Our Corrèze visit starts in Uzerche

Uzerche is called La Perle du Limousin, the region's pearl.

 

Our recent trip in search of colorful fall foliage brings us to Uzerche, a beautiful village known as La Perle du Limousin and has the designation as one of France's 100 Most Beautiful Detours. We arrive late morning and have time to explore before lunch. Once parked, we head to the historical town center through Porte Bécharie, the only remaining gate of the original nine within the town's ancient defensive walls. 

Porte Bécherie in Uzerche was built in the 14th century.

Here we spot Uzerche's coat of arms featuring two bulls and three lilies; the design honors the town's successful resistance of a seven-year siege by Saracens in the 8th century. 

This coat of arms honors the town that resisted many sieges. Uzerche
became known as Uzerche-la-Pucelle, the maiden (or virgin) that
was never taken.

After the siege, Pepin le Bref, King of the Francs, had Uzerche fortified and built 18 towers. Two hundred years later, a powerful Benedictine Abbey overseeing 50 churches and scores of monks was established here. In the 14th century, nobles built great mansions. A saying of this era was, "He who has a house in Uzerche has a castle in Limousin."

Abbaitiale Saint-Pierre contains a crypt consecrated in 1097.  

Standing in Uzerche's central square is the Romanesque church Abbatiale Saint-Pierre, or Abbey of Saint Peter. Constructed between the 11th and 12th centuries, the church contains a crypt consecrated in 1097. It has a striking gabled bell tower and three fortification towers. 

This stained-glass window is located inside Abbey
Saint Peter in Uzerche.

An eagle graces the alter of Uzerche's Abbey Saint Peter.

As we start our walk, we look at this view of the Vézère from the Pont Turgot.

After lunch we opt for a walk along the Vézère River which gives us more lovely views of Uzerche. From here, we can see the stunning Hôtel des Joyet de Maubec, now a hotel and gourmet restaurant where we'll be having dinner tomorrow. On the right bank, a revitalized art district has taken over the old industrial area.

Seen from across the Vézère, Hôtel des Joyet de Maubec
was built in the 17th-18th century. 

The hills of Puy de la Monédière are covered in heather in late summer.

We are up early, as usual and decide to take our chances that the morning mist will lift by the time we arrive at Puy de la Monédière. Vast views of the Massif Central can be seen from this peak whose name means "Mountains of the Day." We don't linger here long as we have come across a French military training exercise. Although the soldiers seen fine with us checking out the view, we're intimidated by some big weapons and decide to head to our next destination, Clédat, an abandoned village turned open-air museum.

The chapel located in Clédat was restored in the early 2000s.

Clédat was a pilgrimage stop dating back to the 12th century. The remote village, located at the foothills of the Massif Central, was prosperous until the 17th century, when better traffic routes came into existence. It remained notable for its healing waters and its annual Sainte-Magdeleine celebrations. During World War II, 25 members of the French Resistance hid here but were discovered by the Nazis. Those who didn't flee were executed. With no running water or electricity, the village was abandoned in the 1960s and was nearly forgotten until a historical preservation group restored the chapel and some of the buildings. 

A few buildings, some with thatched roofs, remain in Clédat,
a village that was abandoned in the 1960s.

Today, Clédat is a quaint open-air museum containing a display of ancient agricultural tools and beautiful stone sculptures by Michel Kirsch.The village also hosts a popular celebration each July  

Stone sculptures by Michel Kirsch are scattered
in the woods around Clédat.

A poem about an owl named Dorothée inspired
this stone sculpture in Clédat. 

Before I talk about our next stop in Treignac, indulge me this little rant. Sometimes Google Maps is great, but often when asked for walking directions, it provides only unhelpful instructions like, "head east toward Blvd. Victor Hugo." I don't have a built-in compass, and not every street has prominent signs. After parking in the village of Treignac, I want to stop in the Tourism Office. I know I am just a few dozen meters away, but I can't find it. Exasperated, and after a few false starts, we make our way to the historical part of town without a map or advice from the Tourism Office. 

A narrow streets winds down through Treignac to the Vézère River.

Treignac is a designated "Petite Cité de Caractère" for its remarkable architecture and heritage. It once contained a castle, which was destroyed duing the French Revolution. There are three churches located here as well as a 15th-century tower that we climb. Even today, pilgrims walking the Rocamadour route on the Santiago de Compostela, stop here for the night.

The village of Treignac is quiet on the day of our visit.

A climb to the top of the 15th-century tower in Treignac
gives us this pretty view.

I have enjoyed every visit to the Corrèze. Although we were a little early this year to see colorful autumn leaves, the Massif Central remains one of my favorite regions in France.