Tuesday, January 22, 2019

A little Lot and a little Corrèze

Ancient pottery is perched on a wall in Cavagnac.
A recent overnight stay on a friend's dairy farm in the Lot department, allows me to literally cross the road and explore some pretty villages in the Corrèze department.

The village of Turenne sits upon the Martel Causse, a limestone foundation.

La Collégiale Notre Dame-Saint Pantaléon in Turenne was built in the 17th century.

Perched on a hilltop and visible for miles around is Turenne, one of several Plus Beaux Villages de France in this area. Turenne (and the other villages I write about in this post) is about 100 km west of Périgueux and 20 km south of Brive-la-Gaillarde. We park at a free lot near the tourism office and opt to walk up the longer, less steep path to the top of the hill. Along the way, we come to the village church, Saint Pantaléon, and step inside to check out its ornate altar.

Saint Pantaléon in Turenne contains this gilded altarpiece.

We approach the Château de Turenne, from which the viscounts of Turenne
ruled from the Middle Ages to the 18th century.
Just a bit out of breath, we reach the château, which is open only on Sunday afternoons during the winter months (but every day from April through October).

We opt to take the steep path down from the château to Turenne's plaza.

We carefully take the steep lane back down to the central plaza, Place de l'Ancienne Halle. There are a few restaurants in Turenne, and several hotels. The charm continues across the street, where there are more amenities.

With a nice assortment of restaurants and accommodations,
Turenne welcomes visitors.


The upper part of the village of Cavagnac contains this pretty stone church.

After arriving at our destination, our kind hosts insist on taking on us on a little tour of the neighborhood. Our first stop is the tiny village of Cavagnac. We park at the church on the hill, poke around, and enjoy the views. I ask about the huge mansion behind an iron gate and am told that it's owned by a senior editor at Le Figaro Magazine.

This mansion in Cavagnac is rumored to belong to a journalist from Paris.
The wintry gray day does nothing to diminish the charm of Cavagnac and its
neighboring villages.
Collonges-la-Rouge is known for its distinctive red stone mansions. 

The most famous villages in this area is Collonges-la-Rouge, which I wrote about in May 2017. Tourists come here to admire the distinctive red stone buildings. On this chilly winter day there is a smattering of tourists, but in the high season, the narrow streets are packed.

La Siréne, or 'The Mermaid's House,' in Collonges-la-Rouge was built in the 16th century. 
The town's namesake red color comes from the iron oxide contained in the local sandstone. Collonges-la-Rouge was home to Charles Ceyrac, founder of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, so it is not surprising that this village was the first to earn this distinction. Another famous resident, the late actor Maurice Biraud, is honored in the summers with weekly open-air theatrical performances.

A stop at Château de la Rue offers us sweeping views across the northern edge
of the Massif Central region. 
Before heading back to the farm where the four-legged residents will soon be needing attention, we stop at a crossroad to admire the views from Château de la Rue, another private residence.

Christmas lights frame the barn door of this dairy in the Lot department.

After the kind of sleep one can only get in the countryside, we return home, laden with fresh milk, eggs, walnuts and sweet memories.

Pilgrims on their way to Rocamadour may be offered a
refreshment at this farmhouse on the northern edge of the
Lot department. 





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