Bordeaux's godchild: Saint-Macaire

A long, long time ago, the city of Saint-Macaire was known as the godchild of Bordeaux. But that was back in the Middle Ages, a time of prosperity for this agricultural market and warehouse center on the Garonne River. The town's history dates back even earlier to the fifth century when the traveling Greek monk Marcarius gave the area his name.

 

Along the remaining city walls in Saint-Macaire

The Wars of Religion took their toll on Saint-Maricus and adding insult to injury, the Garonne's banks shifted and no longer passed through the town. Saint-Macaire, as it had become known, had an economic revitalization in the 18th century, thanks to the stone industry. But the stone carvers were a little over-zealous. The castle and town walls were dismantled and the stones were sent to Bordeaux to be used in the construction of the Stone Bridge there. And too-deep quarries under the village threatened homes.

Ancient stone tablets in Saint-Macaire

The ancient city walls of Saint-Macaire

Saint-Macaire's decline continued until the 1980s when an effort was made to restore the medieval charm of the city. In recent decades, the city has enjoyed growth that comes along with a revitalized tourism industry.

Archway in Saint-Macaire

On our recent visit, we spend about two hours wandering around. Highlights include beautiful murals in L'église Saint-Saviour and a leisurely walk along the ramparts overlooking a large green park. The city offers several interesting restaurants and contains all the usual amenities. The tourism office was closed for lunch during our visit, which was unfortunate because I would have loved to have a map. (Why can't all tourism offices offer maps on outside racks?)

Murals on the ceiling of Église Saint-Savieur in Saint-Macaire

Rounded doorways in Saint-Macaire

Water pump in Saint-Macaire

Saint-Macaire is located in the Entre-deux-mers region of the Gironde department, 4 km northeast of Langon and 52 km southeast of Bordeaux. Combine your trip with a stops in Cadillac (13.5 km) and La Reole (16.5 km) for a full day of touring.

Shop window in Saint-Macaire

Time out in Honfleur

Honfleur's Vieux Basin

Much of our visit to Normandy has been about history. We have walked in the footsteps of William the Conqueror and in those of the courageous soldiers who landed here on D-Day. But this sunny spring day isn't about history. Instead we taking some time out to visit the beautiful port of Honfleur.

View of Pont de Normandie from Honfleur. With a central span of 856 meters,
this is the largest cable-stayed bridge in Europe.

Nestled in the Seine estuary valley along France's Côte Fleurie (Flowery Coast), Honfleur's history is inexorably linked with fishing, maritime trade, tourism and with painting. The light here inspired painters Gustave Courbet, Eugène Boudin, Johan Jongking and Claude Monet to form the école de Honfleur, an important precursor to Impressionism.

Sign in Honfleur

Flags flying in Honfleur

Whimsical window in Honfleur

Honfleur's Maritime Museum

Rue de la Prison in Honfleur

The old salt warehouses in Honfleur are now used for exhibitions and other gatherings. Also notable are two of Honfleur's churches. Sainte-Catherine's was built by shipwrights and is France's largest wooden church with a separate bell tower. And a hike up to the Côte de Grâce rewards us with a visit to Notre-Dame de Grâce, a lovely chapel built in the 17th century.

Église Sainte-Catherine in Honfleur, along with its separate bell tower,
is France's largest wooden church.

Interior Église Sainte-Catherine in Honfleur

A house along Charrière de Grâce in Honfleur

Notre-Dame de Grâce in Honfleur was founded by Richard II
and is one of the region's oldest sanctuary chapels.

Bells at Chapelle Notre-Dame de Grâce in Honfleur

Stained-glass window inside Chapelle Notre-Dame
de Grâce in Honfleur

Outside chapel at Notre-Dame de Grâce in Honfleur

Architectural detail on the outdoor chapel at
Chapelle Notre-Dame de Grâce in Honfleur

Mossy rooftop on a house along Mont-Joli in Honfleur

In recent years, Honfleur has particularly focused on being an environmental leader. A plant and wildlife conservation area has been created along the city's sea walls and beaches, and the largest tropical butterfly house in France is here. The city also has its share of beautiful parks, and everything seems to be in bloom on the day of our visit.

Jardin Retrouvé in Honfleur

Flower-covered gazebo in Honfleur

Fountain in Honfleur

Marin always has a piece of my heart.

A tale of two cities: Caen and Bayeux

Skyline of Caen

On our recent trip to Normandy, visits to two cities provide a chance to compare the devastation incurred during WWII's Battle of Normandy.

Caen

The city of Caen suffered a great deal of damage during the war. Originally slated to be the first city liberated, Allied troops were delayed for a month. In early July 1944, intense bombing resulted in 2,000 French civilian casualties, the destruction of 70 percent of the city and finally (after a second month of fighting) its liberation. Today Caen houses the Peace Memorial (Caen-Normandie Mémorial Cité de L'Historire pour la Paix) an unmissable stop for those visiting WWII sites.

Caen-Normandie Mémorial Cité de L'Historire pour la Paix

Caen's most famous historical figure was William the Conqueror and it is here that visitors can find his three great works: the Abbaye aux Hommes, the Abbaye aux Dames and the Château de Caen. 

Castle of William the Conqueror in Caen

Abbaye aux Hommes in Caen is William the Conqueror's last resting place,
although his tomb was destroyed in the 16th century.

"L'étudiant" bronze by A.E. Le Tual ("De Laheudrie") 
outside Caen's Musée des Beaux-arts

Exploring the neighborhoods of Caen, Normandy's third-largest city, we note the contrast between the old, which is remarkably still standing, and the new. 

New and old buildings in downtown Caen

Bayeux

Bayeux was the first French city to be liberated the day after the D-Day landings and for a brief time was the capital of Free France. Germans fled the city on June 6, 1944, and local Resistants managed to tell the Allied armies and thus save Bayeux from being bombed. For the duration of the Battle of Normandy, Bayeux became an important center for deployment, refugee services and medical treatment.

Fountain in Place Chares De Gaulle in Bayeux. It was here that the
general spoke a week after the D-Day invasions.

Bayeux's origins date back to the first century when it was founded as a Gallo-Roman settlement. Despite centuries of pillaging, the city maintains a Middle Ages charm. It's a surprisingly compact city filled with lovely churches, squares and medieval houses. Adding to the scenery is the pretty Aure River which bisects the town.

Buildings along the Aure River in Bayeux

Detail of arch along Rue Saint-Martin in Bayeux

The city's most popular attraction is la tapisserie de Bayeux — the Norman tapestry. Although not a tapestry per se, this 70-meter-long embroidered cloth from the 11th century has been called one of the first comic strips in history. With more than 600 characters, 200 horses and hundreds of animals, the tapestry depicts the story of the conquest of England in 1066 by William the Conqueror. No photos are allowed in the Bayeux Museum which houses the tapestry, but I can offer my own impressions. Although visitors are directed to shuffle past the tapestry along with a continuous line of visitors, it would preferable to watch the museum's short film first. The film tells the story of William and of how the tapestry came to be. Another gallery at the museum delves even deeper into the period and contains some amazing miniature villages.

Bayeux is an ideal rest stop during our visits to the D-Day sites and along the trail of William the Conqueror. 

Cathedral Notre Dame de Bayeux

Really big red door to the Bayeux cathedral

Choir practice inside the Bayeux Cathedral

Amateur paparazzi descend upon a vintage car carrying a bride
at the Bayeux Cathedral.

Grand Hôtel D'Argouges in Bayeux

Detail on the Grand Hôtel D'Argouges in Bayeux

France's tiniest town: Castelmoron-d'Albret

Ceramic pots hang on the outside of a house in Castelmoron-d'Albret.

Castelmoron-d'Albret may be the smallest commune in France (in area) but it doesn't feel that way. Brimming with charm and housing a thriving artisans' workshop, the village is a worthy stop if you're in the neighborhood. That neighborhood is in the Entre Deux Mers area of the Gironde department, about 20 minutes west of Duras and 15 minutes north of La Reole.

One of about 50 pretty residences in Castelmoron-d'Albret

According to the village's website, Castelmoron-d'Albret is 3.54 hectares — about the size of Place Charles de Gaulle in Paris. Just 55 castelmoronais and castelmoronaise live here full time, according to 2008 population data.

Covered market square in Castelmoron-d'Albret

As its name implies, the village was closely tied with the House of Albret, which acquired the town in 1330 and kept it for more than three centuries. Castelmoron remained the capital of the duchy of Albret until the French Revolution. King Charles X and the Dauphin of France stopped by in 1828. Until the middle of the 20th century, Castelmoron was a bustling center for the surrounding towns.

 

This door marks what may have been the entrance to a cinema
in Castelmoron-d'Albret

Another pretty door in Castelmoron-d'Albret

... and another

Despite an economic decline, archaeological and historical interest in the town has kept it alive. Scenes from a couple of movies were filmed here, and pretty streets, squares and stairways attract visitors all year round.

The view below from above in Castelmoron-d'Albret

Stained-glass window on the church in Castelmoron-d'Albret

And of course, there's les poteries. In addition to the shop and adjoining tea garden, artisans offer a variety of workshops by appointment for groups and individuals. For information, call 05.56.61.49.42 or email poteriedalbret@orange.fr.

Pottery shop and artisans' workshop in Castelmoron-d'Albret

Entrance to the tea garden adjacent to the pottery shop
in Castelmoron-d'Albret

Tea garden in Castelmoron-d'Albret

Pottery fans won't want to miss the 16th annual Marché de Potiers on June 19, 2016. More than 25 potters will be on hand to display and sell their wares. Demonstrations, food and music also will be part of the event which runs from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

A potter works upstairs at the Castelmoron-d'Albret pottery shop.

If hiking is more to your liking, two scenic hiking trails commence in Castelmoron-d'Albret. Information can be found on the village website.

Signs in Castelmoron-d'Albret point the way to various
hiking paths and bike routes.

In addition to the tea garden, Chez Pierre is a small café/brocante that is open in the summer. Another dining option: Sauveterre-de-Guyenne (which I recently wrote about here) has an array of restaurants, and it's just 10 minutes away.

Chez Pierre café and brocante in Castelmoron-d'Albret

One last note: Thanks to mon amie americaine Donna who owns the cozy Clocktower Cottage gite in Duras for suggesting that I visit Castelmoron-d'Albret.