies to from Bordeaux. We arrive in the afternoon and after checking into our offbeat little hotel, we set off for Piazza del Duomo. In addition to the famed leaning tower, cathedral, baptistery, and tourist office, there are a half-zillion people here, all of them seemingly wanting to snap a photo that makes it look like they're holding the tower in their hand. 

The cathedral is closed to visitors this evening, but we are tipped off that if we return early tomorrow morning, we'll be able to go inside, as long as we are quiet and don't cause a ruckus during Sunday Mass.

All sorts of contortions are required in order to look as if
you're holding the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Pisa's Baptistery of Saint John was built
between 1152 and 1363. 

 Sunday morning is much calmer at Piazza del Duomo in Pisa.

The tiny Church of Santa Maria della Spina
sits on the bank of the Arno River in Pisa.

The exterior of the Church of Santa Maria della Spina
in Pisa contains some intriguing features.

American artist Keith Haring painted Tuttomondo, a popular
mural located in Pisa.

Sidestepping crowds in Florence

Piazzale Michelangelo offers this stunning view of Florence.

On our first evening in Florence, I suggest we walk to Piazzale Michelangelo. Last winter, my husband and enjoyed the uphill stroll here, and felt we were rewarded with amazing views across the city. This time, the plaza is packed with people jockeying for position to watch the sunset. Many of our outings for the week involve avoiding (and complaining about) crowds and seeking out less-popular sites. This goal is met with mixed results. We have Palazzo Vecchio, Santa Croce, and Museo Zeffirelli nearly to ourselves. Galleria dell'Accademia is a teeming mosh pit (although David lives up to its hype). 

The best treasures of Palazzo Vecchio in Florence can
be seen on the ceiling.

Judith and Holofernes by Donatello is located at
Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.

The tomb of Galileo Galilée is located at Santa Croce
in Florence. Among others interred here are Michelangeo
and Machiavelli.

You'll have to decide for yourself if a visit to David is
worth the mob at Galleria dell' Accademia in Florence.

I'm amazed at the prolificacy of artists Lorenzo Bartolini and
Luigi Pampaloni. This room at the Accademia gallery is
filled with their sculptures and plaster casts.

This costume, designed by Franco Zeffirelli for opera soprano
Maria Callas, is on display at Museo Zeffirelli in Florence.

Miniatures of opera sets designed by Franco Zeffirelli can be
found at the museum bearing his name in Florence. 

The wrong way to do Cinque Terre

The blue Italian Riviera draws crowds to Cinque Terre.

Despite its sparkling blue water, I'm disenchanted by Cinque Terre, a cluster of hillside villages along the Italian Riviera. We have opted for a guided tour here, which is not exactly guided. We're dropped at one village, allowed an hour or so to find a restroom and an overpriced coffee, then we're packed onto the train to the next village. Each village is chock full of tourists and souvenir shops. If you go — and I'm not saying you should — pack a picnic lunch and take a bus or train to Levanto. Then hike or ride the train to Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore (or you can do it the other way around). An affordable day pass is available for the Cinque Terre train. 

Most of the beaches in Cinque Terre are private. 

The water really sparkles in Cinque Terre.

Charmed in Tuscany

The beautiful Tuscan countryside is seen from San Gimignano. 

While my siblings convalesce, I take a bus tour to the Chianti area of Tuscany, about 90 minutes south of Florence. This tour is much more to my liking than the Cinque Terre trip earlier in the week. Our guide is informative and kind, and we have ample time to check out each place we stop. The first stop is the fortified castle/village of Monteriggioni. Then we're on to Siena, a city that really charms me. The tour also included a wine tasting at Poggio Ai Laghi, that is surprisingly interesting as well as tasty. The stop provides a welcomed break before we head to our last stop, San Gimignano.  

Monteriggioni is a small fortified castle built in the 13th century
by the Republic of Siena in order to defend its southern border
against Florence. 

The stunning white Duomo di Siena is one of Italy's
most illustrious Romanesque and Gothic cathedrals. 

Not another tourist is in sight during my visit to this
small church located on the edge of Il Campo plaza
in Siena. What a respite! 

I enjoy sampling the Chianti and accompaniments at
Poggio ai Laghi as part of my Tuscany tour.

This lavender shop in San Gimignano pops with color .

A cat deliberately ignores tourists like me in San Gimignano.

As I head back to the bus in San Gimignano for my return to Florence,
I savor one last look at the Tuscan countryside.

Teens help step up our summer

This summer, we hosted two special guests: The first was my almost 12-year-old great nephew who came from North Carolina to visit his grandparents in France. The second was a 14-year-old student from the outskirts of Paris, who stayed with us to improve his English skills. It's been nearly 20 years since our own sons were that age, so we were worried we'd be a little rusty. But, as it turned out, our time with les ados was surprisingly fun and really stepped up our summer.

It appears my great nephew enjoyed his visit to Lascaux IV.

I had only met my great nephew once when he was just a little guy. Now, at nearly 12, he's attached to his Nintendo Switch and cell phone, but can be enticed to turn off the screens for a little cultural exploration. 

I make a few wrong turns and come across a downed tree blocking the road on our way to Lascaux IV. Luckily we arrive just in time for my sister and her grandson's reserved English-language tour. Phew! 

Maison Forte de Reignac in the Périgord is an unusual
and fascinating look back through time.

After lunch in Montignac, we head to a site I had visited a few years ago, Maison Forte de Reignac. The cliff-side castle is even more impressive than I remembered. We all enjoy our stroll through the unusual château, whose history goes back 20,000 years and continues through the Middle Ages and beyond. Each room contains fascinating displays, although we aren't particularly interested in the torture exhibition at the end of our self-guided tour. 

Exhibits of every kind, from fossils to furnished rooms
are featured at Maison Forte de Reignac.

The views from Maison Forte de Reignac are different
from those usually found in North Carolina .

We rarely pass up the opportunity to introduce the sport
of Pickleball to anyone willing to play with us.

In July, our student from Paris arrives by train. He visited this part of France last summer, but we still manage to find a few new experiences to share with him. Naturally, we introduce him to Pickleball, a game he takes to very quickly. He and my husband return to the court a few times to give our guest the chance to win a match, which he eventually does. 

Without all the usual bells and whistles, this miniature
golf course has a countryside charm.

One afternoon we put away the lessons and head out for a game of miniature golf at Mini-Golf d'Eva, located in a rural setting near Sérignac-Péboudou. The display of farm equipment, rustic snack shack, and warm welcome signals this charming course doesn't contain the usual mini-golf kitch. Yeah, our visitor manages to beat us at mini-golf too.

Traditional gabarres are moored along the Dordogne in Bergerac.

Our guest told us about his love of playing escape games, so our day in Bergerac includes an adventure at Escapia. My husband and I would have been totally lost had it not been for our guest, who turns out to be quite the talented amateur sleuth. Despite just minimal help from the oldsters, we manage to successfully complete the mystery. Bravo us!

One can't visit Bergerac without saying salut to Cyrano.

A half-day on the river is the perfect summertime activity in these parts.

Another day, I stay home while the boys head to Limeuil for a day on the river where they rent a couple of kayaks. They return home alive and without a hint of sunburn, and my husband is only sore for the next two days. Our guest proclaims the adventure to be one of the highlights of his stay.

Gaudi and Dali are 'delightfully' featured at Les Bassins des Lumières
in Bordeaux.

Our most ambitious adventure with our guest is a trip to Bordeaux on the train. We have unintentionally picked the day the Tour de France is concluding a stage there, so the city is all decked out for the Tour. We arrive an hour before our reservation time at Les Bassins des Lumières, but are welcomed in early. The current exhibition features Dali and Gaudi, two artists perfectly suited for the amazing light show venue. After a quick nap in The Cube — well, I believe at least one of us fell asleep — we head back to the train station. 

It's tempting to join this fellow splashing about
in Miroir d'Eau in Bordeaux.

At lunchtime, we have Château de Duras practically to ourselves,
although a small crowd shows up for the musketeer and
falconry shows later in the afternoon.

As our student's visit winds down, we stay close to home for a visit to Château de Duras. It's been several years since my last visit, and I'm impressed with how well arranged the rooms are with good signage in both French and English. Medieval games are scattered about providing some fun diversions. Our guest is a fencer, so we plan our visit to include the musketeer show ("not very realistic, but fun") and stay for the falconry demonstration. Despite the hot weather, the seats on the back lawn are shady and there's a nice breeze. And of course, the birds are cool too.

The musketeer show at Château de Duras features
swords and brave damsels.

Not only are they handy with swords, the troupe at
Château de Duras knows how to handle the big birds.

As we've thoroughly explored the area in the 11 years we've lived here, my husband and I usually choose to stay at home in the summer. But this year, our young visitors have reminded us how much fun it can be to get out and explore, especially when we have the chance to re-discover sites through the eyes of teenagers. It's been good practice for when, in a few years, our own grandchildren come to visit. 

Want more information?

Lascaux IV: lascaux.fr/en
Maison Forte de Reinac: maison-forte-reignac.com/
Mini Golf d'Eva, Sérignac-Péboudou: 06.74.66.65.49
Escapia Escape Game, Bergerac: escapia.fr/bergerac
Canoës Limeuil: canoes-limeuil.fr/
Les Bassins des Lumières: bassins-lumieres.com/en
Château de Duras: chateau-de-duras.com/en/