Surprisingly strollable Madrid

This whimsical fountain is on the Paseo del Prado in Madrid.

Our recent trip to Madrid comes at the end of our February journey to the Iberian Peninsula. We're staying in an apartment about 45 minutes from the city center (via subway), so we know we'll have two full days to explore Spain's capital with no midday siesta back at the apartment. We'll need to pace ourselves for sure.

We cross paths with this black cat in Madrid's Plaza del Callao.

We've booked a walking tour for our first morning, so we head to Plaza del Callao to meet our group. Unfortunately, the group turns out to be a small mob, which despite being divided in two, is still too large for an effective, intimate tour. Our guide is young and inexperienced, and spends much of the morning giggling, then trying to shout loud enough for everyone to hear her after the battery in her microphone dies. (What, no spare?) But the tour gives us a "lay of the land" and the confidence that we won't get lost as we set out on our own.

This statue of Queen Isabel II stands in front of the Opera of Madrid.

Political demonstrators gather in a flowery Madrid plaza. 

The facade of Madrid's Teatro Reina Victoria includes mosaics from Talavera. 

The terrace of Madrid's Royal Palace provides a view across the Manzanares
River and beyond.  

Our first visit to Madrid several years ago had centered around the International Pickleball Tournament, so we had spent most of our time in the Retiro Park area (here's that link). This time I had planned to visit Museo del Prado, but the weather is too nice to spend the day indoors. Instead we decide to visit the Royal Palace where we are relieved to see that the long, long line to get in that we saw in the morning, has vanished.

A statute of Charles III wearing a Roman toga stands at the top of the
Grand Staircase in Madrid's Palacio Real.

Although Spain's royal family doesn't live at the Palacio Real, it is the official residence and is used for official ceremonies. The palace's design was inspired by the Louvre. It has more than 3,000 rooms, but strangely only three-and-a-half baths. (Just kidding!) We are free to tour at our own pace, but except for the first couple of rooms, photography is not allowed. That rule however, doesn't deter some oblivious (or entitled) visitors.

We also visit the royal palace gardens, Jardines de Sabatini, which are in their lackluster winter stage, but still impressive.

Jardines de Sabatini are Madrid's royal gardens.

Statues of past 44 Spanish monarchs stand in Madrid's Plaza de Oriente.

In the evening we find our way to the Salamanca neighborhood where we meet a dear friend for an early (?) dinner at 8. (We never can get used to eating so late in Spain.)

This storefront seems to tell a story in Madrid.

We hit the city early on Sunday morning and go to the massive El Rasto flea market. We think that maybe everyone in the world is here. (Were you there? Did you see us?) It's too crowded to actually shop, and taking my camera out of my purse which is clutched tightly against my armpit, is out of the question. After a few blocks we vámonos to a less crowded part of town.

The Prado Museum will have to wait until our next visit
to Madrid.

Eventually we find ourselves at the Paseo del Prado, where we are delighted by a dance party in the middle of the road. I don't know if this is a spontaneous event or if it happens here every Sunday, but it's so much fun to watch. Perhaps next time, we'll join in.

We come upon a Sunday morning dance party along the Paseo del Prado in Madrid.

Our walk through Madrid ends at Plaza de España where I snap a last few photos of the Monumento Cervantes, featuring the author's most well-known characters Don Quixote and Sancho Panza.

The fountain of Cervantes in Madrid was commissioned in 1915 to
commemorate the 300th anniversary of the publication of Don Quixote.

We say adios to Don Quixote and Sancho Panza on our last day in Madrid.

We return to our suburban retreat, tired and yes, a little cranky. Nothing a bit of dinner and a good night's sleep can't cure. Tomorrow we head north to France. How we love to travel, but how much more we love chez nous!

Madrid popurrí

Iglesia de los Jeronimos

One of the many benefits of having Ken's mom visit: Her participation in an international Pickle Ball tournament provides the perfect excuse to visit Madrid. Here are some miscellaneous memories of another one of our favorite Spanish cities.

Almost there: Madrid's skyline from the car

Broadcast tower in Madrid

Prado Museum Cason del Buen Retiro building

The Fuente de Neptuno in the Plaza de Canovas del Castillo in Madrid

A welcoming sign on Madrid's city hall.Although it looks old and flashy,
the Palacio de Comunicaciones was built in the 20th century.
Originally a post office, it became the seat of city mayor in 2007.
Notice the welcome sign.

Ken always likes to help tidy up.

Getting chummy with Charlie at Plaza Mayor

Optical illusion mural betwtween two buildings in Madrid

Inside the Reina Sofia museum

Arlene and Ken at Casa Benigna, where we had an amazing
lunch. If you go, make a reservation, then knock on the door
when you arrive. And give our regards to Norberto.

Patella at Casa Benigna in Madrid

La Violetera by sculptor Santiago de Santiago
in Parque de las Vistillas

Fountain in Parque de las Vistillas

Pope John Paul II statue at Catedral de La Almudena

Outside the gates of Palacio Real de Madrid

We enjoy an unexpected concert at Palacio Real de Madrid

One of the most famous paintings in Museo Thyssen-
Bornemisza is this 1488 portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni
by Domenico Ghirlandaio.

Inside Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

In case you missed it, you can read my post about Madrid's beautiful Parque del Buen Retiro here.

Madrid's Park of the Pleasant Retreat: El Retiro

Unusual tree in Madrid's Parque del Retiro

The Gardens of El Buen Retiro, or El Retiro, have a royal history. El Buen Retiro means "the park of the pleasant retreat," and I could not agree more. On our recent trip to Madrid — our first — we have a generous amount of time to spend in Retiro as mi suegra (mother-in-law) is playing in a Pickleball tournament at the park, and Ken and I have time to pass between matches.

The path near Puerta del Ángel Caído in Parque del Retiro

Here's a brief timeline of El Retiro:

• 17th century: The Gardens of El Buen Retiro are created by order of Felipe IV as a leisure estate for the royalty of the House of Austria.
• 18th and 19th centuries: Under the reigns of the House of Bourbon, lots of trees are planted, and a Royal Zoo, Royal Jetty and the Jardin de los Caprichos (king's private garden) are created. During the Spanish War of Independence, the park suffers serious damage when it is used as a fortress and quarters by French soldiers. Later, Retiro is restored, and in 1868, the park becomes city property.
• 20th century: El Retiro is used as a venue for several international expos. The Palacio de Cristal and the Palicio de Velázquez are built for the exhibitions and remain standing today. The Cecilio Rodriquez Gardens are incorporated into the park, and the Chopera Sports Center is built.
• 21st century: I finally visit Madrid and spend time in El Buen Retiro.

According to the Go Madrid website, the 19th century Palacio de Velázquez was originally built for a national exhibition "to celebrate the mining, metallurgy, ceramics, glass-making and mineral water industries. When the exhibition was over, the government decided to maintain the pavilion, which it intended to use as a museum for overseas exhibits. Nowadays, it is owned by the Ministry of Culture, and is used for exhibitions organised by the Museo Reina Sofia."

Palicio de Velázquez in Madrid's Parque del Retiro

Mural on exterior of Palicio de Velázquez in
Parque del Retiro

The beautiful Palacio de Cristal was built in 1887 to exhibit flora and fauna from the Philippines. The architect was Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, who also designed Palicio de Velázquez. Palacio de Cristal has a London counterpart, built 36 years before.

Palacio de Cristal in Madrid's Parque del Retiro

Palacio de Cristal in Parque del Retiro

Detail of the Egyptian fountain in Parque del Retiro

The Great Lake and monument to Alfonso XII in Parque del Retiro

Statue of Berengaria, Queen of Castille, along Paseo de la
Argentina, or Statues Walk, in Parque del Retiro

Black swans on the banks of one of several lakes in Parque del Retiro

El Real Jardín Botánico de Madrid or Royal Botanical Garden is located on the southern end of Retiro park. Its 20 acres contain roughly 30,000 plants and flowers and 1,500 trees from five continents. Our visit isn't in the most colorful of seasons, as many of the flowers have passed their prime, but we savor a quiet hour within the garden walls.

A sculpture in Madrid's Royal Botanical Garden

Water garden in Madrid's Royal Botanical Garden

Early autumn color in Madrid's Royal
Botanical Garden

Next time: I step out of the park and into the city streets of Madrid.