Light opera and psychedelics

A Turkish digital design team created an abstract, mind-blowing
exhibition at Bassins des Lumières in Bordeaux.

At first, I'm confused. With only a glance at the brochure we were handed, we stumble into the pitch-black bowels of a converted submarine base in Bordeaux. Loud operatic music is playing and huge pictures are projected onto each wall around the massive water-filled basins. While I snap photos, Ken sits on the floor and wonders what this is all about. (We really should have read the brochure before entering.) It will take us some time to discover the scope of this place. 

Nineteenth-century Vienna is showcased at Bassins de 
Lumières in Bordeaux.

We're at Bassins de Lumières, Bordeaux's newest attraction, which opened in April in the midst of Covid confinement. This has been on my "must-see" list for a year, when its construction started being hyped. Despite the city being a virus hot spot, we don our masks, pack our hand-sanitizer, hold our breaths (figuratively), and take the train to Bordeaux to spend a rare day away.

It's a beautiful day in Bordeaux, and since we aren't inclined to ride the tram and bus from the train station, we've opted to walk to the Bassins, about an hour and 45 minutes if we hadn't taken a couple of wrong turns. Since it's so new, the signage isn't great, but with the help of a friendly fisherman, we find our way through the dockyards and arrive just five minutes late for our 11 a.m. reservation. 

Opera and lights combine for an amazing show at Bassins de 
Lumières in Bordeaux.

Bassins de Lumières, the largest digital arts center in the world, is one of three such expositions opened by the Culturespaces organization in the past few years, the others being in Paris and in South Korea. (Another notable digital art center is Carrières de Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence.) Bordeaux's is located in the city's former submarine base in the northern part of the city. 

Upon entering, visitors stand along the edges and bridges crossing the four large basins — les Grands Nénuphars — and experience a digital light show. Paintings of Gustav Klimt and other Viennese artists are showcased with a focus on Vienna at the end of the 19th century.  

In the third chamber of the Bassins — the mezzanine — the colorful abstract art of Paul Klee is presented along the walls, ceiling, and floor, accompanied by operatic music. There's a grandstand at one end of the room where the audience can sit and take it all in. The restrooms are located here too.

Waves appear to be washing away visitors inside Le Cube at
Bassins de Lumières in Bordeaux.

Finally, we enter Le Cube, a psychedelic tour de force created by a team of Turkish designers. Low, comfy beanbag chairs for two are located along the walls of the square room, and it's dark and wild and cool. We end up stretching out here for about a half-hour. (I think Ken may have even sneaked in une petite sieste in Le Cube.

An area explaining the art, a submarine museum, an educational area, and a gift shop round out the Bassins. There's also a food truck located outside in the parking lot. 

Inside Le Cube at Bassins de Lumières in Bordeaux, Ken
enjoys a virtual psychedelic trip. 

Bordeaux's Pont de Pierre leads to Place de Stalingrad
across the Garonne River.

Our first order of business after leaving the Bassins is, of course, lunch. We find the prices in the trendy Bord'eau Village waterfront restaurants a bit too high. Instead, we continue down the quay a few blocks and arrive at L'Evidence. With its outdoor tables and fixed-price menu, along with great food and excellent service, the small bistrot surpasses our expectations. 

In the remaining few hours before our return train, we slowly stroll through Bordeaux, avoiding people as best we can. I insist that we stop at one of my favorite French fountains located at Place des Quinconces. The day is long and hot, but we've truly enjoyed this brève escapade.

We have Bordeaux's quay nearly to ourselves on our recent visit. 

This bronze sculpture along the river in Bordeaux by the Haitian 

sculptor Filipo honors Marthe Adélaïde Modeste Testas, 

an African slave with an amazing story.

The Baroque-style Église Notre Dame in Bordeaux was built 

at the end of the 17th century.

Stars of David are included in the design of
this window in Bordeaux.

The fountain located in Place des Quinconces in Bordeaux
honors Girondin revolutionaries.

If you go:

Bassins de Lumières is located at the Base sous-marine, Impasse Brown de Colstoun in Bordeaux. Trams and buses stop nearby, or it's about a 7-kilometer walk from Gare Saint-Jean, or there's plenty of parking if you drive. Advance reservations are encouraged, especially on weekends and holidays. It's open every day, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (and until 7 p.m. on Fridays, Saturdays and during the high season). Allow about 90 minutes for your visit, or more if you fall asleep in Le Cube. Visit the website for more information and tickets. 

I'm all decked out for safety during our recent trip to Bordeaux.