Cross over to Sevilla's Triana district

The tower at the end of Puente Isabella II in Triana

Just across the Guadalquivir river from Seville (or Sevilla) lies Triana. This lively district has a personality and history distinct from its more famous neighbor. Although technically part of Sevilla, residents have long proclaimed Triana to be a republica independiente.

Statue atop a message board in Triana

Triana is a charming area with few tourists and known for tapas, flamenco and tiles. Our visit is a daytime one — quiet and low-key — so I can only trust that the district's reputation as a vibrant nighttime hot spot is true. 

Our visit starts when we cross Puente Isabella II (or Puente de Triana) and pop into the local market, which is built on the site of the prison Castillo San Jorge, former headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition. Just around the corner is a museum focusing on this sinister period. 

Fresh pheasants in Triana's food market

Triana was headquarters for the Spanish Inquistion.

The day is much too pretty to spend time contemplating "accusation, enquiry, detention, hearing, torture, sentence and auto da fé," so we instead check out some of Triana's colorful tile workshops. The manufacture of tiles —  azulejos —  dates back to Roman times. We'll see a lot of tiles on this trip to Spain and Portugal, and I'll eventually come to notice the regional differences. Here I buy my first souvenir, a colorful ceramic egg holder.

Seville's famous tiles were made in Triana using local mud.

Here's the ceramic egg holder I bought in Triana.

We wander down narrow cobbled streets, pop into some pretty churches and have a light lunch that includes a bowl of salmorejo, the cold creamy tomato soup on which I have recently developed a huge crush.  

Interior Nuestra Señora de la O in Triana

Interior Capilla de la Estrella in Triana

Exterior Iglesia Señora Santa Ana in Triana

A plaza just before lunchtime in Triana

Later that afternoon we watch a vigorous padel ball match and stroll along Calle Betis, the riverside walk. From here we have a gorgeous view of Sevilla's Torre del Oro.

Padel court in Triana

Oranges in Triana

Sevilla's Torre de Ora as seen from Triana

For more information about Triana, visit andalucia.com.