Lisboa's treasured tiles

Tiles at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

Everywhere we look we see tiles. Just when I come to believe that Sevilla and Córdoba have the tile market cornered, we arrive in Portugal. Entire buildings on every block are covered with colorful tiles. Tiles can be found in churches, restaurants, embedded in park benches and wrapped around drain pipes.

Tiles at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

If I were in the market, I could buy colorful tiles in flea markets, cheap souvenir shops or fancy décor shops. Since we prefer to spend our money on experiences rather than stuff — goodness knows, we have more than enough stuff — tiled trivets don't tempt. But we are curious about the history and artistry of the ubiquitous azulejo.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

After a week of intensive study and field experience, I have become a bit more confident on navigating Lisboa's transit system. (As I mentioned in a previous post, there are no printed bus maps and since we don't have a smart phone, we must carefully plan our routes before we leave the apartment each day). Today, I have a compiled a complex itinerary involving bus, train and metro voyages, but our first destination will be easy:  We board a bus that runs right down our street and take it to the end of its line — Madre de Deus. We have arrived at the Museu Nacional do Azulejo.

Tiles at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

Inside Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

Tiles at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

The museum, nicknamed MNAz (which is easier to pronounce than the word azulejo), is located in an ancient convent, founded in 1509 by Queen D. Leonor. The exhibition focuses on the history of Portuguese tiles from the 16th century to the present. The museum also contains pieces from other regions of the world and includes informative exhibits on tile-making.

Figurine at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

Tiles at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

We wind our way upward through the monastery around a central courtyard. Midway, we visit the beautiful church, choir and chapels adorned in gold and, of course, tiles. More to my taste is the contemporary tile art on the upper floors.

Interior detail of the church at Museu Nacional do
Azulejo in Lisboa

Interior of the church at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

Contemporary tiles display at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

The top floor of the museum houses a large tiled panorama of Lisboa, and we have fun identifying places we've seen.

City panorama at Museu Nacional do Azulejo in Lisboa

For more information about Museu Nacional do Azulejo, visit the museum website here.