Bonaguil: The last château

In the past two-and-a-half years since I have been in France, I have visited more than a dozen châteaux. I’m kind of a château fan. I like the ones that are filled with rooms with elegant furnishings. And I like the ones that are not much more than a pile of rocks. With my recent visit to Bonaguil, however, I may have found mon château préferé.

Château de Bonaguil

The beautiful weather may partially account for my “château crush.” The sky is a brilliant shade of blue and the autumn colors are just starting to make their appearance.

Another plus: This morning we are the only visitors, so we have the house to ourselves.

Bonaguil is called the last castle. I can’t find verification of this, but it certainly is one of the last of the great fortresses to be constructed in France.

Château de Bonaguil

 

Its name is derived from the words bonne aiguille (good needle), given to the fortress because of its location on a rocky cliff above the Thèze and the Lémance rivers. The rivers provided a true luxury to those living and working at the château: fresh water.

Château de Bonaguil

During the 100 Year War, Bonaguil was an English stronghold, during which it was severely damaged. In the late 15th/early 16th century, Berenger de Roquefeuil devoted three decades to fortifying and improving Bonaguil, equiping it with “a barbican, several towers, a chicane, seven drawbridges, a casemate, cannon ports, and a caponiere with loopholes which provided a more incisive defence than the moats,” according to the visitor’s guide. Roquefeuil’s timing was not good, as such fortresses had outlived their usefulness and many across the country were becoming places to live, rather than fight.

Château de Bonaguil

Château de Bonaguil

Château de Bonaguil

In the 18th century, Bonaguil underwent another transformation, this time by Marguerite de Fumel, who added an esplanade here, removed drawbridges there, and updated the “lord’s apartments.” Fumel died just before the French Revolution and alas, the château towers were leveled and the place was ransacked. 

The terrace at Château de Bonaguil

Entrance to one of the towers at Château de Bonaguil

A century later, in 1860, the town of Fumel acquired the castle and it became a national monument. Today, Fumel continues its responsibility and, according to the visitor’s guide, spares no effort or expense in keeping Bonaguil open to the public.

Château de Bonaguil

Château de Bonaguil

Bonaguil is open only during school holidays in November through February. Summertime visitors can enjoy fireworks display and theatrical presentations. For more information, visit Bonaguil’s website.

A Château de Bonaguil resident