Our Corrèze visit starts in Uzerche

Uzerche is called La Perle du Limousin, the region's pearl.

 

Our recent trip in search of colorful fall foliage brings us to Uzerche, a beautiful village known as La Perle du Limousin and has the designation as one of France's 100 Most Beautiful Detours. We arrive late morning and have time to explore before lunch. Once parked, we head to the historical town center through Porte Bécharie, the only remaining gate of the original nine within the town's ancient defensive walls. 

Porte Bécherie in Uzerche was built in the 14th century.

Here we spot Uzerche's coat of arms featuring two bulls and three lilies; the design honors the town's successful resistance of a seven-year siege by Saracens in the 8th century. 

This coat of arms honors the town that resisted many sieges. Uzerche
became known as Uzerche-la-Pucelle, the maiden (or virgin) that
was never taken.

After the siege, Pepin le Bref, King of the Francs, had Uzerche fortified and built 18 towers. Two hundred years later, a powerful Benedictine Abbey overseeing 50 churches and scores of monks was established here. In the 14th century, nobles built great mansions. A saying of this era was, "He who has a house in Uzerche has a castle in Limousin."

Abbaitiale Saint-Pierre contains a crypt consecrated in 1097.  

Standing in Uzerche's central square is the Romanesque church Abbatiale Saint-Pierre, or Abbey of Saint Peter. Constructed between the 11th and 12th centuries, the church contains a crypt consecrated in 1097. It has a striking gabled bell tower and three fortification towers. 

This stained-glass window is located inside Abbey
Saint Peter in Uzerche.

An eagle graces the alter of Uzerche's Abbey Saint Peter.

As we start our walk, we look at this view of the Vézère from the Pont Turgot.

After lunch we opt for a walk along the Vézère River which gives us more lovely views of Uzerche. From here, we can see the stunning Hôtel des Joyet de Maubec, now a hotel and gourmet restaurant where we'll be having dinner tomorrow. On the right bank, a revitalized art district has taken over the old industrial area.

Seen from across the Vézère, Hôtel des Joyet de Maubec
was built in the 17th-18th century. 

The hills of Puy de la Monédière are covered in heather in late summer.

We are up early, as usual and decide to take our chances that the morning mist will lift by the time we arrive at Puy de la Monédière. Vast views of the Massif Central can be seen from this peak whose name means "Mountains of the Day." We don't linger here long as we have come across a French military training exercise. Although the soldiers seen fine with us checking out the view, we're intimidated by some big weapons and decide to head to our next destination, Clédat, an abandoned village turned open-air museum.

The chapel located in Clédat was restored in the early 2000s.

Clédat was a pilgrimage stop dating back to the 12th century. The remote village, located at the foothills of the Massif Central, was prosperous until the 17th century, when better traffic routes came into existence. It remained notable for its healing waters and its annual Sainte-Magdeleine celebrations. During World War II, 25 members of the French Resistance hid here but were discovered by the Nazis. Those who didn't flee were executed. With no running water or electricity, the village was abandoned in the 1960s and was nearly forgotten until a historical preservation group restored the chapel and some of the buildings. 

A few buildings, some with thatched roofs, remain in Clédat,
a village that was abandoned in the 1960s.

Today, Clédat is a quaint open-air museum containing a display of ancient agricultural tools and beautiful stone sculptures by Michel Kirsch.The village also hosts a popular celebration each July  

Stone sculptures by Michel Kirsch are scattered
in the woods around Clédat.

A poem about an owl named Dorothée inspired
this stone sculpture in Clédat. 

Before I talk about our next stop in Treignac, indulge me this little rant. Sometimes Google Maps is great, but often when asked for walking directions, it provides only unhelpful instructions like, "head east toward Blvd. Victor Hugo." I don't have a built-in compass, and not every street has prominent signs. After parking in the village of Treignac, I want to stop in the Tourism Office. I know I am just a few dozen meters away, but I can't find it. Exasperated, and after a few false starts, we make our way to the historical part of town without a map or advice from the Tourism Office. 

A narrow streets winds down through Treignac to the Vézère River.

Treignac is a designated "Petite Cité de Caractère" for its remarkable architecture and heritage. It once contained a castle, which was destroyed duing the French Revolution. There are three churches located here as well as a 15th-century tower that we climb. Even today, pilgrims walking the Rocamadour route on the Santiago de Compostela, stop here for the night.

The village of Treignac is quiet on the day of our visit.

A climb to the top of the 15th-century tower in Treignac
gives us this pretty view.

I have enjoyed every visit to the Corrèze. Although we were a little early this year to see colorful autumn leaves, the Massif Central remains one of my favorite regions in France.

Versailles à vélo

The mill is located in the charming Queen's Hamlet at Versailles.

Years ago, on my first trip to France, my sister and I visited the Château de Versailles. The grounds here are enormous, and it's a daunting task to explore the massive grounds on foot. I've returned to Paris many times over the years, but never in the right season to tackle Versailles by bike. This time, it would be different. Once my husband and I decide to take a last-minute trip to Paris, I quickly signed up for a Versailles tour with Blue Fox Travel, the same company that 11 years ago took us on a terrific nighttime bike tour of Paris. 

We arrive at Gare Saint-Lazere early enough to grab a pastry and coffee before joining our guide. After meeting the other members of our group, which include two  families and a few other couples, we're given our tickets and board the train to Versailles, about a half-hour away. After a short walk from the station to the market area, we're given a tour of some of the market halls and offered samples of some of French delicacies. We're then given time to wander on our own and pick up food for a picnic lunch, which we'll enjoy later. 

The market in Versailles is our first stop on our tour.

We regroup and head off to collect our bikes and receive some safety instructions. Helmets are provided for the kids and anyone else who wants them. The bikes have paniers to stow our lunches and jackets, as well as ponchos in case it rains. No chance of that on this beautiful day, but the ponchos will come in handy later to sit on when we have our picnic.

Our bike tour of Versailles includes frequent stops for rest and little history lessons.

We ride through the grounds at an easy pace, stopping several times at notable (and shady) spots so our guide can give us some history lessons to improve our understanding of the French monarchy and the role Versailles has played. 

We're happy to be riding through Versailles and very happy it's time for lunch.

We stop for lunch at the far end of Grand Canal and have more than enough time to stretch out and chat with our fellow passengers. Our guide keeps things lively with an impromptu game of French pop culture trivia.  

The Cotelle Gallery at the Grand Trianon is lined by 24 paintings
depicting the Trianon grounds at Versailles. 

After lunch we head over to the two private homes on the grounds: the Grand and Petit Trianons. The Grand Trianon is a Baroque-style summer home/love nest built for Louis XIV in 1687. Its architect, Jules Hardouin-Mansart, described the Grand Trianon as "A little palace of pink marble and porphyry with marvelous gardens." 

This window at the Grand Trianon looks out on the vast
English gardens at Versailles.

In later years, this was a summer home to Marie Leszczynska, wife of Louis XV and daughter of King Stanislaw I of Poland. The palace was looted during the French Revolution, but it was later restored and used by Napoleon and his wife, the Empress Marie-Louise (Marie Antoinette's great niece). Charles DeGaulle again restored the building in 1963 to use it to host foreign dignitaries. 

The Petit Trianon's reception room contains wainscoting with intricate
sculpted moulding and a spectacular bronze light fixture commissioned
by Marie-Antoinette.

It's just a short ride to our next stop, the Petit Trianon. In 1758, Louis XV had been working on a decades-long gardening project, and decided that another little getaway palace was just what the garden needed. He commissioned the royal architect to design a Greek-style pavilion for he and his entourage. The Petit Trianon was completed in 1768. After Louix XV's death, Louis XVI gave the the palace to his wife Marie-Antoinette who redesigned and embellished the estate to her tastes. A hunded years later, the Petit Trianon became a museum dedicated to Marie-Antoinette.  

I glance back to see the Petit Trianon on my way to the Queen's Hamlet.

But my favorite part of the Château de Versailles grounds is the Queen's Hamlet, a short walk from Petit Trianon. This part of the gardens, contains 10 rustic-looking buildings set around a lake. To me this could be the ritzy part of the Shire. There's a farm here with enormous vegetables, a windmill. and even a lighthouse. Marie-Antoinette reserved three of the buildings for her personal use. Aside from the Queen, there were only a few residents of hamlet including her guard and a gardener, but no hobbits. 

Marlborough Tower at the Queen's Hamlet in Versailles was
named for a song that was popular at the time. 

Although I can't see over the sea of tourists' heads, I can look up
to admire the spectacular ceilings at the Palace of Versailles. 

It's on the far side of afternoon when we return our bikes and walk over to the Château of Versailles. Our guide tells us we can explore the palace on our own, take our time, and catch whatever train back to Paris that we want. I know a few of our fellow bikers call it a day at this point and make a beeline to the train station. We're bushed, but we're game to visit the Palace. 

Versailles's Hall of Mirrors contains 357 mirrors. Balls, receptions,
weddings, and diplomatic milestones have all taken place here.   

Just as I remember from my first visit here, the place is packed with people making it impossible to fully appreciate all that this palace contains. I insist that we stick it out at least until the Hall of Mirrors. This is the most famous room of the palace. The 73-meter-long hallway pays tribute to the political, economic, and artistic success of France. Most notably, this is where the Treaty of Versailles was signed at the end of World War I.

Château de Versailles is seen from the far end of the Grand Canal.

Despite our hours peddling around the Versailles grounds, we aren't able to see everything. I think the next time we visit, perhaps with our grandchildren, we'll rent one of those little electric golf cars. The entire grounds are free to visit so if you aren't visiting the palaces, you can explore at your leisure. 

For more information

Château de Versailles

Blue Fox Travel Paris and Versailles bike tours

Paris needn't break the bank

Some familiar Paris landmarks are seen across the Seine.

Even in a city as pricey as Paris, it's not hard to find lots of things to do that cost only the energy needed to get there. On our recent last-minute trip to France's capital (and most everyone's favorite city), we found plenty of free sites that we could walk to from our hotel in the Marais quartier. Don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with taking the metro, but the weather was fabulous during our stay and we both love to walk. By the end of the day, though, we are exhausted and can't muster the energy to explore Paris after dark. That's fine ... we're both early-to-bed-early-to-rise kind of people.

Place Vosges is the oldest planned square in Paris.

After our long trek from Gare Montparnasse to our hotel, we just drop our bags, catch our breath, and head to Place Vosges, the city's oldest planned square. If you were hanging out here before 1900, you would have called this beautiful square Place Royale. It's free to visit, but don't bring your dog. On this beautiful afternoon, there are lots of visitors lounging on the lawn and relaxing on benches. The plaza is surrounded by stately red brick buildings, one of which houses Maison Victor Hugo. 

A portrait of Victor Hugo by Alphonse Monchablon
is displayed at Maison Victor Hugo in Paris.

The writer lived here for 16 years between 1832 and 1848.  Hugo's apartment is located on the second floor (that's the third floor if you're American) and includes a half-dozen rooms filled with pieces that document his extraordinary life, both in Paris and when he was in exile in Guernsey. In addition to writing, Hugo is said to have had quite the flair for interior design. The museum is one of 14 museums owned by the City of Paris and thus is free of charge to visit, although there can be a charge for temporary exhibits.

The bed where Hugo died is displayed at Maison Victor Hugo in Paris.

Visitors to the Carnavalet Museum in Paris enter via this newly
designed introductory room.

The wonderful Carnavalet Museum is located just around the corner. I love this museum, filled to the brim with Paris history. Here, we explore Paris from prehistoric times, through the Middle Ages, the French Revolution, Napoleon's reign, and into the 21st century. There's so much to see at this free museum that it's no wonder I visit the Carnavalet nearly every time I'm in town.

The facade of the Lescot Pharmacy was the first storefront to be
acquired by the Carnavalet Museum in Paris.  

Paris's Carnavalet Museum takes visitors from
prehistoric times to today.

Josephine and Napoleon are one of France's most prominent power couples. 

A dignified Marie Antoinette is escorted from the Consiergerie to the
guillotine in this 1885 painting displayed at the Carnavalet Museum in Paris.

Pére-Lachaise cemetery in Paris contains an estimated 1 million graves.

About a half-hour walk from our hotel is the famed and massive (110 acres) cemetery Père-Lachaise. We're running out of steam during our visit, and the map on my phone is too small to read, but we stroll through the tree-lined avenues of the cemetery grounds, admiring the various tombs and gravestones. So many famous people are buried here including Frederic Chopin, Edith Piaf, Balzac, Colette, Proust, Jean de la Fontaine, Maria Callas, Oscar Wilde, and Jim Morrison. Père-Lachaise is not only an open-air museum, but it's also the largest park in Paris. It's free to visit, of course, but I'd recommend getting a printed map if you want to see the graves of anyone in particular. 

Crypts like this one stand along tree-lined avenues at
Pére-Lachaise cemetery in Paris,

The symbol of the 2024 Summer Olympics, the Paris Cauldron
makes a return visit to Tuileries Gardens in the summer. 

Our August 2025 visit coincides with the first return of the iconic Paris Olympic cauldron balloon, now officially called the Paris Cauldron. (Those Olympics folks are pretty strict with branding). After its debut at last summer's Olympic Games, the balloon was technically improved so it could withstand months on display, rather than the original 30 days. Located in the Tuileries Gardens near the Louvre, the balloon re-launched on June 21, the day Fête de la Musique is celebrated here. Each evening (weather permitting) it rises into the air providing a stunning reminder of the city's spirit of the Games. After its three-month stay, the cauldron will be put away again. But there are plans for at least the next two years to bring the Paris Cauldron back between June 21 and Sept. 14. 

The Paris Cauldron is anchored on the site where
French inventor Jacques Charles took his first
gas balloon flight in 1783. 

You never know what you'll see while walking through Paris. From "Joanie on a Pony" to a volleyball match with Paris firefighters, there's so much to take in. 

This gilded bronze statue of Joan of Arc, affectionately known as
'Joanie on a Pony' is located at Place des Pyramids in Paris.

We're fortunate to catch a pompiérs volleyball tournament
at Hôtel de Ville in Paris.

Keep your eyes open for tromp d'œil murals while
strolling in Paris.

Each summer Paris creates a beach along the Seine.

But, even the most intrepid of us need a break, so it's perfect that the Paris Plages are open during our visit here. Located along the Seine, there are comfortable sling-back chairs to lounge upon and umbrellas for shade. After a particularly long morning of walking, we pick up some sandwiches and drinks, find ourselves a couple of nice beach chairs and, for a few hours, watch the world, and about a thousand joggers, go by. Les doux moments de Paris.

The Paris plage is the perfect place to pause and enjoy the day.

Visit these sites for more information about:

Maison Victor Hugo

Musée Histoire de Paris Carnavalet

Père-Lachaise Cemetery

The Paris Cauldron

A whole lot of Joanie going on in Orléans

This fountain is located in Orléans, one of France's oldest cities.

Our recent trip to Orléans included some delightful surprises including a stop along the way where we had a great lunch and met a friendly woman at a quaint little museum filled with American memorabilia from the 1950s. Our primary destination revealed Joan of Arc around nearly every corner, as well as a fantastic park and a poignant museum created to remember the horrors of WWII.

The U.S. Museum in Châteauroux commemorates the era
when a  NATO base was located here.

We've pinpointed the city of Châteauroux as our lunch stop on our way to Orléans in north-central France. Once we've hooked up at the charging station (it's available and working!) we head to the city center. On our way we snag the last available table at a small boutique hotel dining room and have a delicious lunch. Then it's on to the Tourism Office, where a number of strolls are suggested. Because we don't have a lot of time, we decide to head to the US Museum. Now somewhat derided by residents of Châteauroux, this small museum turns out to be a charming remembrance of the years 1951-1967. This is when the city was full of American military personnel and their families who were stationed at the NATO base here. 

The Air Force serviceman who is represented at the U.S. Museum in
Châteauroux visited the museum decades after the NATA base here closed. 

Small items spark memories at the U.S. Museum in Châteauroux.

Our short visit is surprisingly enjoyable: So many of the household items and toys are things we remember having when we were kids. We strike up a conversation with a staff member who shares her own memories of the American friends she had as a child. (We try unsuccessfully to meet up with one of her friends in Reno when we are there the following week.) 

Jeanne d'Arc on horseback is the centerpiece of Place du Martroi in Orléans. 

According to Wikipedia, there are two statues of Jeanne d'Arc in Orléans, but it seems that tributes to the Maid of Orléans are everywhere. The first known monument to Jeanne d'Arc was erected in this city in 1456. The legendary national savior/warrior/martyr is still honored in Orléans, the site of a victory led by the 17-year-old Jeanne d'Arc that turned the tide in the Hundred Years' War between France and England. Her actual stay in Orléans was only 10 days, but everywhere she slept, ate, or worshipped is commemorated here.

Exhibits about The Maid of Orléans are presented at Maison Jeanne d'Arc,
which wasn't actually her home.

This painting and sculpture are displayed at Hôtel Groslot in Orléans.

This painting at Hôtel Groslot in Orléans originally depicted
someone else, and later it was altered to honor Jeanne d'Arc.

Artist Dany Dufour's take on The Maid of Orléans is exhibited at Hôtel Groslot.

Rue Jeanne d'Arc leads to Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans. 

The Gothic-style Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans has sustained
damages from wars several times since its completion in 1829.

In addition to Jeanne d'Arc, Orléans is known for its stunning Sainte-Croix Cathédrale. The gothic-style cathedral took 542 years to build and contains relics from the 7th century. We're delighted to discover that the building is free to visit. (This isn't always the case, and I'm reluctant to pay admission to a church.) Both the exterior and interior of the cathedral are beautiful. 

These gargoyles keep watch at Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans.

The length of Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans is just
one meter shorter than that of Notre-Dame in Paris.

New stained-glass windows at Sainte-Croix Cathédrale in Orléans
were installed during renovations at the end of the 20th century.

A statue of Jeanne d'Arc stands at the entrance to Hôtel Groslot in Orléans.

The following day, we visit Hôtel Groslot, another free site. Originally a private residence built by lawyer and bailiff Jacques Groslot between 1530 and 1550, the building became Orléans' city hall during the French Revolution. It's a beautiful Renaissance building full of paintings and tapestries showcasing the exquisite taste of its original owner. And yes, there are a few tributes to Jeanne d'Arc here too. 

Maison Morlon along Quai Barentin is a rare example of Art Nouveau in Orléans.

Orléans is located along the Loire River, and one afternoon between rain showers we take a stroll and spot one of the few buildings here in the Art Nouveau style. A bike tour of other examples is suggested by the Val de Loire tourism office. 

A château is seen from the rose garden in Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.  

We've dedicated a half day to visit Parc Floral de la Source, which has the deserved designation as "Jardin Remarquable." The park contains acres and acres of gardens known for their diverse species and plant collections. I especially enjoy the Butterfly House, which, along with an exotic bird collection, a herd of Chilean Flaminoes and a miniature farm, comprise the fauna portion of the park. We're here the right time of year to enjoy the Rose Garden, but are a bit too late for the Iris Garden. 

Sculptures are scattered among the gardens in Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.

Butterflies live among the banana and papaya trees, vanilla and ficus plants,
hibiscus flowers and orchids at Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.

This pair of butterflies at Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans seem to be chatting.

Several exotic bird habitats are located at Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.

Chilean Flamingoes are the emblematic bird of Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans.

Parc Floral de la Source in Orléans is constantly being developed
and renewed for biodiversity reasons.

Aline (1939-1942), the symbol of the atrocities that occurred in
the internment camps in the Loriet region, is memorialized at the
Cercil Vel d'Hiv Children's Memorial Museum in Orléans

This area of France didn't escape the atrocities of World War II. We've chosen our last day in Orléans to visit the Cercil Vel d'Hiv Children's Memorial Museum, a history and remembrance center that traces the history of the internment camps in the Loiret region. Thousands of Jews and others were detained at the camps of Beaune-la-Rolande, Pithiviers, and Jargeau before being sent to death camps in Poland. Most notable were the 4,000 children along with their mothers who were arrested by French police at the Vel d'Hiv roundup in Paris in July 1942. The Memorial chose one child named Aline to be its symbol. The memorial is a sobering and important remembrance of these tragedies.

For more information

US Museum, Chateauroux

Parc Floral de la Source

Cercil Musée Mémorial des Enfants du Vel d'Hiv