Away to live: October 2023

Pisa is seen at dusk from a bridge across the Arno River.

Too hot. Too many tourists. These are the two main reasons that I usually avoid traveling in the high season. Last February my husband and I enjoyed a delightful month in Italy. But the occasion of my brother coming from California to visit us for the first time meant that we three, (my brother, my sister, and I) headed to Italy in September, still very much prime tourism season.

Many people have their dream city: the place they've always wanted to visit. For me, it was Paris. For my brother, it was Florence. Well, you win some and you lose some.

Catching Covid is likely the main reason this trip doesn't live up to expectations. The throngs of tourists and scorching heat don't help much. However, before our symptoms appear, we manage to enjoy a few days in Pisa and Florence. Later, when my siblings are sheltering at our apartment and before I test positive, I am able to get out on my own and see some sites that I had missed during my trip last winter. Here, I'll share some highlights and try to keep the kvetching to a minimum.

Leaning in to Pisa

The Tower in Pisa does, indeed, lean a bit.

Our first stop is Pisa, chosen because this is where Ryan Air flies to from Bordeaux. We arrive in the afternoon and after checking into our offbeat little hotel, we set off for Piazza del Duomo. In addition to the famed leaning tower, cathedral, baptistery, and tourist office, there are a half-zillion people here, all of them seemingly wanting to snap a photo that makes it look like they're holding the tower in their hand.

The cathedral is closed to visitors this evening, but we are tipped off that if we return early tomorrow morning, we'll be able to go inside, as long as we are quiet and don't cause a ruckus during Sunday Mass.

All sorts of contortions are required in order to look as if
you're holding the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Pisa's Baptistery of Saint John was built
between 1152 and 1363.

Sunday morning is much calmer at Piazza del Duomo in Pisa.

The tiny Church of Santa Maria della Spina
sits on the bank of the Arno River in Pisa.

The exterior of the Church of Santa Maria della Spina
in Pisa contains some intriguing features.

American artist Keith Haring painted Tuttomondo, a popular
mural located in Pisa.

Sidestepping crowds in Florence

Piazzale Michelangelo offers this stunning view of Florence.

On our first evening in Florence, I suggest we walk to Piazzale Michelangelo. Last winter, my husband and enjoyed the uphill stroll here, and felt we were rewarded with amazing views across the city. This time, the plaza is packed with people jockeying for position to watch the sunset. Many of our outings for the week involve avoiding (and complaining about) crowds and seeking out less-popular sites. This goal is met with mixed results. We have Palazzo Vecchio, Santa Croce, and Museo Zeffirelli nearly to ourselves. Galleria dell'Accademia is a teeming mosh pit (although David lives up to its hype).

The best treasures of Palazzo Vecchio in Florence can
be seen on the ceiling.

Judith and Holofernes by Donatello is located at
Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.

The tomb of Galileo Galilée is located at Santa Croce
in Florence. Among others interred here are Michelangeo
and Machiavelli.

You'll have to decide for yourself if a visit to David is
worth the mob at Galleria dell' Accademia in Florence.

I'm amazed at the prolificacy of artists Lorenzo Bartolini and
Luigi Pampaloni. This room at the Accademia gallery is
filled with their sculptures and plaster casts.

This costume, designed by Franco Zeffirelli for opera soprano
Maria Callas, is on display at Museo Zeffirelli in Florence.

Miniatures of opera sets designed by Franco Zeffirelli can be
found at the museum bearing his name in Florence.

The wrong way to do Cinque Terre

The blue Italian Riviera draws crowds to Cinque Terre.

Despite its sparkling blue water, I'm disenchanted by Cinque Terre, a cluster of hillside villages along the Italian Riviera. We have opted for a guided tour here, which is not exactly guided. We're dropped at one village, allowed an hour or so to find a restroom and an overpriced coffee, then we're packed onto the train to the next village. Each village is chock full of tourists and souvenir shops. If you go — and I'm not saying you should — pack a picnic lunch and take a bus or train to Levanto. Then hike or ride the train to Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore (or you can do it the other way around). An affordable day pass is available for the Cinque Terre train.

Most of the beaches in Cinque Terre are private.

The water really sparkles in Cinque Terre.

Charmed in Tuscany

The beautiful Tuscan countryside is seen from San Gimignano.

While my siblings convalesce, I take a bus tour to the Chianti area of Tuscany, about 90 minutes south of Florence. This tour is much more to my liking than the Cinque Terre trip earlier in the week. Our guide is informative and kind, and we have ample time to check out each place we stop. The first stop is the fortified castle/village of Monteriggioni. Then we're on to Siena, a city that really charms me. The tour also included a wine tasting at Poggio Ai Laghi, that is surprisingly interesting as well as tasty. The stop provides a welcomed break before we head to our last stop, San Gimignano.