A capital idea: Time in Agen

Pont Canal spans the Garonne river in Agen. This water bridge, part of
the Channel of the Two Seas, has 23 arches and is the second longest
channel-bridge in France.

Each year, we make our annual pilgrimage to Agen, the capital of the Lot-et-Garonne, to apply for our visa renewal. The process gets simpler each year; the people at the bureau des étrangers are so nice and seem to remember us from year-to-year. This time, nous profitons de l'ensolleillment and explore the city before meeting some friends for an Indian lunch.

Agen (pop. 34,000) has its origin in pre-Roman times when the people living there, the Nitiobroges, called their home Aginnum. Several invasions ensued, and starting in the 11th century, Agen fell under the reign of the Dukedom of Aquitaine. The region then spent 300 years going back and forth between French and English control. The city was swept up in accusations of heresey and stake-burning; the last Cathar bishop was one notable victim.

 

Mosaïque Gallo-Roman in Agen

Agen's most famous resident was Nostradamus, who moved there in 1531 to practice medicine. During the Wars of Religion, Agen was a loyal Catholic stronghold. Beginning in the late 1600s, Agen prospers because of its location on the Garonne river and the Canal du Midi.

Much of Agen's prosperity is found in prunes; sailors crossing back and forth between Europe and the New World ate the dried plums to avoid scruvy. Pruneau d'Agen eventually became the city's emblem and remains an important commodity in this rural city.

The house that prunes built

Arcade in Corniïres neighborhood, once Agen's commercial center and
still bustling with shops and restaurants

Today, Agen has more than 30 historical buildings and monuments. Musée des Beaux Arts is a complex of four former 15th- and 16th-century mansions. Next door is Théâtre Doucourneau, a beautiful stone building. And Agen's Hôtel de Ville is located just across Place du Esquirol.

Musée des Beaux Arts in Agen

Théâtre Doucourneau in Agen

Detail on Théâtre Doucourneau in Agen

Entering just about every church we come upon is nearly obligatory — and good luck, according to ma belle-mère. I am stunned, however, by the beautiful, colorful interior of Saint Caprais Cathedral. Major restoration has been done on the church, which was built in the 11th and 12th centuries.

Saint Caprais Cathedral in Agen

Architectural detail on the exterior of Saint Caprais Cathedral

Once an island in the Garonne, the Gravier was already an esplanade in the Middle Ages. Countless parades, fairs and markets have taken place here, as well as courtships, sports and duels. The Gravier is always our first and last stop when we go to Agen — it offers the best free parking in town.

Passerelle, a chain suspension footbridge over the
Garonne river in Agen

The Gravier esplanade along the Garonne in Agen

Skateboard park in Agen's Gravier area

Delightful surprises seem to pop out of nowhere in Agen. I am quite fond of the tilework on the building that houses Galleries Lafayette. And I'm a sucker for city gardens, so our morning in Agen, passing the time before lunch, goes by quickly and leaves more to explore next time we're here.

 

Architectural detail on Galleries Lafayette in Agen

Water feature at les jardins de Tanneries

Corner building at Place des Laitiers in Agen

Inside Agen's covered marketplace

Jasmin Placehonors Jacques Jasmin (née Boé), an Occitan
poet born in Agen.

Agen's train station

A note on Agen history: I gleaned much information for this post from the helpful SOUTHWESTstory website.