Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Alsatian vineyards, quaint villages and a huge Germanic castle

Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg sits atop Stophanberch mountain in the
Alsace region of France.

We really lucked out weather-wise during our recent visit to the Strasbourg area. Even though we dodged most of the storms, I'm not taking any chances and pick the day with the best forecast for our trip to the Alsace wine country. Our first stop is Colmar, a small storybook city known for its half-timbered homes and Venice-like river.

The Lauch provides the river for 'Little Venice' in Colmar. 

A replica of the Statue of Liberty greets visitors coming to Colmar.
Liberty's sculptor Auguste Bartholdi was born here.

As we approach the city, we are greeted by a replica of the Statue of Liberty in the center of a roundabout. It is only later while exploring Colmar that I realize that this is the birthplace of Auguste Bartholdi, sculptor of the great symbol of freedom that sits in New York Harbor. (I imagine that Lady Liberty is crying more than a few tears these days.) Bartholdi's childhood home is a museum that contains models and designs for his public monuments, and a reconstructed layout of his Paris apartment.

Colmar-born Auguste Bartholdi created this bronze statute,
Les Grandes Soutiens du Monde, in 1902.

We're amused by the 105 grotesque masks that adorn La Maison des Têtes
in Colmar.

Colmar's Pfister House, built in 1575, was once the home of
bourgeois milliner Louis Scherer who made his fortune in
silver.

Colmar has a large pedestrianized zone that includes the Tanners' and Fishmongers' districts and "Little Venice."  It is a picture-perfect day for our visit, and the colors are dazzling, but there are busloads of tourists too. To keep up our stamina, we take a cheese-covered-soft-pretzel break then take out the guidebook and plan our next stop.

Ken stops to pose on a bridge across the Lauch River in Colmar.

I have a list of three villages that we've been told we "must visit," and we end up stopping only in one. As stunning as these little wine country villages are, by the time we have eaten lunch in Riquewihr, we have nearly overdosed on "quaint."

This colorful timbered café in Riquewihr entices us to stop for a beer.

We have no regrets, however, about spending several hours in Riquewihr, the self-proclaimed "gem of the vineyards." Designated one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, Riquewihr is surrounded with vineyards planted in the Vosges foothills. These grapes have been producing Schoenenbourg and Sporen wines since the Middle Ages.

Riquewihr's Dolder, built in 1291, was town's watchtower
and upper gate.

The timbered buildings in Riquewihr are adorned with intricate carvings.

A walk up Rue du General de Gaulle ends at La Porte Haute (the upper gate). Along the way, we pass dozens of pretty storefronts and restaurants. We take note of the timber frame systems and the trade emblems above the doors.

Trade emblems like this are etched above doorways in Colmar.

Since we started our day early, we've avoided most of the crowds and have plenty of time for our next stop: Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg, the most popular attraction in the region.


Originally a Hapsburg property, Château de Haut-Koenigsbourg was given to
France in 1919 under the Treaty of Versailles. 

The temperature drops just a few degrees as we approach Château de Haut-Koenigsbourg. This massive pink sandstone castle was built to be a symbol of Germanic power. Abandoned for more than 200 years, the castle was restored in the early 20th century. Today it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Alsace region.

Visitors enter Château de Haut-Koenigsbourg through this gate.
Assailants in the Middle Ages had to pass through the tower
in order to get inside.

The enormous Château de Haut-Koenigsbourg was constructed of pink sandstone
between the 12th and 15th centuries.

Our self-guided tour takes us through the courtyard, which was fortified to cut off intruders. A sink and two fireplaces are still standing in the castle's kitchen. We climb to the second floor, where we find the Lorraine bedchamber in the west wing and connecting rooms in the south wing. Then we head down a spiral staircase to the first floor with its chapel, hunting trophy room and arms room.

Château de Haut-Koenigsbourg has a lot of steps, and we are pretty tired by the time we reach the outer walls. We've enjoyed our day, but we are ready to return to our cozy Strasbourg apartment that has chilled wine and beer in the frige. Next up on Away to Live: two surprising stops on our homeward journey.

If you go

You can find more information about these places on the following websites:
Colmar Alsace Tourisme
Pays de Ribeauvillé & Riquewihr
Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg






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