Pretty and petites villages of the Massif Central

Najac's Forteresse Royale was built in the 12th to 13th centuries.

France's Aveyron department boasts having the most officially designated Plus Beaux Villages in the country, and our recent trip to the Massif Central includes a planned visit to one of them: Najac. We stop in Najac on our way to Rodez, where we'll base ourselves for a few days. A few days later we'll head to Laguiole, one of the Aubrac region's most notable village.

The Royal Fortress of Najac is our destination as we head down 
the village's charming main street.

Ken laughs when I tell him that we're going to walk up to
Najac's Forteresse Royale.

No one is doing much traveling these days, but we manage to sneak in a short vacation between rentrée (when children return to school) and confinement (known in the U.S. as lock-down or quarantine). The winding roads to Najac add about an hour to our road trip, but there's no doubt that the detour is worth it. We easily park in the village and after a stop at the Tourist Office, we head off to find lunch. We choose well, with both of us enjoying our lunch (salad for me, a burger for Ken) at L'Insolite, a small restaurant that could have been at home in laid-back Sausalito. 

My fresh salad at L'Insolite in Najac is scrumptious.

Najac's war monument stands in Place du Barry, 
known as Place du Faubourg 500 years ago.

Maison du Gouverneur was the residence of the Royal
Administration and wealthy merchants.

Our map is needed not so much for navigation, because there's only one road through the village, but it's useful as a guide to the local landmarks. The Maison du Gouveneur, for example, is a striking building, originally home to the Royal Administration, and subsequently of several noble merchant families.

This pretty garden wall catches my attention in Najac.

Located on a ridge and surrounded by forests, Najac was once a strategic outpost. Its 13th-century château was part of a network of royal fortresses built to defend the Rouergue province. At the time, Najac was the capital of this region. The castle's circular dungeon, is the tallest in France. From its terrace, there are beautiful views across the Aveyron. 

The mountains surrounding Najac are breaking out in fall colors.

Descending from the château, we come to Église Saint-Jean l'Evangeliste, a church built in the Languedoc-gothic style. Dominican inquisitors ordered villagers to help with its construction as retribution for their heresy. One of the church's walls is actually part of Najac's fortified walls.

Just beyond this stone gate in Najac is Quartier de la Pause,
an ancient rest area on a medieval (formerly Roman) road. 

Our stroll through Najac has taken us down, up, down, then up again to the top of the village where we find our car and continue our trip to Rodez. 

En route to Laguiole, we meet a stunning and quite polite herd
of cows on their way to another pasture.

Two days later, after visiting the wolves at Les Loups du Gévaudan park, we continue our drive in the Aubrac toward the village of Laguiole. Known for its knives and signature cheese, Laguiole is another important and beautiful village of this region. We park in a lot in the center of town, a plaza in which a large bronze bull stands. 

Ken poses next to the big bronze bull in Laguiole.

My advance research says that we mustn't miss a visit to one of the knife factories in Laguiole, but since it's lunchtime they are closed. We window shop for knives, which are, sadly, trop cher pour nous. Presidents of France have commissioned special knives to be forged for visiting dignitaries, including Barak Obama. 

One of Laguiole's many knife shops tempts us.

We don't choose wisely when selecting our restaurant today. Our lunch is merely OK, and Ken's main dish, some sort of local pork sausage specialty, is one of the most vile things I've ever tasted. The starter and dessert are yummy, though. After paying the bill, we head down the block to a fromagerie where we pick up a large chunk of Laguiole cheese and a container of aligot, the decadent cheese and potato dish that we'll enjoy at home next week.

The village of Laguiole is surrounded by pastures and mountains,
 that are enjoyed by skiers in the winter. 

Our afternoon walk takes us to the church yard of Saint Matthew, the high point in town where we enjoy a 360-degree view of the area, as well as a bird's eye view of the town's black granite buildings and slate roofs.

The slate rooftops of Laguiole are seen from the village's
churchyard.

As the afternoon wanes, we return to Rodez, a city that I will write about in my next Away to Live blog post.

Close encounters of the canine kind

My first encounter with wolves comes with gorgeous
views at Les Loups de Gévaudan park 

The legend of a mysterious creature that injured or killed about 100 people — mostly women and children — in the Gévaudan area of France in the 18th century continues to spark imaginations. Was the wolf-like creature really a wolf, or was it a werewolf, a hyena, an escaped lion, a wolf-dog hybrid, a prehistoric predator, or a man? Was it just one beast that brutally attacked or was it a pack of wild animals? The hunt for la Bête du Gévaudan inspired hysteria in France at the time. Hunters combed the forests in search of the wolf — or whatever it was. A group of eight children were said to have "taken on the beast" with sticks to ward off an attack and received rewards from the king for their bravery.

After a treat from a park guide, these wolves at Les Loups de
Gévaudan park head into the woods. 

More than 250 years later, visitors to this area, located in the heart of the Massif Central region, can enjoy, without fear, seeing more than 100 wolves in a beautiful outdoor sanctuary, Les Loups de Gévaudan. Like most children, I grew up with the stories of the "big bad wolves" who terrorized a little girl in a red hood and three little pigs. But this is my first chance to look into the eyes of these "beasts," who turn out to be — well, kind of cute. 

I wonder what this wolf is thinking at Les Loups de
Gévaudan park.

This wolf stands still allowing me to take a close-up of him
(or her) at Les Loups de Gévaudan park. Kind of cute, right?

The park is home to five species of wolves from Siberia, Mongolia, Canada, Poland, and the Arctic. Although they're behind fences, the wolves have about a dozen hectares of natural rolling land and forests upon which they can roam. Many of the wolves here were saved from poachers, most notably by the Brigette Bardot Foundation. Here, they are well-fed, cared for when sick or old, studied, and admired. And once in a while, some wolves start their families here. 

Visitors young and old have come to Les Loups de Gévaudan
park to check out the wolves on this brisk autumn morning.

On the morning of our visit, we join about a dozen other visitors, young and old, on a guided visit of the park. Since the tour is in French, we don't understand everything our guide says, but we're grateful we decided to join the tour instead of exploring the park on our own. Our guide carries a bucket of raw beef morsels, and along the way, the wolves come to greet her, giving us a chance to admire up close these members of the Canis Lupus (gray wolf) family.

The guide at Les Loups de Gévaudan park entices wolves out of
hiding while she shares her vast knowledge about these canines.

We walk along paved, sometimes steep, paths, on this beautiful autumn day. Signboards provide written info (in French and English) about wolves and warn us not to stick our fingers through the fences — not something I was tempted to do. Our leisurely pace allows time to admire the brilliant fall foliage views across the region. 

Mother Nature seems to have used her paintbrushes in order to
give us this beautiful autumn view.

In addition to the wolves, the park contains a rustic playground, a café, and a really nice gift shop. 

A child's visit to Les Loups de Gévaudan park may include 
running-off-steam-time at this quaint playground.

Want to know more?

The History website (English) has a fascinating and comprehensive account of the Beast of Gévaudan. 

Visit the Les Loups de Gévaudan website (French) for more wolf facts, a history of the park, and all the information one needs to plan a trip here.

In 1993, a fan of the beast legend opened Le Musée fantastique de la Bête du Gévaudan in Saugues, about 75 km from the wolf park. We didn't the go to the museum this time, but when we return in a few years, perhaps with our granddaughter, we'll check it out.

 A pack of wolves mingles at Les Loups de Gévaudan park.

Maps, diagrams, and wolf facts are located along the paths
of Les Loups de Gévaudan park.

Light opera and psychedelics

A Turkish digital design team created an abstract, mind-blowing
exhibition at Bassins des Lumières in Bordeaux.

At first, I'm confused. With only a glance at the brochure we were handed, we stumble into the pitch-black bowels of a converted submarine base in Bordeaux. Loud operatic music is playing and huge pictures are projected onto each wall around the massive water-filled basins. While I snap photos, Ken sits on the floor and wonders what this is all about. (We really should have read the brochure before entering.) It will take us some time to discover the scope of this place. 

Nineteenth-century Vienna is showcased at Bassins de 
Lumières in Bordeaux.

We're at Bassins de Lumières, Bordeaux's newest attraction, which opened in April in the midst of Covid confinement. This has been on my "must-see" list for a year, when its construction started being hyped. Despite the city being a virus hot spot, we don our masks, pack our hand-sanitizer, hold our breaths (figuratively), and take the train to Bordeaux to spend a rare day away.

It's a beautiful day in Bordeaux, and since we aren't inclined to ride the tram and bus from the train station, we've opted to walk to the Bassins, about an hour and 45 minutes if we hadn't taken a couple of wrong turns. Since it's so new, the signage isn't great, but with the help of a friendly fisherman, we find our way through the dockyards and arrive just five minutes late for our 11 a.m. reservation. 

Opera and lights combine for an amazing show at Bassins de 
Lumières in Bordeaux.

Bassins de Lumières, the largest digital arts center in the world, is one of three such expositions opened by the Culturespaces organization in the past few years, the others being in Paris and in South Korea. (Another notable digital art center is Carrières de Lumières in Les Baux-de-Provence.) Bordeaux's is located in the city's former submarine base in the northern part of the city. 

Upon entering, visitors stand along the edges and bridges crossing the four large basins — les Grands Nénuphars — and experience a digital light show. Paintings of Gustav Klimt and other Viennese artists are showcased with a focus on Vienna at the end of the 19th century.  

In the third chamber of the Bassins — the mezzanine — the colorful abstract art of Paul Klee is presented along the walls, ceiling, and floor, accompanied by operatic music. There's a grandstand at one end of the room where the audience can sit and take it all in. The restrooms are located here too.

Waves appear to be washing away visitors inside Le Cube at
Bassins de Lumières in Bordeaux.

Finally, we enter Le Cube, a psychedelic tour de force created by a team of Turkish designers. Low, comfy beanbag chairs for two are located along the walls of the square room, and it's dark and wild and cool. We end up stretching out here for about a half-hour. (I think Ken may have even sneaked in une petite sieste in Le Cube.

An area explaining the art, a submarine museum, an educational area, and a gift shop round out the Bassins. There's also a food truck located outside in the parking lot. 

Inside Le Cube at Bassins de Lumières in Bordeaux, Ken
enjoys a virtual psychedelic trip. 

Bordeaux's Pont de Pierre leads to Place de Stalingrad
across the Garonne River.

Our first order of business after leaving the Bassins is, of course, lunch. We find the prices in the trendy Bord'eau Village waterfront restaurants a bit too high. Instead, we continue down the quay a few blocks and arrive at L'Evidence. With its outdoor tables and fixed-price menu, along with great food and excellent service, the small bistrot surpasses our expectations. 

In the remaining few hours before our return train, we slowly stroll through Bordeaux, avoiding people as best we can. I insist that we stop at one of my favorite French fountains located at Place des Quinconces. The day is long and hot, but we've truly enjoyed this brève escapade.

We have Bordeaux's quay nearly to ourselves on our recent visit. 

This bronze sculpture along the river in Bordeaux by the Haitian 

sculptor Filipo honors Marthe Adélaïde Modeste Testas, 

an African slave with an amazing story.

The Baroque-style Église Notre Dame in Bordeaux was built 

at the end of the 17th century.

Stars of David are included in the design of
this window in Bordeaux.

The fountain located in Place des Quinconces in Bordeaux
honors Girondin revolutionaries.

If you go:

Bassins de Lumières is located at the Base sous-marine, Impasse Brown de Colstoun in Bordeaux. Trams and buses stop nearby, or it's about a 7-kilometer walk from Gare Saint-Jean, or there's plenty of parking if you drive. Advance reservations are encouraged, especially on weekends and holidays. It's open every day, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (and until 7 p.m. on Fridays, Saturdays and during the high season). Allow about 90 minutes for your visit, or more if you fall asleep in Le Cube. Visit the website for more information and tickets. 

I'm all decked out for safety during our recent trip to Bordeaux. 

Frankly, I like Germany

The medieval architecture of Frankfurt's Alstad neighborhood
is seen from the Iron Bridge.

Travel, my favorite thing to do, has nearly ground to a halt this year. COVID-19 hit the fan just as we returned from a month in Sicily, and many of our plans have been put aside for this year, at least. However, we did spend a week at a language school in Germany this summer. Englischhausen, a branch of the Diverbo English-language program in Spain for which we've volunteered twice, offers Germans the chance to improve their English skills, guided by a team of volunteers. The program in which we participated this year is in Laubach, Germany, about an hour from Frankfurt.

A paddle boarder and cyclists enjoy a Sunday morning along the 
Main River in Frankfurt.

Except for a quick jaunt to Kehl, a small city within walking distance of Strasbourg, France, this is our first trip to Germany. We travel to and from Frankfurt by train: Marmande, Paris (transferring stations there), then Frankfurt. Although I'm a little nervous about traveling, my concerns are unfounded. Everyone is wearing masks and keeping their distance. Except for a crowded subway ride across Paris and a 90-minute wait at Gare Montparnasse on the return trip, I feel pretty comfortable.

Frankfurt's skyline is a mixture of old and new.

'Love locks' are hung along Frankfurt's Iron Bridge, one of
the most famous pedestrian bridges in Germany.

Our train arrives in Frankfurt just before dinnertime, so after we check in to our hotel, we go in search of food. The desk clerk directs us to a street a couple of blocks away and we end up having a delicious Italian meal at an outside table. 

A bunch of bunnies graze on the lawn of the European Central
Bank headquarters in Frankfurt.

We don't have to meet the Englischhausen shuttle bus until noon the next day so we spend a beautiful morning exploring a bit of the city, choosing our walking route up one bank of the Main River and down the other. We're mystified by the amount of liter we see, particularly next to the trash cans along the river. A happier surprise: Frankfurt parks are populated by rabbits instead of squirrels. Who knew? 

We have no idea why litter is strewn around nearly every 
trashcan along the Main River in Frankfurt.

Our limited time here means that we won't explore any of the dozens of museums along the riverfront. If we come back, we'll invest in Frankfurt Museum Embankment cards allowing entry to 34 museums.

The Europe's Central Bank is located in Frankfurt. 
Its headquarters were completed in 2014.

From the street, we can peek inside Frankfurt's archaeological 
garden/museum.

For the next week, our home is a small countryside hotel in Laubach. Here, the 10 volunteers and 10 students talk, eat, perform, and talk some more. We are always amazed at how much the students, who start the week with a high level of English, improve their skills. It's exhausting for everyone, but we've made some good friends during these weeks. I have to admit: I've never actually known anyone who is German, so I ask plenty of questions about their customs, history, life styles and pop culture. A typical conversation might include: "So, what are German WWII movies like?" or "Who does the cooking in your family?" or "Is it inappropriate to compare Trump to Hitler?" (It isn't.) 

The castle Schloss Laubach was built in the 13th century.

One morning, we all walk to Laubach for a tour of the village and a fascinating history lesson. There's a castle and a huge private library here. If we had been able to enter the castle's Solms' library, we would have seen 120,000 books, but not the original Gutenberg Bible, which the town donated to another museum in exchange for new roofs of its historical buildings.

Solms Library in Laubach, Germany, contains one of Europe's 
largest private collection of books.

This colorful Baroque organ can be found in the Evangelical 
Lutheran Church in Laubach, Germany.

On another walk with a new friend who grew up in East Germany, we stroll through a forest in which people have buried the cremated remains of their loved ones. Discrete wooden plaques are placed on trees with the deceases' names and other vitals. It's a serene alternative to overcrowded cemeteries. Plus, in Germany, ashes must be either buried or scattered at sea — it's illegal to keep grandpa's ashes in an urn on the mantelpiece.

Frankfurt's Römerberg is an iconic medieval plaza.

Old Saint Nicholas Church in Frankfurt 
has 51 bells.

Hauptamt Verstanstelle is a municipal office building in the 

Römerberg section of Frankfurt.

Brockhaus Fountain is located on the Zeil pedestrian promenade 
in Frankfurt.

We have one more afternoon and evening in Frankfurt after our Englischhausen stint is done. We walk through the grand Römerberg plaza, and continue on in search of some authentic German cuisine. Fortunately, we stumble onto a street that is lined with food trucks. Here, Ken finds some liverwurst to take home, and we eat sausages sandwiches and wash them down with apfelwein (apple wine). 

Since we're avoiding crowds, we admire from afar this biergarten 
in Frankfurt.

I'd been disappointed with the desserts served at the inn in Laubach, so I'm on the lookout for a place where I can score something gooey and fattening. We can't find an open pastry shop. However, the Frankfurt train station as a bunch of them, so my sweet-tooth fix is finally satisfied with a chocolate-cheesecake morsel, which I savor on the train ride back to France.

Ken enjoys his first authentic Frankfurter accompanied by a
glass of apfelwein.