Drifting through the Valley of Man

The Vezere Valley from the river

Readers of this blog may notice I recently posted a story of a canoe trip on the Dordogne. Although similar, a day spent on the Vézère offers a somewhat different experience — trading medieval châteaux for prehistoric dwellings. As I paddle the 19-km route from Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère to the base camp at Les Eyzies de Tayac, I sense an uncanny connection to those who lived in caves high above the shores some 30,000 years ago.

A canoe trip on the Vézère river passes by high rocky
cliffs and large rock ledges.

The Vézère Valley is sometimes called la Vallée de l'Homme —Valley of Man. This area of the Dordogne has nearly 150 prehistoric sites, 14 of which are registered UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Our friends approach Pont du Moustier on the Vézère river.

Our route passes by prehistoric sites including La Roque Saint-Christophe, Maison Forte de Reignac and La Madeleine. Along the way, enormous rock ledges and tiny waterfalls dot the edges of the winding river.

 

Pont de Tursac on the Vézère river

A small waterfall on the shore of the Vézère river

Brochures for canoeing and kayaking outlets along the Vézère can be found at tourism offices. Paddles, a waterproof container and life jackets are included in the cost. Not all canoes offer seats with backrests — a feature my husband insists we'll have on our next canoe trip. Choose from a selection of launch points depending on how long your want to be on the river; our 19-km trip took about five hours.

Village de La Madeleine on the Vézère river

If you aren't too tired after your trip down river, visit Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies. One of the most renown museums of prehistory, the architecturally stunning museum displays tools, art and artifacts from 400,000 BC to 10,000 BC.

An ancient ancestor greets visitors to Musée National
de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies.

The terrace of the Musée National de Préhistoire, as photographed on a 2012 visit

Roquetaillade: Family home for a millennium

Roquetaillade is one of the most visited castles in the region.
It is located about an hour southeast of Bordeaux.

Roquetaillade has been owned by the same family for around a thousand years. This tidbit is what I will remember most from my recent tour of Château Roquetaillade, one of the most visited castles in the Bordeaux area.

Roquetaillade means “carved in rock.”

Roquetaillade’s original”fort” was built, probably by Emperor Charlemagne, on the site of prehistoric grottoes in the 8th century. By the Middle Ages, the expanded and improved fort had become an important fortified town and castle.

Roquetaillade was restored and enhanced by Viollet-le-Duc in the
19th century. The project took 15 years.

Century after century, Roquetaillade passed down through the generations. Family names changed a few times because of marriages. From the 10th century, the family names in turn were: Lamothe (500 years), Lansac (150 years), Labiorie (50 years), Mauvezin (50 years) and Baritault (200 years to present).

The Old Castle at Roquetaillade dates to the 11th century.

A combination of diplomacy, cleverness and timing saved Rocquetaillade from destruction during the Hundred Years’ War and the French Revolution. In 1864 the Mauvezin family commissioned architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc to restore and enhance the château. Viollet-le-Duc was the head of the Neo-Gothic movement in Europe. His most-famous projects in France include Notre Dame de Paris, Vezelay Abbey, Carcassone and Château de Pierrefonds. Of his work at Rocquetaillade, Viollet-le-Duc wrote, “… there are no civil servants on my back.” Hence, the architect, aided by his associate Edmond Duthoit, was free to put into practice all his theories, which were, at the time, being criticized in other parts of France and Europe.

There’s a goat in the moat! His name is William.

Today, visitors can enjoy an hour-long guided tour of the grounds, chapel and a half-dozen fully appointed and well-tended rooms, including a kitchen that is the castle’s only heated room and is still used used by the family. My favorite room is the Pink Room, which has a fireplace featuring a rat curled at the Virgin Mary’s feet (to protect residents from the plague) and a secret shout-out from Viollet-le-Duc to his Republican brethren in the form of bleu, blanc et rouge angel wings.

Part of the ramparts still stand at Roquetaillade.

No photos are allowed inside because Rocquetaillade is a private residence. If visiting in the afternoon, extend your visit to include the Metairie of Rocquetaillade, and get a taste of what it was like to live on a 19th-century farm.

Several of Château Roquetaillade’s original 130 arrow slits are seen
in this detail photograph.

Rocquetaillade is located 8.5 km south of Langon near the village of Mazères in the Gironde department. Admission is 9.50€ adults/ 6.50€ students and children. Admission to the Metairie (farm museum) is an additional 1.50€. Tours are in French with a printed English translation provided. English tours can be arranged in advance. In July and August, the château is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; in September, October and from Easter to June, the château opens at 2:30 p.m. daily; and from November until Easter, the château is open only on Sunday afternoons. The farm museum is open from 3-7 p.m. every day in July and August. Check the website here for hours, or call 05.56.76.14.16.

The Mauvezin coats of arms include a swan, a lion and cows.